Crag Number: 1

Culdaff - Dunmore Head

Photo of crag from the photo gallery
Dunmore Head (Main Crag) Topo - See Online Climbing Guide. A Marker is Route 26 (SRS Slab - V Diff)

Directions:

The most popular crag in Inishowen, if not Donegal, owing to its convenience and the huge concentration of routes at all grades, some of which are excellent.


In the centre of Culdaff village there is a small village green and Post Office where the Coastal Scenic Road joins the main Moville/ Culdaff Road. Follow this coastal road east from Culdaff village for approx. 3km.

Ample parking can be had at the car park opposite the caravan park, or (for a few cars only)in a small parking space above the bend in the road opposite the crag. Take care not to block access to house or the road/track to the small port below.

OS Grid Reference: C550498

Click here to view location in Google Maps

The white slab at the right hand of Main Crag, right of alcove.
IP1/01 Toenails
S 4a
Length: 12m
Alan Tees, Bill Magowan 30/03/10
Start about a metre left of the big central crack of "Caratra Crack" and move leftwards following a thin crackline, which leads to a bigger crack towards the top.  Belay in niche
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IP1/02 Tweezers
S 4a
Length: 12m
Alan Tees, Bill Magowan 30/03/10
Start as for "Toenails" but continue straight up in a line between "Caratra Crack" and "Toenails"  Nice climbing on small holds.
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IP1/03 Caratra Crack
VD 3c
Length: 14m
Alan Tees, Bill Magowan 30/03/10
This takes the wide crackline in the centre of the slab, and just left of "Dusty Mayday"
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IP1/04 Dusty Mayday
VD
Length: 14m
S McDonald, B Patton
Start: The white slab left of obvious alcove on the left-hand side of the Middle Crag. The route goes up the centre of the white stab.
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IP1/05 OXO in October
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Photo of route S -
Length: 15m
B McDermott, P McDermott
Start: 1 m right of Dusty Mayday. Takes the right edge of the white slab.
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Next climbs are in alcove to right.
IP1/06 The Wurlitzer
Photo of route E2 6a
Length: 10m
P Dunlop, R Dunlop (Spring 1991)
The big roof at the back of the alcove left of Calamity Collins. Climb up the slab to roof, move out to a hovering block left of the roof crack (takes F1.5 + F2). Move excitingly up to a waltzing block on the lip, and up into a position of contemplation above the roof. Continue to the top passing various holds on the way.
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IP1/07 Millar's Mills Ltd., 07448133
Photo of route HVS 5b
Length: 10m
N Grimes, A Mlllar (12/91)
Suppliers of high-quality agri-chemicals. Climb steeply into and up the left-hand groove to the right of the roof (F0.5 or F1 protect the crux bulge). Ireland's first sponsored rock-climb, and the start of a new era of professionalism in the sport.
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IP1/08 Zipper
VS 5b
Length: 10m
P Dunlop, R Dunlop (3/10/87)
The groove right of Millar's Mills and left of Calamity Collins (F0.5/F1 protects crux).
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IP1/09 Calamity Collins
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Photo of route VS 5a
Length: 14m
B McDermott, P Flood
In the right hand corner of the alcove climb up to gain crack and continue up into slightly overhanging corner to finish knackered!
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IP1/10 Ten CC
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Photo of route E1 5b
Length: 15m
P Dunlop, R Dunlop (23/8/87)
Excellent varied climbing with an exposed finish. Start in short corner about 1m right of Calamity Collins. Thrutch up this to the small overhang. Move round left here to the thin crack in the wall, which is climbed with the aid of thin flakes and without the aid of Calamity Collins. Finish using the crack and arete to the top, with space being the most obvious thing between your legs!
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On right of alcove and left of Main Slab is a v-groove.
IP1/11 Peapob
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Photo of route VS 4b
Length: 18m
B McDermott, J Rotherham
This route takes the obvious chute 3m right of the alcove, moving out left and climbing the left of the upper cracks. Low in the grade.
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IP1/12 Bean Bob
VS 4c
Length: 18m
T.McDaid, J.Rotherham.
As for Peapob but taking the right-hand crack at the top.
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Now your'e at the left end of the steep and beautiful slab.
IP1/13 Fluid Inclusions
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HVS 5a
Length: 18m
A. Millar, G. Millar(9/86)
Splendid airy climbing up left arete of Main Slab. Start as for Bean Bob, climb arete (good F1.5 at half height). Delicately step right onto the slab below the big overhang (large friends). Climb up, then step back left for difficult move up into small finishing groove.
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IP1/14 Thank You and Goodbye
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Photo of route E3 6a
Length: 18m
N Grimes, B Dunlop, J Hutton (79/10/90)
Bold then strenuous climbing up the slab and overhang right of Fluid Inclusion's finish. Start as for Wall Rock Alterations. Pull up onto the slab on left, over first small roof (F7.5 on the left here). Climb boldly and directly up through the two overlaps to below the big overhang (Big friends); climb it to a tiny groove. Finish up this. With a move somewhat akin to riding a donkey, this is an excellent eliminate.
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IP1/15 Wall Rock Alterations
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Photo of route E1 5b
Length: 20m
A Millar, G Millar (9/86)
Offering delicate and open climbing with an exposed feel.  Start at the little groove left of Shining Cossacks , climb up the groove to a bulge and excellent protection. Step up left here onto the slab and move daintily away from the protection. Go leftwards as far as the final groove of Fluid Inclusions (big friends). Finish up Fluid Inclusions. This route, along with the previous two, unfortunately suffers from hairy growth in parts.
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IP1/16 Eddie Springsteen
E2 6a
Length: 18m
E Cooper, N Grimes (Spring 1991)

