Crag Number: 63

Owey Island (West)

Directions: The island is divided by a track running from the village in a northerly direction, stopping just short of a deep inlet.  Owey Island West describes the routes to the west of this track in a clockwise direction from the village.

OS Grid Reference: B709228

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IOb/1 Owey Yin Kenobi
Photo of route S 4a
Length: 15m
Alan Tees, Bill Magowan 20/06/09
 Scolp an Aill.  Gr 71634 23358.  SW of Torglas is a bay flanked on its SW side by a couple of impressive caves (one with a slim freestanding pillar) and a stack connected by a narrow arete. Towards the north of this bay, abseil to a large non tidal platform.  This routes takes the platform corner (with an offwidth crack in it).  Technical to start, leans back higher up, but with a short loose arete at the top.
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IOb/2 Four Ewoks in a Pie
D -
Length: 15m
Alan Tees, Bill Magowan, 20/06/09
This takes the easy ramp running up rightwards from the left hand edge of the non tidal ledge of Owey Yin Kenobi,
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IOb/3 Hugh Francis
* *
HS 4b
Length: 15m
Alan Tees, Bill Magowan 20/06/09
From the start of "Four Ewoks" step left and climb up through a break in the overhangs on good jugs.  Avoid the furry ramp on the right, and continue up the wall/corner to the top.  Good route!
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IOb/0

No length recorded
Toin Reamhar. These routes face the stacks just north of Torglas (Fracture Stack/TorBan and Torglas Tower/Lady of Owey).
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IOb/4 Fandango
D -
Length: 8m
Alan Tees, Sandra Kennedy, Valli Schafer, PJ Monaghan 23/06/07
South of Dragon Bay, and slightly South of Torglass, scramble down to this small detached pillar, wider at the top than the bottom, and climb it by the landward facing edge. 
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IOb/5 Pete's Prowess
VS 4c
Length: 15m
Peter McConnell and George Carlton June 07
  This takes the obvious leftward trending crack/overlap between Torglass/"Fandango" etc and the wall containing "Assbiter"
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IOb/6 Crazy Paving
VS 4b
Length: 20m
George Carlton, Peter McConnell June 07
Just left of "Petes Prowess" climb easily up broken slabs into a corner. Climb the wall to the left of the corner to the top. 
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IOb/7 Ass Biter
Photo of route S -
Length: 25m
Anthony Feeney, Michael Hassan 23/06/07

South of Dragon Bay and north of Torglass, on a south facing wall there are a series of leftward leaning cracks. Abseil down the large blank section on the right of the wall to gain the start. Use the blocky steps on the face to follow an edge line towards a small overhang, exiting right of the overhang onto a loose exit.


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IOb/8 Ginger Biscuit
D -
Length: 8m
Anthony Feeney, Michael Hassan 23/06/07

On the north wall on the other side of the bay from Ass Biter a zig zag stepped line can be seen in the alcove in the centre of the wall. A very easy ascent on grippy jugs.


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IOb/0

No length recorded
Originally called 'Dragons bay' in ignorance, by climbers, Scealpan Bui is a spectacular array of granite.  Unfortunately much of it is loose, suffers from felspar leeching, and did not live up to initial expectations. Approach from the village, keeping left of the big hill, and descend by a gully at gr 70952 022911
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IOb/9 King of the Swingers
HS 4a
Length: 10m
Anthony Feeney, Michael Hassan 23/06/07

On the face immediately round the corner right of Ginger Biscuit start as low as possible on a rocky rung. Using the horizontal cracks and edges climb to the highest point directly above, avoiding the blocky ledges to the left and right that threaten to turn this route into a Severe or less.


