Back to Logbook Archive for 2009 | Back to Home Page

Fair day at the Head

Date: 5th April 2009
Submitted by: Michael Hassan

I was keen to get up to Fairhead on Sunday and so I arranged to meet up with George. It turned out to be a fine day weather wise although it was a bit cold while belaying earlier in the day.

We headed in the direction of the Prow where George led The Fence*** VS (4c) to warm up. You always think you'll zoom up this, but you never do. I then led Fath Mo Bhuartha** E1 (5b). This is straight forward until you hit the crux move and is a little more sustained after that. George was then thinking about maybe Stone Mad. But after I had abbed down he was eyeing up Simple Minds* E1 (5b). He convinced himself to have a go at it, but couldn't quite get the hard move that started the crux section. He lowered off and invited me to try it, and I duly obliged. The climb is short and can be described perfectly in 3 sections. The first and last third are relatively easy, but the middle third is a pure jamming piece and is the crux. It was very physical. After that George breezed up Good Morning Judge HVS (5a) to end our adventures on the Prow, but not for the day.

George was keen to have a go on Hell's Kitchen*** HVS (5a,5a) and I was up for that. It looked like we were probably the first on it this year - a bit green and no chalk marks to show the way. George led the first pitch and I the second. I found it very enjoyable but fretted a bit near the crux after warning's that it was a bit light on gear. But it turned out to be fine after espying a wonderous pocket in the vicinity. After packing up we went to have a nosey at what Ricky Bell et al were up to as they were close by. He had just finished a new awesome looking line weighting in at a cool E8. It was a blank wall and it was protected by a couple of in-situ pegs in the upper sections. Mental.

Anyway, another fine day of climbing, including my first E1 at the Head. Rockin'.


Photo of Route