Crag Number: 153

Cruit Island - Far West Buttress

Photo of crag from the photo gallery
Far West Buttress, Cruit. - A/.Buoyish Antics? B/.The Fan Man. C/. Cruit Crack. D/.Uaigneas. E/. St. Daniel en Cruit. F/.Average Contents. G/.Less Than Average Contents.H/.Clann Crack. J/.Trident

Directions: From The Albatross Zawn follow the coastal path South West for Approx. 200m. The Far West Buttress is the steep slab of excellent North West facing rock with a convienient cave on the high water mark in the centre of the slab.

OS Grid Reference: B729207

Click here to view location in Google Maps
Cruit/1 Splits
Photo of route VD -
Length: 15m
P Conroy, G Parle (3/8/85)
Far West Buttress GR. 728206 200m further west, just left of a cave. Up a rib on the left of the buttress proper. Step awkwardly onto the headwall and on up to the top
More Details
Cruit/2 High Road
*
S 4a
Length: 20m
I. Miller , C. Gleeson 18/08/08
Climb "Splits" to half height, stretch across to main wall on your right to gain a deep right trending crack. Follow the crack steeply to summit.
More Details
Cruit/3 Low Road
*
VS 5a
Length: 20m
I. Miller, C. Gleeson 18/08/09
Climb "Splits" for a few meters and make an airy wee move rightwards to gain the jugs immediately above the roof below. Traverse right just above the roof on superb rock and jugs. Follow the natural fault line to summit. Excellent exposure!
More Details
Cruit/4 First Blood
*
Photo of route VS 5a
Length: 20m
I Miller, K Mcgee 12/09/05
At the back of the overhung recess, 8 mtr left of the "flop." Climb boldly upto the jammed white bouy to a good ledge. Continue steeply up right following the flakes and jugs to and excellent crux at half hieght to a further smaller ledge. Climb direct to summit on slightly poor rock.
More Details
Cruit/5 The Fan Man
S
Length: 23m
R Higgins, D Walsh (3/8/85)
Flop, then escape left out of the groove into the crack at 3m (crux). Follow the cracks near the arete to the top.
More Details
Cruit/6 Cruit Crack
* * *
Photo of route S
Length: 23m
D Walsh, R Higgins (3/8/85)
Flop over the chasm guarding the left-hand side of the buttress. Climb the groove, then the rightward-trending crack to the top.
More Details
Cruit/7 Fireslab
VS
Length: 26m
D Walsh, R Higgins (5/8/85)
Flop, then traverse high and diagonally right and up until forced to climb straight up (crux) to gain a fault and step right onto the arete. Follow this and the headwall to the top.
More Details
Cruit/8 Uaigneas
*
VS 4c
Length: 26m
D Walsh, R Higgins (3/8/85)
Flop, then traverse low and right to gain the foot of a prominent right-facing corner, go up this with increasing difficulty, on the right, to the top.
More Details
Cruit/9 St. Daniel of Cruit
Photo of route E1 5a
Length: 22m
P.Cooper, D.Millar & A.Tees 22/05/06
Same approach as for Average Contents. Traverse in to middle of slab and then proceed up to meet shallow crackline. Gear a bit thin and progressively harder to place. Touch of an eliminate line (no surprises there then!) try to keep your soul pure and avoid escaping left to Uiagneas or right.
More Details
Cruit/10 Average Contents
HS 4b
Length: 15m
R Higgins, D Walsh (3/8/85)
Approach the crag from the right, go down a ramp and traverse left to reach a cave low in the centre and belay. Escape dramatically up left over the overhang and then follow the crack directly above.
More Details
Cruit/11 Less Than Average Contents
*
VD
Length: 15m
R Higgins, D Walsh (3/8/85)
Escape right of the overhang and follow the overhang to the top slab.
More Details
Cruit/12 Clann Crack
VD
Length: 15m
G Parle, P Conroy (3/8/85)
The continuous off-width crack just right of the cave
More Details
Cruit/12a The Edge
*
HS 4a
Length: 15m
I Miller, C Gleason
Climb the right hand edge of the crag with excellent flowing moves to join "Two Move Blunder" in the upper reaches
More Details
Cruit/12b Two Move Blunder
VS 5a
Length: 15m
I. Miller, C. Gleeson 04/05/12
Climb as for "One Move Wonder" at half height pull through the steep, almost roof crack and romp to the top.
More Details
Cruit/13 One-Move Wonder
VD
Length: 15m
P Conroy, G Parle (3/8/85)
The obvious left-curving chimney on the right of the crag.
More Details
Cruit/14 Elephant's Trunk
VD
Length: 15m
G Parle, M. Mills (4/8/85)
The arete on the left edge of the buttress.
More Details
Cruit/14a The Bowels
S 4a
Length: 15m
I Miller, C Gleason 17/6/12
Next right of "The Elephants Trunk" is a very deep cleft. Climb it with a tricky start and a bit of a squeeze just above
More Details
Cruit/15 Trident
Photo of route VD
Length: 10m
Alan Tees & The Pailing Girls 1990?
Approaching the wall from the West, descending a ramp, there are 3 deep clean parallel cracks on the right, two of which reach the top. Choose your route. (VD/S)
More Details
Cruit/15a Crimp For The Big
VS 4c
Length: 10m
I Miller, C Gleason 28/4/12
Climb the wall to the right of the Trident grooves
More Details
Cruit/15b More Tridents
D -
Length: 10m
?
To the right of Crimp for The Big slab there are three parrallell grooves all about diff
More Details
Cruit/16 Cave Rave.
* * *
Photo of route S 4a
Length: 32m
I. Miller, C. Gleeson 17/04/10

 At it's Western end, the "Far west Buttress" terminates into a big daddy of a sea cave/tunnel. On the seaward wall of the cave, climb the inverted ridge with considerable atmosphere.

 Pitch 1. 6m From sea level climb the left trending hand crack to the right hand end of a superb non tidal ledge.

 Pitch 2. 25m 4a Traverse out left along the ledge until you are overlooking the void. Circumnavigate the void on jugs and superb rock/gear, keep overlooking the void as you ascend for full effect. A superb pitch. 


More Details
Cruit/17 Gadaboot Chimney.
D
Length: 21m
I. Miller 17/04/10

This route cimbs the right trending chimney in the centre of the face.

 Pitch 1. 6m As for "Cave Rave."

 Pitch 2. 15m. At the right hand end of the non tidal ledge, back & foot the right trending chimney until forced into grassy shenanigans at it's summit.


More Details
Cruit/18 Lapping sea's groove
VD -
Length: 20m
I. Miller, Nepal Paul 12/05/10
From the same ledge at 5m from sea level, (as for Cave Rave & Gadaboot Chimney) climb the right trending fault to the right of Gadaboot Chimney.
More Details
Cruit/19 Strangeness S
HVS 4c
Length: 20m
Iain Miller, Caoimhe Gleeson 12/04/12
Approx 30m on the sea ward side of Cave Rave climb the center of the black triangle of rock following the central groove. Holds and gear become increasingly unhelpful as height is gained. 
More Details
Cruit/14b Louise\'s Day Out
VD -
Length: 10m
L OConnor, H Hennessy 24/4/2013
5 meters right of the \"bowels\", climb left trending ramp and move out right to follow a groove to the top.
More Details