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IOb/10 Super Sunday
VD -
No length recorded
S. Read, I. Miller 27/06/10
In the bay containing \\\"Taming the Dragon\\\" sea stack, sea level traverse south from the stack passing the \\\"WO CC\\\" & \\\"JC\\\" carvings. After the \\\"JC\\\" climb the series of corners & steps trending slighly left to the base of a right facing corner. Climb the corner by the stepped crack (exposed) to the summit.
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IOb/11 Towers of Pizza
VD -
No length recorded
P Smith, A Tees (19/9/99)
Probably the most obvious feature is a series of stepped towers connected to the clifftop by a short arete. This is well down towards the sea.Climb the first step by a wide corner crack on the right, and continue up taking care not to drop too many boulders on the second. Will be excellent at its grade, when the loose rock is cleared.
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IOb/12 Taming The Dragon
* *
Photo of route D
No length recorded
A.Tees, Martin McGuigan (Alt.leads) 24/09/2000
A fine outing, spectacular and photogenic, on the sea stack in the bay. Cross from the sea facing mainland wall and climb the right hand side of the sea arch to belay at a block on the top. Continue over the arch and climb ramp on mixed rock and some vegetation to belay. Traverse pinnacled ridge to highest block at the far end.
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IOb/13 .Baby Jasmine’s Dragon
S 4a
Length: 26m
I. Gault. J. Mallon, R. Mulraney, S. Garcia 12/07/13
 

 On the wall below the sea arch, start climbing up onto good ledges then follow line of dark crack on good holds then climb ramp on mixed rock and vegetation to large blocks belay and abseil point. 


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IOb/14 Dragons Breath
HS -
No length recorded
P Smith, B Magowan (19/9/99)
On the sea-facing wall, opposite stack, approx midway between\'Towers of Pizza\' and\'Ferryman Ridge\', access is by sea-level travese. Start from a small platform and climb parallel fluted cracks. Airy moves bring you up on a long, grassy ascent to the foot of another small wall. This is climbed boldy on a leftward trending crack to reach an arete, and left to the top.
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IOb/15 Ferryman Ridge
Photo of route VD -
No length recorded
A Tees, M Pailing (19/09/99)
Traversing right, at sea level, past the sea stack, there is a prominent pillar just where you turn into the next bay ( the Ferryman). This exploratory route gains the col behind the Ferryman by climbing sound rock on its far side. Continue up left, taking care, and make an awkward exit through a keyhole
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IOb/16 Light in the Western Sky
Photo of route VS 4b
No length recorded
M McGuigan, Tees Alt. Leads (23/9/2000)
Start left of, and below obvious overhang capped corner at the bottom left of the main seamed wall at the western landward side of the Zawn. Scramble up left of the capped corner, climb crack just behind, to gain slab above, move up right and climb fluted cracks (crux) to ledge.Continue up obvious corner and wall to top.
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IOb/17 Comedy of Errors
HVS 5a
No length recorded
M McGuigan, A Tees (24/09/2000)
This takes the obvious line of corner/grooves about 10m right of \'Light in the Western Sky\'. An abseil Descent is preferable as access to the bottom is dangerous. Layback up two large flakes and continue up Groove (substained) to small ledge. Climb at left two corners to door exit
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IOb/18 Archangel
Photo of route S 4a
No length recorded
Alan Tees, Geoff Thomas 25/08/08
At Toin an Earraidh.  This takes a curving line up the huge slab on the North side of Dragon Bay. Abseil down from Gr7078922982, (rusty post in situ) to a ledge at the centre of the slab comfortably above high water line. Climb up rightwards for about 30m, reaching the right edge, and avoiding the prominent overhangs. An exposed step left leads into a corner, which is followed to the top. A really spectacular line for the grade, but the rock should be treated with some respect.
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IOb/19 American Spirit
E2 5b
No length recorded
R.Brown and J.McCune 23/06/2014
A nice little route on the smaller cliffs south of Holy Jasus Wall.  Start up a large corner. At the ledge at half height, step left and jam up the crack to a final squirm to the top.
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IOb/0

No length recorded
Holy Jasus Wall Gr 70781 23150 ( Binn Dubh). This awesome granite wall is come upon suddenly, opening beneath your feet as you walk around the island, (thus 'Holy Jasus Wall'!)
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IOb/20 Blaze the Trail
XS 6b
No length recorded
J.McCune, R. Brown 23/06/2014
2 pitches.  Starting from the obvious ledge near the base of the arete of \'Holy Jasus Wall\', follow the hand traverse out onto the wall. hard moves on crimps lead up a darker band of rock to the second break and belay.  The next pitch effectively goes straight up the centre of this stunning overhanging wall to it\'s highest point, utilising twin parralel cracks near the top.E7
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IOb/21 The Second Coming
XS 6b
No length recorded
J.McCune, P. Swail 29/06/14
2 Pitches on \'Holy Jasus Wall\'.  Start on the same ledge as \'Blaze the Trail\'. After a short traverse onto the face, head up an obvious crack near the left edge.  The second pitch then climbs cracks on the face (near the left edge).  Very sustained with further hard moves in the top third.
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IOb/22 Imaculata***
E6 6b
Length: 60m
J. McCune, R. Brown 23/06/14
Starting from the obvious ledge near the base of the arête of Holy Jasus Wall, follow the hand traverse out on to the wall. Hard moves on crimps lead up a darker band of rock to the second break and belay. The next pitch climbs effectively straight up the center of the stunning overhanging wall to its highest point, utilising twin parallel cracks near the top


