Crag Number: 8

Croc an affrain

Photo of crag from the photo gallery
Crockanaffrin - A Springbok
B Heather Rogan
C Mulroy
D Peregrination
E Thin Yin
F Easy Street
G Jammed Arete
H Geoff's Barely Contained Indifference
I Boulder One
J Daddy Fox
K Welfare Scam
L Cantabrian Cracks
M Great Corner
N Dole Bludger
O Bludgeon

Directions:

This crag sits in a pleasant location above Lough Swilly and Mulroy Bay with one of the finest skylines to be had. It now has the distinction of being a road-side mountain crag.

Approach from the East and a road now takes you up to the summit, courtesy of a Wind Farm.

NOTE map ref in current guidebook is out or has typing error.

From Letterkenny go to Ramelton, go over the bridge and take the road on the left for Milford.Go past the Milford Inn Hotel(5km) and after 500 meters more take the road on the right for Fanad Head --- Kerrykeel. Go straight through the crossroads in the center of Kerrykeel and take the road for Rathmullen. After 700 meters there is a Y junction, take the road on the right for Oughterlin. Stay on this road for 3.6km and come to a rough road on the right going up to a windfarm. Take this road to the highest windmill and plenty of parking.(GR C242 298) There are gates on the windfarm road but they are never locked just remember to close after use. From the highest windmill it is a 10 minute walk west to the crag.(GR C239 298).

OS Grid Reference: C241298

Click here to view location in Google Maps

Climbs are listed left-to-right. Go to far west, Kerrykeel, end of crag past large slab and big overhangs.
NW6/1 Spartacus
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VS 4b
Length: 20m
K McGee, P Tinney. 15/04/10
Start about half way between Crispy Bacon and the tree. Climb the centre of the steep wall to gain a stance below the overhang. Climb this and follow the thin crack to a ledge above the tree. Climb up over the bulge and continue up the final wall on the left side.
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NW6/2 Crispy Bacon
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Photo of route VS 4b
Length: 20m
K McGee, P Tinney, G Scott. 10/04/10
Located on the Kerrykeel side of the crag past Springbok and the big overhangs is a small face with a tree on the left edge, a central groove and an overhang on the right edge. Climb the central groove to just below the jammed block and grass. Move left and climb up the centre of the short steep wall.
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NW6/3 Aisha
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HVS 5a
Length: 18m
K McGee, P Tinney. 24/04/10
To the right of Crispy Bacon follow a faint crack up the cente of the face to a ledge. Climb past the horizontal break and up the groove with increasing difficulty to gain a good stance above the overhang.Follow the crack easily to the grass and climb the edge of the right block.
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NW6/4 Limbo
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E1 4c
Length: 18m
K McGee, G Scott. 01/05/10
Start directly below the right edge of the overhang. Climb up the face between the two cracks to a stance under the overhang. Move right into the chimney and climb this until you can make the airy step to the lowest foothold on the arete. Place some protection, make the step and climb the edge of the arete to the top.
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These climbs are on the big slab located at the far left of the crag and left of the descent gully
NW6/44 Becca
VS 4b
Length: 22m
Patrick & Adam Tinney

Start 1 metre left of Mid Life Crisis under a large grass corner. Go up to large blocky ledge at 3 metres. Step unto face using side pulls on crack on the right. Get up onto good triangular foot ledge (Crux). Continue up face keeping right to good sling rock spike. Finish up slightly overhanging wall on the left using a series of superb jugs to the top.


