Crag Number: 23
Dunsevrick |
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Dunseverick, Slithery Zawn Area - A Scorpion, VDiff, B Beasties, VDiff. C Hook the Nook, HS4a. D Molten Music, HS4a. E Breezy Lava, VS4b. F Seagull Seize, HS4b. G Causeway, VS4b. H Groover, HS4b. I Slithery Zawn Direct, VS4b. J Crafty Yachting, Sev.4a. K Seamore Sweeney, VD. L Wind Up, VD. M Battlement Stance, VD. N Craicslova, VD. O Regulation Rock, VD. P Period Ant Bites, HVS5b. Q Spring Tide Seas , Sev . |
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Directions: From Bushmills head out the road to Giants Causeway. At Causeway follow the road (B146) sharp right to Ballintoy. After 3 or 4 miles there is the NT car park for Dunseverick Castle on the left. From here take the coastal path East around toward Port Braddan for 5 minutes passing a short quarried area on the right. 50m after a gap in the fence, a sea stack a few metres detached from the cliff on the left can be seen. This is the beginning of the harder section of cliff that runs for 50m Eastwards before turning into the small bay. For this West Crag access is by abseil down between the stack and the mainland To get to the East Crag either descend into the little amphitheatre or follow the path for 100m around the edge of the amphitheatre until a smaller path leading left of the main one leads down past a short rock wall on the left (and continued by a crude man made wall) into a pleasant grassy area with an obvious abseil boss at the point where the cliff turns out of the bay and goes eastwards again. 30m East of the first abseil boss is a second one, set back from the cliff edge a few metres and less obvious. This second boss is useful as the scrambling between ledges along the bottom is interrupted between the two by a narrow slithery zawn that is splashed for some of the time. The Rock is characterised by many good corner cracks separated by narrow prow areas usually no more than a few metres wide. In some cases the prows are foreshortened to give big flat ledges, that may be the reason why no one has climbed here as it looks as if there are no continuous lines. But the corner and groove features going down below these ledges give good climbing at the grade. The rock is blackened by wave washing at the bottom but at the top tends to be less clean and care is required. The routes are described from left to right and the routes left of the slithery zawn are best approached from the second belay boss because they are on the other side of the slithery zawn. None of these lines are tidal. The second belay boss leaves you down a wide gentle recess in the cliff bounded on each side by two cracks. The left crack is Molten Music. OS Grid Reference: C988446 Click here to view location in Google Maps |
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| The first routes are on the Eastern end of the crag and are easily reached by simple scrambling from that end of the cliff |
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D -Length: 7m Alfie Conn and Trevor Hartley 13/6/10 At the Eastern end of the crag, scramble easily around the bottom of the crag until below an obvious prow above the western edge of an easy angled slab.Climb up to and over the small slab on the left of the prow
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Length: 7m Alfie Conn 27/06/10 Up the crack 2m right of "Right" to an obvious light coloured exit
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Length: 9m Alfie Conn and Lesley Thomson Up the prow immediately to the right of Hamlet
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Length: 10m Alfie Conn and Trevor Hartley May 2010 Right of Hamlet at the top of the cliff is a lozange shaped piece of rock with a double left trending crack on its left and a right trending crack on its right. This ascends the left hand cracks
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Length: 10m Alfie Conn and Chris Boomer 25 July 2010 Up the centre of the lozange
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VD -Length: 10m Trevor Hartley and Alfie Conn May 2010 The right crack around the lozange
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Length: 11m Alfie Conn and Trevor Hartley 6 March 2011 Up the slabs between "Right Branch" and "Fissure Man".