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IOb/0

No length recorded
Routes  at Leana Rann na Bhfaoileann, Owey.       Gr B  70702325These routes are at the NW end of Owey, beyond 'Holy Jasus Wall' (Binn Dubh).  Descent is by abseil. 
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IOb/23 Darcy.
Photo of route VS 4b
Length: 40m
Alan Tees, Valli Schaffer 21/06/14.
Routes  at Leana Rann na Bhfaoileann, Owey.       Gr B  70702325These routes are at the NW end of Owey, beyond 'Holy Jasus Wall' (Binn Dubh).  Descent is by abseil.   This takes the narrow south facing slab, probably the most notable feature thereabouts, but not very visable from most positions on the clifftop.  Start easily on the right, using whatever protection is available, as it becomes sparse higher up.  Move thinly towards the middle , climb a poorly protected groove to easier ground, and finish up on spectacular jugs to the top.  Lovely route on perfect granite.
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IOb/23 Mackrile,
Photo of route HS 4b
Length: 25m
Alan Tees, Valli Schafer, Martin McGuigan 7/09/14
Abseil Darcy to access. Enter the fissure separating the slab of 'Darcy' from the main cliff.  Bridge up, and scale a bit of unprotected rock on good holds, leftwards,  to a ledge, continuing up to the base of twin cracks at the top of the gully.  Climb the cracks (crux) and continue  up past a spectacular flake to the top.
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IOb/24 Kite Runner
Photo of route S 4a
Length: 30m
Bill Magowan, Alan Tees 22/06/14
 About 15m South of the base of Darcy, there is an obvious chimney system, which gives delightful climbing on sound granite at about V. Diff.  Towards the top, choose the steep stepped cracks on the left, which improve the quality from good to excellent, and the grade to severe!
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IOb/24 Two Seagulls
Photo of route S 4a
Length: 30m
Alan Tees, Valli Schafer 21/06/14
   Start as for Kite Runner, and ascend right to the edge.  Step around the corner and climb a flake to a ledge, and a higher step to the top.
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IOb/25 One and a Half Seagulls
S 4a
Length: 30m
Martin Bonar, Ivan Krella, 22/06/14
 This takes the deep crack between Kite Runner and Two Sea Gulls.
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IOb/26 Traonach,
Photo of route HS 4b
Length: 30m
Ivan Krella, Martin Bonar, 22/06/14.
Traonach,** 30m HS4b. Start awkwardly mid way between Darcy and Kite Runner to gain slanting ledge and short wet corner.  Climb corner and cracked slab on the left to a ledge.  Climb directly to a higher ledge, and up steep crack on jugs to the top. Ivan Krella, Martin Bonar, 22/06/14.
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IOb/27 Crex crex
Photo of route S 4a
Length: 25m
Alan Tees, Bill Magowan, 22/06/14
    Start on the slanting ledge ( see Crex Direct) and traverse down to wet corner.  Climb it, but continue straight up wide crack, and climb a higher cracked slab on the left to the top ledge.  Traverse left for a couple of metres, and finish as for Crex Direct. .
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IOb/28 Lumpy space***
E4 6a
Length: 25m
J. Mccune, K. Kilroy
Silly climbing up and across a series of dubious but juggy flakes gains a span to gain the hanging groove. Continue up the groove with sustained interest and bursting forearms to a slabbier finish.
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IOb/29 Supermarket Sweep**
E2 5c
Length: 30m
C. Hiller, D. Chatteris 28/06/14
Abseil to a spacious black oblong ledge below two main cracks. Starting from the right side of the ledge climb up and left for several metres until below an obvious steep bulge. Climb through this (crux) using side pulls to gain the crack above with the angle easing.
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IOb/30 Promethius **
Photo of route VS 4c
Length: 27m
D. Millar, K. McGee, P. Tinney
The following two routes climb the same feature starting at different heights above sea level. Promethius climbs a crack on the east face of the Flutted Zawn opposite the “flutted features” on the west face. Abseil in to base of corner crack (about 7m above sea) and set up a belay in crack above a small roof feature. Climb the layback crack steeply to start with great featured rock towards top. Crux at start.
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IOb/31 An rud a luionn in iochtar (What Lies Beneath)
E3 6a
Length: 30m
K. McCoey, P. Nolan 16/06/14
  Has been done before but previous ascents started much higher up the crack. Belay on far right of large ledge shared by Lumpy space, Start just right of belay on good flake ( good gear ) start traverse with delicate moves right to gain a large hold under crack , get high feet and make strenuous moves through face and crack to good holds on left horizontal break follow crack with easing difficulty to top  
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IOb/32 Comallyee Ridge
VD 4a
Length: 40m
A. Tees, M. McGuigan, G. Thomas, V. Schafer 08/09/14
The obvious juggy line of weakness running right to left up the wall on the seaward side of Prometheus. Abseil diagonally from a square inset 5m beyond the top of Prometheus, down to sea level. Start on the seaward side of the ridge, and scramble up to a short layback crack. More straightforward scrambling left leads to an awkward thrutch of a corner (4a) and on to the top.
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IOb/33 Blue Moon
VS 4c
Length: 30m
D. Millar, I. Krella July 2012
This climbs the featured cracked wall right of the Promethius crack. Abseil in to a large sloping ledge about 8m above sea. Climb crack at top of ledge steeply for 3-4m to where the angle eases off. Continue diagonally leftwards using cracks to base of a large detached flake. Step left onto face and climb vertical crack 1 metre left of detached flake. Climb this for 5m to ledge. Continue diagonally leftwards to corner crack at top of Prometius. Climb this crack to top. The following three routes are found on the West face of the Flutted Zawn.
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IOb/34 Panpipes
HS 4b
Length: 30m
D. Millar, I. Krella June 2012
Abseil in to large platform at base of fluted buttress. Step right off platform onto arete on Fluted Buttress (about 3m above sea). Climb arete to large flake feature about 4m above platform. Continue up arete using horizontal breaks finishing rightwards towards top.
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IOb/35 Girls with Fishes**
HS 4b
Length: 30m
D. Millar, I. Krella June 2012
This climbs large chimney feature left of the Panpipes arete in first half and easier ground in second half towards top. Abseil to large platform on west of Flutted Zawn. Climb chimney using crack on right wall for 10m to where angle eases off. Continue up easier angled rock towards top.  
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IOb/36 Mauritz with Pollacks
Photo of route VS 4c
Length: 20m
I. Krella, G. Thomas 06/09/12
This route starts from the ledge left of Girls with Fishes in the middle of the wall. Go straight up following the easiest ground. It gets steeper near the top.
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IOb/37 Dreadnought*
Photo of route S 4a
Length: 20m
Alan Tees, Bill Magowan 22/06/14.
 

