Back to Logbook Archive for 2006 | Back to Home Page

Dalkey Days 2006

Date: July 2006
Submitted by: Columba McLaughlin

Well it is about time that I added a report before Pete starts whingeing and before you all think that I have been on my backside doing nothing this past few months. I might get the urge to write another before long.

The family were down in Dublin for a week or so and Noel and I decided that late evenings could be made use of with a few wee trips to Dalkey Quarry on Killiney Hill. Overall we lead a few an top-roped others but we tried to climb as much as possible in the shortest time as possible.

As usual we lead off on the world famous Paradise Lost (VD) and then onto Fragile (HS). For those who have never been to Dalkey, these two crimbs are in the West Quarry and are the trade routes of the whole quarry. A lovely little climb called Garnder's Joy (D) is beside these and is quite useful as a descent route as well.

Next on the list and just next to Gardner's Joy was 'Levitation' (HS). This a wonderful short climb with little protection but very sound rock. Of couse, 'Mahjongg' (VS) is a wonderful companion to it and it was a pleasure climbing it again after a 6 year absence. For me, Mahjongg is still a brilliant but scarey climb until you get a number 2 friend into the split borehole and mid length.

Next up was Winder's crack (D) an excellent ascent and descent route or Easy Gully (D) to its left. However, while Noel, as usual, made easy work of Winder's Slab (VS) I surprised myself that I could acttually climb on the slab without slipping. It was so enjoyable that I climbed it twice (albeit with a top rope). However, I have to add that I did it without whimpering or whinging. Noel suggested that Winder's Slab would be a good practice for the Ghost (top rope) but I reckoned that it was a step too far. However, Noel then suggested we try Paul's Edge (HVS). Well truth be told he did on a top rope but I chickened out (top rope or not). I still do not fancy the ankle breaker as yet.

We went over to East Quarry and to the Ghost slab and then climbed Noel's favourite 'Yorkshire Pudding' (HS) and then the 'Honeypot Crack' (S). These are another 2 good climbs. After this we went onto the Pilaster wall area and down 'North Gully' (M) and climbed 'Grave' (S). We then top roped 'Pilaster' (VS) and to my delight I made it up on this occasion. I only whinged once. This is a VS climb with absolutely no protection what so ever. I have seen guys actually walk up it. But I climbed it like an elephant in hob nail boots.

to finish off we went over to the East Quarry to try 'Hiatus' (VS) however, I and Noel were too pumped after being on Pilaster. Hiatus is a brutish climb or so it seemed to us and requires one very exposed mantleshelf. We decided to finish the climbing with a free ascent of 'Drinker's Delight' (VD) and 'Drinker's Direct' (VD). I can truthfully add that each pint that went down afterwards was well deserved.

Slán go hiccup, Columba

Photo of Route