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Length: 10m Alfie Conn and Trevor Hartley May 2010 Up the straight crack to the right of Right Branch
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Length: 12m Alfie Conn and Trevor Hartley 10/10/2010 Start on the right edgeright of a small light coloured slab. Go over a small overhang via a crack and continue to a blunt arete right of "Fissure Man". Up this and the short wall above
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Length: 10m Alfie Conn and Trevor Hartley 20/2/11 Start as for Sea Spray and follow the crack, bearing right as Sea spray goes up the rib. Follow the dirty crack to the two cracks above. Go up whichever looks the least unappealing
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Length: 12m Trevor Hartley and Alfie Conn 6 March 2011 Up the slab just to the right of "YOY". The starting slab is quite steep. Follow the slab to a big ledge below the exit cracks. Step round onto the arete and then to the top
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Length: 12m Trevor Hartley and Alfie Conn Sept 2010 Start just to the right of "sea spray" belaying just on the side of the green slimy stream. Teter over said river and ascend the surprisingly good crack which is a definate improvement from the start! The crack goes to the top near enough.
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Length: 12m Trevor Hartley and Alfie Conn 21 November 2010 Climb the arete on the right hand side of Charon.
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Length: 16m Alfie Conn and Trevor Hartley 21 November 2010 Start as for Jormungand but instead of passing the open book corner, climb it instead!
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Length: 20m Alfie Conn and Trevor Hartley 7 November 2010 Start up the arete on the right of Charon. When it steepens traverse right across the scarred rock. Continue to trend up and right to the top. A good pitch that is a lot better than it looks!
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Length: 20m Trevor Hartley and Alfie Conn 3/6/2012 Start as for "Jormangand" and follow that route to the open book corner. Instead of following the crack, step right onto an exposed traverse line above the slimy gully. Follow this to the corner and step right for a couple of metres above the white streaks to finish up a short crack
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| The next routes can be reached by continuing the scramble from the East over a slimy green seepage line and up to a ledge (this is the ledge on the left of "Craic na Phobia), or by abseiling from the 2nd abseil boss and moving left to the bottom of "Craic na Phobia" and climbing that to a large ledge on the left (Mod) |
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Length: 8m Joseph nTbele and Alfie Conn 13/9/15 Start as for "What's up Doc" and climb the vertical crack. Traverse
left for a few metres and make an awkward step left into a short
vertical crack. Step up this to finish
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Length: 12m Alfie Conn and Trevor Hartley 26/9/10 A meter to the left of "Vasco" is a crack. Climb it, exiting right below the small overhang
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Length: 10m Alfie Conn and Trevor Hartley 26/9/2010 Start as for Craic na Phobia and climb up to the flat ledge on the left. Go up the centre of the wall via finger pockets
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Length: 8m Trevor Hartley and Alfie Conn 7/8/2011 From the base of the crack between the ledges, go up the crack and foot traverse it left to the end.
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Length: 8m Trevor Hartley and Alfie Conn 7/10/2012 Follow the crack to where it bends left and then strike boldly upwards to attain the hole in the wall. Upwards still until you run out of cliff
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| The next routes can be accessed from the Eastern end of the crag as the scramble can be continued by down climbing the easy starting crack of "Craic na Phobia. Alternatively and easier is to abseil from the 2nd abseil boss. |
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Length: 15m Trevor Hartly and Alfie Conn August 2010 Just left of "Scopion" is a crack that starts slightly lower. Follow this easily, passing a wide ledge on the cracks left and then another wide ledge slightly higher up on its right. Follow the steeper crack above.
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Length: 7m Trevor Hartley and Alfie Conn 28/9/2013 It will require great mental strength to avoid taking hold of either the routes to left and right.Between The upper cracks of "Craic na phobia" and "Craicing Wall" is a short wall with a couple of pockets in it. Follow rhe wall to the top. Grade depends on putting side runners in and not using holds from the neighbouring routes
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Length: 15m Trevor Hartley and Alfie Conn July 2010 Follow "Craic Na Phobia" to the higher ledge. Step right and go up the wall. Alternatively follow "Scorpion" and step left on the higher ledge and go up the wall. Either way is excellent
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Length: 20m D. Ryan A. Millar 7.05.04
10m left of Molten Music is a slightly lower smaller ledge with a crack groove leaving it and going between two prows ending at ledges on either side. Climb this passing ledges and following crack leftwards for a crux at the top.