Towards the back of the zawn at gr B 70576 23324 of Promethius etc, is an impressive narrow chasm, slabby on one side and overhung on the other.  Ab down a line of weakness (and drainage channel) on the landward end of the chasm, to an atmospheric narrow ledge well above the tide.   There are no belays, so belay on the abseil rope.  Climb the fine rock on the right of the wetness, and continue up on the left of a rib to an overhang, which is turned on the right.


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IOb/0 Wild Atlantic Wall
D -
No length recorded
x
At the far western tip of Owey Island lives the Wild Atlantic Wall, this 30 meter high wall of immaculate granite provides sea cliff climbing of the highest quality. Follow the directions as for Collossus Wall and at the lake walk west up and over the slight rise to the far western tip of Owey. Grid Ref B705235 This route avoids almost all the deep wet bog and bramble bashing the more direct routes will take you through. Abseil access to all the routes.

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IOb/38 Journey into the Unknown **
E5 6b
Length: 33m
P. Swail, R. Smith 16/06/14
 

Abseil in 15m East of the top groove/ chimney of Wild Atlantic Way. Abseil over a series of overlaps until a ledge is reached – from here re-belay and make a diagonal abseil (left when looking in) to the starting ledge. The abseil is very committing and requires some gear to be put in just to stay in contact with the cliff.