An alternative finish to some of the routes hereabouts.

Go over the roof into the obvious rightward-slanting groove on the right-hand side of Main Face's overhang, friend-protected.


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IP1/17 Texas Badman
E1 5b
Length: 18m
A Millar, N Grimes (1988)
Follow Wall Rock Alterations to the delicate step up onto the slab. Follow the little arete up and rightwards to a junction with Shining Cossacks and finish up this. Nice positions, but little new climbing.
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IP1/18 Shiny Cossacks
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Photo of route HVS 5a
Length: 22m
P Neary, I. Ryan
Start: 4m right of Bean Bob, under a slab, 1 m to the left of an overhanging V groove. Make an awkward move to gain slab. Climb diagonally leftwards to knob and then rightwards to brown patch beneath overhang. Exit to the right of the overhang and continue as for Diversion.
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IP1/19 Ray's Fish and Chips
S 4a
Length: 18m
R Dunlop (1989)
Climb through the deep v-slot left of Diversion to a flat quartzy hold,and continue up to join Diversion to finish.
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IP1/20 Fishy business
VS 4c
Length: 16m
P.Cooper 21/06/03
Step up onto hanging slab on r.hand side of 'Ray's fish n chips' to quartz overlap, continue directly up centre of slab, through diversion and up centre of above slab with a step right onto short final slab.
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IP1/21 Diversion
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Photo of route HS 4b
Length: 20m
J Rotherham, M Patton
Start: 1m right of the overhanging V groove is bottomless chimney. Climb bottomless chimney to gain ledge and, at mid height, continue out leftwards following crack on fine jug handles past nest to finish.
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IP1/22 Tina's Crack
Photo of route HS -
Length: 17m
J Rotherham, M Patton
Start: 1m right of Diversion. Climb crack using bridging and some jamming to gain large ledge at mid-height. Continue directly up over overhangs and ledges to top.
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IP1/23 Master of Puppets
HVS 5b
Length: 15m
P Dunlop,R Dunlop, N Mooney
The roof right of Tina's Crack and left of Grecian Gift. Up crack to ledge, up slab to thin traverse right under roof before feeling for the weakness and pulling over the lip onto the slab.
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IP1/24 Grecian Gift
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Photo of route VS 4c
Length: 15m
J Rotherham, B McDermott

2m right of Tina's Crack and to the left of the detached block is a steep right-ward trending crackline with great moves and stretchy finish.

The arete to the right has been soloed by 'the Dunlops' at about E5 6b.