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Length: 12m Alfie Conn and Trevor Hartley 7/10/2012 Just left of the starrting crack of "Scorpion" is an easy angled slab with a leftwards trending crack. Follow this crack. Finish up the corner crack (Scorpion) at the top.
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Length: 7m Trevor Hartley and Alfie Conn 2/9/2012 Just to the right of the finishing crack of Scorpion is an awkward off width crack. Wedging yourself is more secure but the energy expenditure could light up Ulster. Anyway, this provides alternative finishes to Scorpion and Beasties
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Length: 20m J. Sittlington M. Gardiner. 13.06.04 The next groove to the right of Scorpion. Take crack to ledge. Head straight up wall above.
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Length: 20m Unknown but prior to 17/7/2011 Start at the crack right of Beasties and follow it to slab left of the corner of "Hook the Nook". Follow this
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Length: 20m M. Gardiner D Millar 13.06.04
Next groove 2 metres right of Beasties. Climb slabs to leftward trending corner crack which starts at half height.
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| There is now a wide recess in the cliff, down which the abseil descends from the second boss. There is a large ledge at one third height. The crack directly below the abseil is 4a. Beware the grumpy seagull that often nests in the cave. The abseil does not seem to upset it but it doesn't like visitors! |
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Length: 20m A.Millar D. Ryan 7.05.04
Takes the striking left crack in the abseil recess, starting at the base of the crack 5m below the obvious flat ledge, that sits at the bottom of the recess.
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Length: 15m A.Millar D. Ryan 10.06.04 Starts on high flat ledge and takes the rock up between the two cracks in the recess 10m left of slithery Zawn (Abseil Line)
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Length: 20m A.Millar D. Ryan 10.06.04 Next big feature going rightwards. Climbs the obvious deep chimney/ crack 4 m left of Slithery Zawn to the top.
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VS 4bLength: 20m A. Millar J Sittlington 9.06.04 Climb the prow/arete between Seagull Seize and the slithery Zawn via a curving crack that stops at mid-height. Do not escape left or right but continue up arete to ledge before top.
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| The "Slithery Zawn " which you now encounter is actually no more than an awkward step unless the sea is high |
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Length: 20m A Millar A Wilkinson 11.05.05 Takes the series of small ledges and curvy faces up the corner and face just right of Causway (left of the Slithery Zawn)
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Length: 20m Trevor Hartley and Alfie Conn 7/10/2012 A few feet above the death defying chasm of slithery zawn is a blocky overhang. Turn this on the left and follow the thin crack above it and the slab above. This route is between "Groover" and "Slithery Zawn Direct"
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Length: 20m A.Millar + A Wilkinson Right of Causway. Takes the crack and groove from the slithery zawn all the way to the top
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Length: 20m Trevor Hartley and Alfie Conn 15/4/2012 Start below the overhang between the starts of "Slithery Zawn Direct" and "Crafty yachting". Surmount the overhang with a frontal assault and a long reach for a rounded jug. Then continue to the top more easily via the arete
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S 4aLength: 20m A. Millar D Ryan 7.06.04 A few m right of Slithery Zawn.Begins as for Seamore Sweeney and takes the pleasant left trending crack/groove with a bulge low down and reaching a ledge before the top. Very pleasant.
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Length: 20m Trevor Hartley and Alfie Conn 15/4/2012 Climb the arete and wall between "Crafty Yachting" and "Seamore Sweeny"
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VD -Length: 20m D Ryan A Millar 7.06.04
Takes the right hand feature, the straight chimney is climbed to a ledge and onward to the top.
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Length: 20m Alfie Conn and Trevor Hartley 10/7/2011 Climb 2m up "Seamore Sweeney" and then traverse right on an obvious narrow ledge. When the ledge stops, stop traversing and go up to te top. Quite open and pleasent.