Pitch 1 (6b) 15m - From the ledge climb the steep wall horizontally right for 6m until below a corner. Make strenuous and bold moves up to below the corner where a rest is had. From here arrange protection and fire up the corner (crux) to reach the belay.

Pitch 2 (5a) 18m – Follow the crack above that runs diagonally to the left to reach a large ledge. Climb the short steep corner to the top.


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IOb/39 Wild Atlantic Way***
E6 6b
Length: 45m
P. Swail, K. McCoey 17/06/14
 E6 6b,5c 

Abseil in 4m North of the finishing groove of Wild Atlantic Way down to a ledge 5m above the high tide line (visible from the top of Darcy’s mist). You must keep you swing so you can reach the ledge (if not you will be stuck in space). The route starts of the left side of the ledge.

Pitch 1 (6b) 20m – From the left edge of the ledge make some easy moves up to reach a layback crack. Climb this strenuously until it ends just below a small roof. Bridge wildly up the holdless groove to get established in the overhanging chimney above to a well deserved rest. Climb the delightful chimney and take a belay at the top of it.

Pitch 2 (5c) 25m – Climb horizontally right from the belay and under a massive flake for 8m. Continue more direct up a left facing corner. Jam up the corner with difficulty until the top groove is reached. Watch for rope drag!


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IOb/40 Ceochan Darcy ( Darcy\'s Mist )***
E3 5c
Length: 28m
K. McCoey, P. Swail 17/06/14
 

This takes the NE facing corner 10m East of the Wild Atlantic Way Buttress. Approach is by abseil down to the tidal ledge.

Belay on large ledge below overhanging corner, follow corner through series of ledges with good gear and surprising steepness. At the last ledge move right and make moves on thin gear up face and handrail to top. Bold and deceivingly steep!


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IOb/41 The Dark Dwellers***
E3 5c
Length: 20m
P. Swail, K. McCoey, R. Smith 16/06/14
 

Abseil into the dark chimney 10m West of Darcy’s Mist. It climbs the black wall via left facing crack.

Start at the base of crack (often wet) east at first until the crack peters and the corner feature heads out right at 13m. From here make a big span left to a good rounded hold. Climb boldly and delicately straight up the wall to finish.

 


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IOb/42 Hooters***
VS 4c
Length: 25m
not known
 

Fun climbing on the steep juggy wall across the zawn from The Dark Dwellers.


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IOb/43 Pride of Kincasslagh ***
E2 5c
Length: 25m
J. McCune, K. Kilroy
From the cleft of The Dark Dwellers abseil down the nose on the North-East tip down to a good square cut ledge. The next 2 routes start from this ledge.

Climb the rightwards flake and groove passing a birdbeak roof. Immaculate granite.

 


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IOb/44 Nothing to Fear ***
E4 6a
Length: 35m
P.Swail, N.Nolan 29/06/14
 

From the right hand side of the ledge follow the thin crack to the middle of the slab. Climb boldly but easily up to a scoop in the slab below a set of parallel cracks. Make a long reach up and climb along the cracks (hands in one and feet on the other) rightwards until the wall steepens below an arête. Finish directly up the arête in a wild and very satisfying position.


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IOb/45 Ronnie’s Corner**
E2 5b
Length: 18m
R. Smith, P. Swail 16/06/14
The first of  4 routes which start from a non-tidal ledge just around the corner from the top arête of Nothing to Fear.

Climb the corner, bold to start up then steady to the top.


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IOb/46 A Farewell to Arms **
E6 6a
Length: 20m
P. Swail, P. Nolan 29/06/14
 

A steep well protected test piece – worth getting warmed up for this one!

Start as for Ronnie’s corner. At the base of the corner proper climb the steep wall with a vague corner system passing a crus at 2/3 height!

 


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IOb/47 Lost my Cent **
E2 5b
Length: 20m
P.Swail, R. Smith 16/06/14
 

Start as for Darcy’s Corner. Climb up for 5m until the corner steepens. Climb the corner/flake on the left wall and make some strenuous moves to get established on some positive breaks. Arrange gear and blast up and slightly left to finish at the top of ……….. (your feet, your form??)


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IOb/48 Darcy’s Corner *
VS 5a
Length: 22m
P. Swail, R. Smith 16/06/14
How many routes can be named after one dog?

Climb the corner 5m right of Ronnie’s Corner passing a hard move at the top.