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The right hand end of the Main Face now steps back forming a corner for Orange Blossom.
IP1/25 Orange Blossom
Photo of route HS 4b
Length: 15m
M Buchanan, D Buchanan

2m Right of Grecian Gift. Takes the obvious corner crack to the top (orange coloured rock on left hand side).

The face on right is a delight at HVS 5a - without holds or gear in O.B.


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IP1/26 Barbara's Baby
Photo of route S 4a
Length: 13m
B McDermott
1 m right of Orange Blossom, climb chimney on right of slab, stepping left onto slab higher up.
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IP1/27 Cheatin' Bitch
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Photo of route S 3c
Length: 13m
J Rotherham, G Hamilton (12/81)
Start: 2m right of Barbara's Baby, on the left-hand - side of the gully. Handjam and layback up deep crack into bay above. Continue up, and exit left of slab.
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IP1/42 Brexit Bap
VD 3c
Length: 25m
Alan Tees, Ronan Doherty 4/04/19
Climb left edge of SRS Slab passing big jammed block onto platform. Climb left hand corner easily (just right of line of Cheatin Bitch) and swing out right, onto the wall on good holds, to exit onto ledge.  Thread belay at the back of cave.
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The large slab.
IP1/28 Chockstone Gully
D -
Length: 14m
B McDermott
Follows the obvious large gully at the centre of The Middle Crag, with a large chockstone at mid-height.
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The next climbs start to right of SRS Slab, starts are in small gully behind warm-up boulder.
IP1/29 S.R.S. Slab
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Photo of route D -
Length: 15m
B McDermott, M McDermott
Goes up the centre of the moderately angled white slab immediately right of Chockstone Gully. Standard route for beginners.
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IP1/30 Belfast Blitz Boys
Photo of route VD -
Length: 13m
P Grant
Starts in a bottomless V-shaped chimney about 1 m right of S.R.S. Slab and goes up the edge at the top.
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IP1/31 Tetley Mild
VS 5a
Length: 11m
P. Cooper and M.McGinty 18/09/02
The vague arete on right of Belfast Blitz Boys. Exposed climbing direct to horizontal crack, some protection in v-groove 1m right. Finish above. Short and satisfying.
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IP1/32 AWOL
S 4b
Length: 15m
Peter Cooper, Spring 1999.
Ascend initial corner of Absent friends, use horizontal holds on r.hand slab to gain arete; finish on Just a pleasant saunter up a nice line! Was done on first visit to Dunmore, solo
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IP1/33 Absent Friends
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Photo of route VD
Length: 15m
B McDermott, M McDermott
Takes the obvious large cleft/chimney 3m right of Belfast Blitz Boys. Numerous variations.
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IP1/34 Absent Friends Five
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Photo of route HS 4b
Length: 15m
B Patton, P Grant
In a small corner/recess above and right warm-up boulder and left of Bluebelle. Climb up to horizontal crack, then left go left to crack by arete. High stretch for thank God hold, follow edge to top.
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IP1/35 Bluebelle
D
Length: 12m
A Tees (2000)
 The clean corner with crack.
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IP1/36 Bird's nest bulge
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Photo of route S 4a
Length: 12m
B.McDermott,B.Patton
Start part way up Bluebelle to climb cracks in bulging wall on left, follow these to gain vertical finishing crack in headwall above. Some superb moves for grade.
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IP1/37 S.O.S.
D -
Length: 12m
F Ferry, M McDermott (80)
Left-most route on slab right of 'Bluebelle' corner.
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IP1/38 Sharp Practise
VD
Length: 12m
A Tees, R Smith (15/5/83)
This takes the edge of the wall right of Bluebelle and X Route.  Start in an alcove
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IP1/39 X Route
VD
Length: 12m
B McDermott, G Ellis (80)
Start as for Bluebelle and climb the wall  on it's right.
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IP1/40 Coca-Cola
D -
Length: 12m
G Ellis, M McDermot (80)
This is the furthest right of four routes on the slab.
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IP1/41 Ivy League
S 4a
Length: 10m
Trevor Hartley and Alfie Conn 30/3/14
Just right of the arete is an overhung recess. Start in this and climb up onto the slab on the right. Trend first up and right and then left by a small ledge. Finish by getting to the top.Interesting move on the slab. 
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