Crag Number: 73

Gola - Owey Wall

Directions: The next area described is the broken ground on the far side of the Twin Caves cove. There are a few short routes here, along ledges which face south. From the top at the eastern end, it is possible to scramble easily to a ledge system at mid-height. This can be followed (westwards) almost to its end (where the cliffs turn to face Tornamullane and become "Island Wall"). Just before this, there is a large square corner, which faces southwest.

OS Grid Reference: B758272

Click here to view location in Google Maps
IG/56 Bellydancer
E1 5b
No length recorded
T. O'Neill, G.Moss 30/4/00
Start at the Western end of the ledge system mentioned in the introduction to Owey Wall. Climb onto a block and step down to a stance below the right-hand end of the slab lying beneath the large overhang. Make a difficult move up onto the lip of the slab using a vertical crack and traverse left to a foothold. Move out left from beneath the overhang (crux) and climb the edge to a belay. A climb requiring steadiness in both leader and second.
More Details
IG/57 Giant Steps
VD
No length recorded
T. O'Neill, G.Moss 30/4/00
Start as for above. Climb onto the block and trend up right over blocks and ledges to the top.
More Details
IG/58 Pow-row
HVS 5a
No length recorded
F.Power, B.Rowe 30/4/00
Start 3m left of Balor. Climb easily over blocks to the base of a crack sloping up left across the steep wall. Strenuous moves up the crack to a ledge and finish as for Giant Steps.(Note: The vertical crack between Pow-row and Balor has repulsed several parties and is, as far as I'm aware, still unclimbed.)
More Details
IG/59 Balor/Gooseberry
HVS 5a
Length: 9m
R.Laffan, D.Flynn 1 June 1996
This route climbs the corner direct. Climb the block at the base of the corner on its right. Steeply climb the corner past the bulge to good holds at a seemingly secure block. Finish more easily leftwards.
More Details
IG/60 Gola Digger
HS 4b
No length recorded
G.Moss, T.O'Neill 30/4/00
Start around the corner to the right from Balor, at the foot of the slab. Climb the slab near its left edge to a stance below the headwall. Up this trending left.
More Details
IG/61 Cuckoo
S
No length recorded
G.Moss, T.O'Neill 30/4/00
Start below the big overhangs to the right of Fools Staircase. Climb a short corner and move left to a large ledge. Climb the corner immediately left of the overhang.
More Details
IG/62 The Slot
HVS 5a
No length recorded
T. O'Neill, G.Moss 30/4/00
Start as for Cuckoo. Climb the corner and move right to a ledge. Make an awkward move up onto the projecting block and climb the narrow chimney/crack through the overhangs, moving right at the top.
More Details
IG/63 Fools Staircase
HVS 5a
Length: 25m
S.MacGearailt, D.Doyle, R.Toal
Descend to easy angled slabs west of Twin Caves Area and traverse for approximately 50m to area where there are 4 obvious steps to top (Just after big overhangs/roofs). Climb steps to top. Third step awkward mantleshelf. Climb final step via crack with awkward finish.
More Details
IG/64 Thin Lines
HS 4b
No length recorded
T. O'Neill, S. Daly, G. Moss 30/4/00
To the left of Dilly Dalying there is a wall with horizontal breaks and a flaky vertical crack. Start in the middle of the wall, left of a crack. Climb the wall, using the breaks, then move up and right to finish just left of vertical crack.
More Details
IG/65 Dilly Dalying
HS 4b
No length recorded
S.Daly, C.Murray 30/4/00
Climb the obvious right-angled corner around to the left of the Heffalump wall.
More Details
IG/66 Heffalump
VS 5a
Length: 9m
R.Laffan, D.Flynn 1 June 1996

From where you first scramble to the ledge system, there is a short slab in front of you. This route takes the wall to its left.

Climb the prominent crack to the right of wall to the crux at the top where you struggle valiantly to pull over the rounded top edge or else sacrifice some fingers to the painful crack.


More Details
IG/67 Heffaheart
HS 4a
No length recorded
G.Moss, T.O'Neill 1/5/00
The groove just inside the left edge of the Heffalump wall.
More Details
IG/68 Heffago
S
No length recorded
G.Moss, T.O'Neill 30/4/00
The flake filled crack just right of Heffaheart.
More Details
IG/69 Heffabreak
S
No length recorded
G.Moss, T.O'Neill 1/5/00
The wide crack 1m right of Heffago.
More Details
IG/70 Conundrum
VD
No length recorded
C.Murray, S.Daly 30/4/00
Climbs the slab to the right of Heffalump wall.
More Details