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IOb/0
D
No length recorded
 Pol na Chorra. From the centre of the wee village, follow the track along the stream NNE until you arrive at the loch @ Grid Ref B711235. Continue to the coast until you are facing the off shore island/stack, descend to sea level to the west down the huge descending slabs. Once at sea level coastaleer your way East until facing the landward face of the stack. The following 4 routes climb the aretes above this outstanding seaside resort.  
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IOb/49 Touching the Void*
VD 3c
Length: 23m
I. Miller, W. Schuessler 29/03/11
 

Climb the right trending ramp line at the base of \"Black Arete,\" follow the ramp around the corner for a tad of exposure. :-)


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IOb/50 Black Arete
VS 4c
Length: 20m
W. Schuessler, I. Miller 29/03/11
Climb the black Arete with sparse gear to begin and excellent perplexing moves in the middle. 
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IOb/51 Back to Trier
VS 4b
Length: 20m
W. Schuessler, I. Miller 29/03/11
Climb the sharp arete to the left of "Black Arete" on excellent positive holds and just enough gear.
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IOb/52 Collossus
* *
Photo of route VD 3c
Length: 25m
I. Miller, W. Schuessler 29/03/11
At the far left end of the crag climb the soaring tower/arete on immaculate rock/jugs and steepness.
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IOb/53 Eadi fotaigineach ( Photogenic clothing )**
E1 5b
Length: 30m
K. McCoey, R. Smith, P. Swail 17/06/14
This is the first of two routes  found in the steep black zawn at Grid Reference B706235.

Abseil off boulder with large in cut Ring formation to ledge below water line start left of ledge under small corner and roof just left of The Ring , Follow corner until moving right under roof to arete follow this up on good holds towards left hand side of small overlap to top


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IOb/54 The Ring **
HVS 5a
Length: 30m
R. Smith, K. McCoey, P. Swail 17/06/14
 

Climb up the left facing corner to small overlap. Pull through this and continue up the lovely crack system to the top.


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IOb/54 Bear Arse Ridge.
Photo of route S 4a
Length: 70m
Alan Tees, Valli Schafer 9/09/14
This takes the obvious ridge at the end of the headland 'Toin Reamhar' between the' lake below the Lake', and the inlet containing 'Hole in the Clouds' (Bun a Maochall).  It is easily identified from anywhere on the coast due to the big knobble (The bear's head) high on it.   Abseil , and dog leg left, below the knobble, over an airy window, continuing down the stepped ridge to the sea.   Pick your route of ascent to just below the Bears Head.  A short pitch of severe up the left hand edge leads on top of the head, followed by a short descent, and scramble to the top.  Spectacular situations.
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IOb/55 Fat Arse Crack
E3 5c
Length: 60m
M. Walsh, D. O’Sullivan 2011
 On the left side of the left wall climb the full crag height wide crack. 


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IOb/60 Demise of the Rockstar
* * *
E3 5c
Length: 60m
J. McCune, K. Kilroy
A carefully set up free hanging abseil (60m) reaches a ledge at the base of the crack to start routes “Demise of the Rockstar” and “Rainshadow.”

Climb the massive steep deep crack at the side of the Zawn. Start in an open groove at the base of 12 ,the cleft or as low as the sea allows. Climb using a combination of squirming, jug hauling, caving and bridging, outside and inside the crack. Possible belay at half height. Crux at the top with an overhang Start as low as the sea allows. J. McCune, K. Kilroy 


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IOb/61 Rainshadow
* * *
E4 6b
Length: 70m
J. McCune, K. Kilroy
Pitch 1: 5a 30m Climb the groove to a diagonal ramp. Continue up the roof and cracks to a spacious belay ledge/cave. Pitch 2: 6b 20m From the lefthand side of the ledge climb a diagonal rightwards crack and pull strenuously around a roof to gain the most incredible hanging corner. Climb around a second roof to reach the third roof section which is enormous. Follow this via an epic traverse with good gear, underclings and just enough for your feet. Gain another 5 star belay ledge hanging out above the nose, and the sea. Pitch 3: 6b 20m Follow the crack straight up into a final overhanging groove which is passed with surprising difficulty.


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IOb/62 Srón Tochasach (The Itchy Nose)
* * *
E5 6a
Length: 70m
J.McCune, K.Kilroy
The following two routes are approached by a diagonal abseil down a corner /gully with a big chock stone. With a deviation about half way gain a non tidal big square ledge.