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NW6/5 Mid Life Crisis
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E1 5b
Length: 22m
K McGee, P Tinney 29/08/10
To the left of Anaphylactic Shock is a large face. Start in the middle and climb the obvious ramp or directly up the face to a protruding block. A couple of reasonable microwires can be placed on the way. Make an awkward move and stand on top of the block. Move right to gain the cracks and place some good gear. Climb up these and continue to the base of the next wall. A sling can be threaded out on the left. Climb up the centre of the wall(good size 1 nut) until the holds run out, delicately move left to a thin crack with good nut placements and holds at the top. Climb up the centre of the overhang to finish.
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NW6/6 Anaphylactic Shock
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Photo of route HVS 5a
Length: 22m
K McGee, P Tinney 01/08/10
To the left of the ivy covered face is a large overhang. Start on a small rock outcrop below the left side of the overhang. Make an awkward move to gain a stance on the face and climb to the base of the roof(good pro). Move left in to the groove and climb this direct to the top. 
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NW6/7 Neytiri
Photo of route VS 4b
Length: 22m
P. Tinney , K McGee 2- 10- 2010
The large open book corner with the roof 10 meters left of Spring buck. Climb up crack in corner on good holds and protection until crack gets very small about 1.5m below roof. Step out onto left face and traverse to large ledge on arete. Climb up arete and move right when level with roof. Finish up steep wall above roof on good holds.  
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NW6/8 Fill the Census
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E1 5b
Length: 20m
P. Tinney & K.McGee 10/4/2011
Start as for Neytiri and climb up to the roof. Place some small cams in the crack in the roof to the right. Reach up for holds in the crack, get the feet up and layback across roof  to a block with good holds and a small ledge below. Make a long step to good ledge on the arete. Then move up into corner and step left onto slab above the overhang. Climb across slab and exit on left on large holds to large belay ledge. 
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NW6/9 Springbok
Photo of route VS 4c
Length: 25m
Andy Tees, Ian Nutall 1/08/04
Towards the LHS of the big slab of Heather Rogan is a deep leftward trending crack. Gain this at about 4m and traverse left and up to the edge of the slab. Delicate moves left into diedre, which is climbed on better protection and holds to just below overhang. Step right, back onto upper slab, where good footholds trend right and up to finish near the slab centre
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NW6/10 Smoke on the water
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Photo of route E2 6a
Length: 20m
K McGee, P Tinney 16/10/10
Start up the thin vertical crack on the left of the slab and climb directly to the overlap. Use a cluster of crystals high on the right to gain a small hold above the overlap. Move across to the left edge and place a good .3cam(awkward)and then make a few more difficult moves to gain good holds and a spike for a sling. Move out right on to the face and continue to the top. 
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NW6/11 Disco Legs
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Photo of route E4 6a
Length: 20m
K McGee, P Tinney 25/09/10
In the centre of the face is an obvious flake. Start directly below the left side of this. Climb up to the second break on poor footholds and move out right to gain a series of steps . Follow these to the next break below the flake and arrange an assortment of poor gear(small nuts and cams). Gain a stance on the left side of the flake and place some more suspect wires.  Climb straight up to 3 small pockets and a tiny crack. The left pocket takes a brass offset3 and the crack takes a size 0. Aim for a good hold about 4 foot above the gear and continue easily to the top.
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The next routes are to the right of the Main Slab and left of Descent Gully
NW6/12 Heather Rogan
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Photo of route E1 5b
Length: 20m
K. McGee, P. Tinney 29/06/2009
Towards the left hand side of the crag and almost at the highest point is an impressive clean slab. This takes the obvious line of weakness up its right hand side. Fairly desperate towards the top being a bit thin on gear at the crux.
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NW6/13 Mulroy
Photo of route S 4a
Length: 12m
Alan Tees, Peter Cooper 17/08/07
Approx 10 metres right of the main slab containing Springbok, is a short corner overhung at the bottom left. Climb this, and move out left to a higher, hanging, right angled corner, which is climbed more easily. Move right and up short wall to finish.
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NW6/14 Peregrination
Photo of route HVS 5a
Length: 14m
P.Cooper, G.Thomas 13/07/05
Starts at base of wall at the bottom of the descent gully (on l. when facing the crag). Follow the thin crack in centre of steep slab to its' termination, step back across left to gain horizontal crack and continue directly up through the recess above.