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Length: 20m Trevor Hartley and Alfie Conn 20/05/2012 Start up "Wind Up" for three or four metres and then follow small holds up the left wall and thence to the top
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Length: 20m D Ryan A Millar 7.06.04 VD 20m
Starts right of Seamore Sweeney takes the gentle rightward trending groove and it gets steeper higher and follows the obvious line to top.
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Length: 20m Alfie Conn and Trevor Hartley 20/4/2013 Starts just to the right of the groove of "Wind Up"" in the middle of the slab. This is followed to the final steeper wall which is taken to go over the battlements. Avoid using side runners.
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Length: 20m Alfie Conn and Trevor Hartley 15/4/2012 Start a couple of meters to the left of "Battlement Stance" at a small rib. Follow the rib aiming for an obvious fin of rock. Climb this and up to finish through the left hand window
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Length: 20m J. Sittlington A Millar 12.06.04
Abseiling from the first Abseil boss takes you down a corner passing two large ledges and stopping on the third. From here scramble down a few metres left below a crack groove slanting leftwards to a ledge then straightening into a chimney. Follow this to the top and finish at the battlement abseil boss.
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Length: 8m Trevor Hartley and Alfie Conn 23/9/12 Left of the top bit of "Abseil Crack 1" is a short overrhanging niche and crack. Follow this to the top and you finish at the abseil boss. Thios is a one move wonder but fun for all that
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Length: 20m Trevor Hartley and Alfie Conn 7/8/2011 Start at the bottom of the abseil from the first boss and follow the deep crack to the top
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Length: 20m Alfie Conn and Trevor Hartley 7/10/2012 Start at the slab between "Abseil Crack 1" and "Craicsalova". It goes up the slabs between these two routes!
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Length: 20m D. Ryan A Millar 7.06.04
If you land on the third ledge down from the belay boss, there is a short clean crack
Just right that takes you back up to the second ledge. The next route begins here.
Climb crack to ledge, then to next ledge. Finish up obvious crack to top.
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Length: 20m A. Millar D Ryan 7.06.04
Takes arere just right of Craicslova. Follow arete to large ledge. Climb steepish crack (crux) to top.
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Length: 18m Eoin Taylor Sonja Nitecki 06/06/2010 Located in the corner to the left of Period Ant Bites. Follow small cracks on the right up to small roof. Climb over roof and follow obvious crack which curves right towards the top.
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HVS 5bLength: 20m A Millar J Sittlington 12.06.04
Now the ledge fizzles out rightwards but an easy traverse round the corner leads to another ledge at the same level. A straight steep crack is visible on the opposite wall across a narrow zawn. This is Period Ant Bites. Descend easily into zawn to reach base of crack. Climb to top with bulge and crux about 1/3 height. Good gear.
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S -Length: 20m . Millar D Ryan 7.06.04
Move down the the zawn 3m right of Period Ant Bites to a small triangular ledge where you can look up obvious corner. Climb this to the top. Top end of the grade for quality.
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S -Length: 22m A. Millar J Sittlington 12.06.04 From tidal ledge 4 m around the corner from the Spring Tide Ledge climb the rough looking left trending crack. It straightens and widens as it rises. Access is by traverse from Tidal Seas ledge or by abseil.
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Length: 20m Sonja Nitecki & Trevor Hartley 26.05.2012 Start at the same point as Gull but go straight up in a big, obvious crack (only accessible at dry weather, usually there is a stream running down here). Crux toward the top at an overhang but good holds and decent gear makes it a pleasurable climb.
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HVS 5aLength: 22m A. Millar J. Sittlington 12.06.04
Climbs the straight groove/crack on smooth wave washed rock from the Gull belay ledge straight to the top. A fine climb but maybe low in grade.