 

 Pitch 1: 6a 35m Climb a rightwards diagonal crack from the lefthand edge of the ledge. When possible follow some cracks and grooves straight up to small niche under the righthand side of the massive roof. Now traverse up and leftwards on small egdes. Place a few cams under the roof and gain an arete on the left. Pull round the arete via an exhilarating move to gain a wonderful belay ledge/cave. (Careful route finding and rope management required.) Pitch 2: 5b 10m From the belay traverse rightwards onto the hanging slab using small holds and underclings in the roof. Step down to gain the arete of the incredible hanging nose feature. Belay “au cheval” a leg either side. Pitch 3: 6a/b 25m Now follow the steep splitter crack with increasing difficulty until possible to move back left to some good ledges and a rest. Now soak up the exposure, atmosphere and life in general before attacking the strenuous overhanging exit grove. J.McCune, K.Kilroy 


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IOb/63 The Donkey\'s Pelvis
* * *
HVS 5a
Length: 60m
J.McCune, K.Kilroy
Follows the line of the abseil. Climb a fine crack to a niche and rightwards trending ramp. After about 4 meters climbing up the ramp climb up the wall via grooves and flutings. Trend rightwards, then up a groove to gain a big ledge. Possible Belay. Climb a crack above the ledge which leads to the exit groove, blocked by the huge chockstone. Pass on the right with care. 


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IOb/64 The Donkey Jumped over the Moon
* * *
E2 5c
Length: 18m
J.McCune, K.Kilroy
An exhilarating variation top pitch to the previous route. From the right hand side of the belay ledge climb a crack with difficulty into a groove barred by a roof. Escape rightwards under the stepped roofs on under clings and small footholds. When things run out make a sensational move to gain a magnificent hold on the arete and follow the jugs to glory. 


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IOb/56 Pongo
E1 5b
Length: 25m
J. McCune, K. Maxwell
Abseil down to a good ledge at the base of the following cracks to the left of the main overhangs of the An Sron wall.

 

Climb the corner into a crack passing a few bulges. 


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IOb/57 Coco Corner
HVS 5b
Length: 25m
K. Kilroy, J. Colandairaj
  Abseil as for Pongo. Climb the crack right of the corner passing a few bulges and a strange move. 
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IOb/58 Unnamed
VS 4c
Length: 25m
S. Black, C. Strawson, R. Temple
Climb the diagonal ramp and corner, until a crack on the left wall. follow this up to a ledge and belay behind an enormous block. Follow the slab and ramp rightwards to finish? 


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IOb/59 Shane's Route
E2 5c
Length: 25m
J. McCune, K. Kilroy
 Abseil to a good ledge down and left. Climb the rightwards flake and groove passing a birdbeak roof. Immaculate granite.


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IOb/0

No length recorded
Bun a Maochall.  This is the big inlet in the north of Owey, at the end of the track from the village.  Everything beyond this is described in Owey East.
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IOb/66 Hole in the clouds
Photo of route HS
Length: 50m
D. Millar & I. Krella 27.8.2008

This route is in the left wall of the big inlet Bun na Maochall ( at the N end of the track and NE of the lake).

It takes the big corner  at the outer end of the wall, the upper section being climbed on the arete to the right.  


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IOb/67 Twelfth Day
E1 5b
Length: 25m
P.Brennan, D.Millar, M.Bonner 12/7/2010
Good steep climbing with good protection, but beware of loose rock.Climbs the steep wall left of the second pitch of Hole In The Clouds. Belay as for that route. Climb the crack in the middle of the wall starting on jugs then using rounded flake pinches. Sustained. Move right to easier ground at around 15m to avoid a large hollow flake and climb more easily to the top.
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IOb/68 The Headless Quadman
HVS 4c
Length: 60m
J.McCune, R. Brown 23/06/2014
This climb is found on the slabby wall on the south side of the large inlet just north of the 'Fat Arse?' area. It climbs an obvious curving crack near the left end of the slab before avoiding a grassy groove to finish by cracks in the headwall.
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IOb/36 Fishing for Compliments
Photo of route HVS 5a
Length: 20m
G Thomas, I Krella, 6/9/2014
Takes the crack and faint groove just left of Mauritz with Pollaks. Straight up until forced by poorer rock to exit into left grove.
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