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NW6/15 Shattered
VS 4b
Length: 7m
13/07/08 P.Cooper & V.Schafer
Located opposite the boulder at the foot of the descent gully, 5M r. of 'Peregrination' and on the l. of 'Thin Yin'. A groove leads up to a thin v-split crack, tackled on its left.
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NW6/16 Thin Yin
Photo of route VD
Length: 8m
R J Lee, A Tees
A poor route on the right-hand side of the descent gully with a `squeeze' exit (going down).
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NW6/17 Jammed Arete
Photo of route HS 4b
Length: 15m
A McFarlane (4/89)
N W 6/3 Jammed Arete 15m HS.4b An arete with a jam crack at two-thirds height, situated at the true right wall of the descent gully.
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The next routes are back on the main crag to the right of the Descent Gully
NW6/18 Geoff's Barely Contained Indifference
Photo of route HS 4b
Length: 7m
P.Cooper, G.Thomas 13/07/05
Climbs short steep/slabby face on r. of 'Jammed arete', keeping left of capped corner at mid-height.
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NW6/19 Nut Scratcher
HS 4b
Length: 5m
P.Cooper & G.Speciale
Centre of first face right of descent Gully. Straight up wall using cracks and edges (never!). Finish over small overlap on left.
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NW6/20 Easy Street
HS 4b
Length: 15m
A McFarlane (4/89)
The first slab right of the descent gully. Just right of centre, finishing right of overlap.
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NW6/21 Vixen
VS 4c
Length: 9m
P.Cooper, G.Thomas 13/07/05
2M r. of 'Nutscratcher' climb centre of slabby face, finishing direct. Has a nice exposed feel but the gear is there.
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NW6/22 Boulder One
HS 4b
Length: 15m
A McFarlane (4/89)
The second slab right of the descent gully. A bouldering move to start.
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NW6/23 Daddy Fox
S 4a
Length: 5m
A Tees, Andrew Tees.
NW6/4 A short corner 15m right of the descent gully(facing it from the bottom).
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NW6/24 Gilpin's Groove
D
Length: 5m
M.W.Holland, J.Gilpin, J.Sinclair, J.Purcell 22/09/07
Approximately 4m left of "Daddy Fox" (assuming Daddy Fox to be the obvious vegetated corner or right around the arete from "Boulder One"). A flake crack was followed up the left hand side of the wall to finish through an obvious 'V' notch/groove in the crag top. Pleasant climbing using the crack and edges.
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NW6/25 Welfare Scam
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HVS 5a
Length: 15m
A McFarlane, P Dunlop, N Grimes (4/89)
The first corner left of the main area of overhangs (the first corner right of the two slabs right of the descent gully). Sustained and strenuous.
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NW6/26 Tuning Fork
HVS 5a
Length: 17m
P.Tinney,K.McGee, M.McGinty 28/08/2008
Start about 3 metres right of welfare scam.Follow small crack leftwards to good stance.Move right up large flake crack and over onto main face above. Easier climbing to the top.
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NW6/27 Ballbuster
E1 4c
Length: 15m
P Tinney, K McGee, M Mc Ginty
Starts on the corner of the face 4m left of Gateway. Jump for holds on the outcrop and climb it on the left side(can be protected with a sling on the first hold). Climb straight up, left of the second overhang. Continue up over pockets and climb the wall directly for about 7m.
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NW6/28 Stranded
HVS 5c
Length: 16m
K. Mc Gee, P Tinney. 08/08
Start just to the right of Ballbuster. Jump for large hold(v.sharp) and place a sling on the next hold to the right. Get right hand up to the loose (jammed) block. Gain stance in niche under the second overhang with one or two precarious moves. Move right past the overhang and climb the v groove for about 4m to meet a crack coming from the right. Climb this easily to the top.
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NW6/29 Gateway
E1 5c
Length: 18m
K. Mc Gee, P Tinney
Start as for Tin A Beans 10m left of the great corner. Climb the left edge of the second overhang and then move back to the right for 2m. Climb the leftward trending crack for 11m to top. Thin on gear but a good nut can be placed about 4m above the second overhang and a size 1 nut about 8m up the face.
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NW6/30 Zorro
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E1 5c
Length: 20m
K. Mc Gee, P Tinney. 22/08/08
Start as for Tin a Beans 10m left of the great corner. Climb straight up the second overhang and climb directly up the face staying between the two cracks. Bold in the upper face.
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The next routes start up the large clean cut, right-facing, book corner
NW6/31 TIN-A-BEANS
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Photo of route HVS 5c
Length: 20m
P Tinney, K McGee 22 August 2008
10 metres left of Great Corner in the centre of the main overhangs there is a pillar of rock with a crack above. Get feet high on pillar and grab high for good hold in crack and another on the left. Move up over rim (crux) and follow crack up over next overhang to main face. Follow crack for 4m to small rock spike then traverse right to larger crack and follow this to top. NOTE:only protection for crux was a sling on a rock-spike.