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S 4aLength: 20m A. Tees D. Ryan S. Cook 13.06.04
Climbs the easy angled by slick corner (at low tide) a few metres right of Summer Ma Cool ledge and continues to steep groove right of bulge to top. Access is via Gull or Black and Tan ledge..
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Length: 20m A. Tees D. Ryan S. Cook 13.06.04
Climbs the groove a few metres left of Black and Tan to ledge. Up the back of that to top.
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Length: 20m A. Millar D. Ryan 13.06.04
The next big feature right of Middle Age Spread is a cauldron shaped ledge, slightly higher than the previous belay ledges. Abseil in here. There is an obvious smooth off width crack moving out from it. This is Black and Tan Climbs smooth off width by steering clear of it and reaching high for ledge on right wall. Follow the good crack more easily to top.
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HS 4bLength: 20m D. Ryan A. Tees S. Cook 13.06.04
Climbs slabby wall a few metres right of Black and Tan. With crux and 5m. Easier ground leads to top
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Length: 12m Trevor Hartley and Alfie Conn 26/5/2013 Start just left of the "Tara Road" and make a rising traverse left across the slab above the gap in the walkway. (This gap is really just an awkward step) Aim for the corner and the edge of the ledge above. The ledge is broad and has two parallel cracks in the wall above. Two mantelshelves up the wall, to the right of these cracks, takes you to the top
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Length: 15m Alfie Conn and Trevor Hartley 4 June 2011 A few metres to the right of "Second Thoughts" is a deep corner/crack. Follow this to the top. Dont get so deep you need a head torch and large gear is helpful.
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Length: 18m Trevor Hartley and Alfie Conn 12/6/2011 On the right wall of "The Tara Road" cleft is a crackline that runs parrallel to the cleft. Follow it to join "Poseidon Point" and finish up the wall.
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Length: 20m Alfie Conn and Trevor Hartley 12/6/2011 At the right end of the ledge step right over the sea and ascend the wall above. Finish up the wall between the cracks
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Length: 15m Alfie Conn and Trevor Hartley Start on the left hand end of the "Wanderers Sight" ledge. Take a leftward and upwards traverse line to a pleasant position overhanging the sea. Join "Poseidon Point" finishing up whatever crack amuses you.
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Length: 20m J Sittlington A Millar 12.06.04
20m right of Black and Tan the cliff turns a corner into the narrowest part of the bay. There is a ledge. From this a crack rises.Climbs the crack from the ledge to another ledge and hence up to the top.
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Length: 15m Trevor Hartley and Alfie Conn 24/4/11 (Easter Sunday) From the same ledge as Wanderers Sight starts on. On the right is a crack leading to a ledge. Then the slightly overhanging crack to the top
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Length: 15m Trevor Hartley and Alfie Conn 6/4/2013 Take the obvious right facing corner and bridge over the overhang
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Length: 15m D. Ryan A Tees 13.06.04
At the Back of the little Bay is an obvious Green Slimy streak where a spring dribbles down the face. A few metres left of Green Slime and 3m right of obvious overhanging corner is a line which is followed pleasantly up, with a crux lower down.
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Length: 15m Alfie Conn. June 2014 The green streak runs down a vertical Crack. From its base follow the left trending crack
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Length: 15m A.Blair C. Colligan 20/10/2012 start between 'One for the Road' and 'Motor Bikes are Death' 2M right of the green slime mentioned in 'One for the Road' on a good ledge. Climb the quick drying wall - (slightly protruding buttress) - following a thin crack to a ledge on good wave washed rock and then easier up a right facing corner.
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HVS 5aLength: 20m D. Millar A Millar 13.06.04 A few metres right of the beginning of Dubious Decisions the ledge narrows and a seam feature goes up the slab, steepening up into a head wall at the top, but also gear improves. Top of grade.
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Length: 18m A. Millar D. Millar 13.06.04
On the other side of the green slime the crag is broken and shorter but as you move right it heightens and steepens. Approach is by abseil from good abseil boss that has been obviously gardened to accommodate a sling. 8 metres right of the slime is a rough looking corner crack feature with an over hang on its left side at 2/3rd s height. (a few m left of a nicer clean corner) Climb this easily to awkward section at and above overhang. Should be graded HS5b.