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NW6/32 Cantabrian Cracks
Photo of route HS 4b
Length: 20m
A Tees, P Marshall (19/5/90)
Climb Great Corner to two-thirds height, then take the deep cracks in the left-hand wall. Continue up the arete.
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NW6/33 Great Corner
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Photo of route VS 4b
Length: 20m
A Tees, P Marshall (19/5/90)
Climb the obvious cleaned right-angled corner left of Bludgeon. Bypass the final overhang delicately on the right.
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NW6/34 Veronica
VS 4b
Length: 20m
A.Tees, P.Marshall 1990
Climb Great Corner to just above the overhang. Traverse delicately right (crux) to join Bludgeon, and continue to the top.
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NW6/35 Dole Bludger
E1 5b
Length: 20m
A McFarlane, D Stelfox (20.11/88)
Start up the first blocky recess through the right of the slab. Climb up into the diagonal crack that runs up to a short headwall. Climb the headwall via the left-hand break.
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NW6/36 Chicken Run
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Photo of route E1 5a
Length: 20m
K Mc Gee, P Tinney. (04/09)
Climb the overhang about 2m right of Dole Bludger. Can be protected with a BD1cam. Continue up to a small spike(sling). Climb directly up the face between the two cracks- no gear. Cross the crack(Bludgeon) about 2 metres below the headwall and place some gear. A BD 00 cam can be placed at the base of the headwall. Move right to below a thin vertical crack line and climb the face here on small holds.
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NW6/37 Bludgeon
Photo of route HVS 5a
Length: 20m
D Stelfex, A McFarlane (20/11/88)
Start at the next recess to the right. A steep juggy start through the first overhang leads to another overhang at 5m. Nip left through this to the easy upper wall.
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NW6/38 Crack an affrain
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Photo of route HS 4b
Length: 18m
P. Tinney & K. McGee. 29/8/2010
About 25meters to the right of The Great Corner just before the large boulder there is an easy angled wall leading up to an overhanging crack. Climb the wall easily on large holds to a good stance. From here place as many friends as you like then layback up the crack to large holds above and then easily up to the top. 
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NW6/39 Falarious
S 3c
Length: 12m
B. Reed & H. Feenstra
The corner arete to the left of the large fallen boulder. Start up the short corner to a sloping ledge. Move up to gain the slabby arete and follow to top. Poorly protected. 
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NW6/40 The SnailleTrail
HVS 4c
Length: 10m
N Grimes, A McFarlane, P Dunlop (1989)
Start behind the boulder formed cave beside Bankruptcy It climbs the clean, unprotected slab starting at the bottom and finishing at the top, via a long reach into a black groove.
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The next routes are on the Upper Crag, above and North of the Main Crag. 'Bless the Weather' takes the left arete of the obvious right facing corner.
NW6/41 Bankruptcy
Photo of route D
Length: 20m
NWMC 1950s
40m right of the'Great Corner' locate a right facing 'boulder formed' cave. Surmount cave and arete above. (Original route on the crag).
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NW6/41a Smigil
HS 4b
Length: 12m
Patrick and Aisling Tinney, 14 - 4 - 2012
About 6 metres to the right of Bankruptcy there is a large outcrop of rock with a left facing wall. Start about half way along this wall beside a small knife edge arete running up left. Step up onto the arete and make a move right to a good ledge. From the left side of the ledge move up and left to a fine flake crack on good holds and then on up to another good ledge. Reach out right for good holds on the steep face and finish to the top on big holds.
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NW6/41b Gollum
Photo of route VS 4c
Length: 18m
Patrick & Adam Tinney. 6-4-3013
Start at the far right corner of the face about 5 metres right of Smigil. Go up easy broken ground to a ledge 5 metres. Then layback up slopping corner in center of face to big holds on the left. Pull up into the corner and follow this up to the arete and large ledge. Climb  easily up the face trying to keep to the left arete to the top.
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NW6/43 Custard
HS 4a
Length: 12m
Patrick & Adam Tinney
About 80metres to the right of the boulder cave is a small buttress with 2 large square shaped overhangs. Start on the right of the first overhang. Move across the slab above on big holds to a small ledge on the right and then back left into the groove. Easy climbing to the top
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NW6/42 Bless the weather
HS 4b
Length: 5m
P.Cooper, P.Smith
The upper crag has an east facing clean-cut face, this takes the line of the arete; crux move above gear. I felt it was severe but Pete (my 2nd, Alan Tees (2nd ascentionist)and Mrs Ryan (who just needs to get out more :) ) all thought it was HS.
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