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HVS 5aLength: 20m A. Millar D. Millar 13.06.04 A few metres right of Motorbikes are Death is a nice clean corner crack feature. Climb corner to ledge. Continue up steep looking next corner from ledge. It isn't as bad as it looks.
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Length: 20m D. Millar A. Millar 13.06.04 Starts on the commodious ledge detached a few feet from the cliff a few metres further right. From commodious ledge climb good thin crack a few metres left of obvious wider crack (that leads to a chossy top groove.) After crack rock slabs for a few metres then steepens to crux top groove. A good ledge is reached after the thin crux sequence. Onward easily and carefully to top,
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Length: 20m D. Millar A. Millar 13.06.04 Climbs the feature right of Wider crack leading to chossy top Groove From right side of commodious ledge climb up slab and then up past a spike of rock, that looks as if it would take a sling (but doesn't) to sloping ledge. Up crack groove at top of this veering left towards top.
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Length: 30m A Millar J Sittlington 24.05.04
Is located 20m right of Bedtime Story when the cliff turns out of the bay to West Crag. Access is by abseil from the good stake at the top of West Crag where it turns round into the bay. Grotty climbing up the easy looking chimney a few metres right of the fine arete found before the cliff turns into the small bay. At 2/3rds height the rock steepens dampens and holds and gear disappears. Traverse right along foot traverse till you hit a part of what should be the top of another well protected climb. Climb this to the top, past a few gulls nests. Deserves a negative star rating! Escape route whilst gripped.
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E1 5bLength: 30m D Millar A Millar 6.06.04 15m right of Shitty Nappy, passing a few other features is a recess with two fine straight corners a few metres apart. Takes the left crack/corner to the top.
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Length: 30m D. Millar M Gardiner 6.06.04
Takes right hand crack thinning in gear towards the top, hence top of grade.
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VS 4cLength: 30m A. Millar J. Sittlington 23.05.04
Just left of Sea Stack, on another ledge a few metres below the ledge beside the stack is visible two long clean corners. A great climb, well protected with small wires that takes the left of the long corners to the top.
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Length: 30m A Millar, D Millar, J Sittlington 6.06.04 Start on same ledge as Dunsevrick Crack. Takes the right hand corner avoids the steeper bolder upper section by subverting rightwards up another crack to a ledge, and up cleaned crack to top.
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Length: 27m A.Millar J. Sittlington. 23.05.04
Climbs the outside left edge of the stack to easier mid slabby section. Traverses right across slab and up to crack near right arete. Climb this to ledge and hence to top. Crux. Lower second down between stack and cliff till ledge on mainland can be obtained. Second sets up belay on mainland. Leader backclimbs from top to good foothold and jumps.
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Length: 25m Alfie Conn and Trevor Hartley 28/4/2012 Start between the base of the mainland and the stack. Follow the line you have just abseiled down ie Climb the wall veering left to turn the overhang
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VS 4cLength: 30m Al Millar D. Ryan 17.06.05 Access is by abseil from obvious block behind the stack (containing Spanish Cigar) down a groove to ledge (and small cave) just above high tide in calm seas.
Start 4m right of small cave at crack in clean black rock. Climb crack to easier rock, move up and left under overhang near rib. Take overhang direct using good jug on lip or move left to rib and up. Make move up right to top of block below straight crack/groove. Climb this, taking care near the top. A good sustained climb.
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S 4aLength: 20m Alan Tees, Bill Magowan 24/05/2010 A few metres West of the back of "Spanish Cigar" descend into an alcove, on the LHS of which is a deep recessed crack (sounds like the start of Rathlin Crack). Climb it to the overhang, step right onto a slab, and continue up into a deep corner crack, which is followed to the top.
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