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July Climbing

Date: July 2011
Submitted by: Alfie Conn

Unusually, for this logbook, I am not going to be describing any feats of derring do or epics of ineptitude. Instead it’s going to be a short bit on what I’ve been up to (on a climbing theme) during July despite the traditional damp weather. It’s interesting that what are described as “traditional” routes are usually watercourses after a slight drizzle.


I am restricted to climbing on Sundays during much of the Summer as my Strawberry farm is open on Saturdays so I do not have the option of choosing the best of the weekend. It is amazing how often this year the weather has been lovely on Saturday and returned to Winter by the next day. I suspect religion is at play here and I would be better off if I gave up bacon sarnies.


Anyway 3rd July saw Trevor and I abseiling down Stelfox Slab at Malin Head. We did “Rebel Yell” and “Dawsons Deidre” Both nice routes with good protection but with finishes that are still under construction. It was a considerable improvement on our foray there in April, when the seas were a tad higher and the rock was a bit more spray covered. That will be Summer rather than Spring then!

 A week later we were planning to be at Malin again but a late weather change forced us to go to Dunseverick instead. It’s a lovely spot, a short drive from my place (even shorter for Trevor) and the “Copper Kettle” in Bushmills does a lovely tea and scones. I can recommend their fried breakfast as well. It’s also a short walk and so all together it’s a good crag when the weather may turn wet. In any wind, other from the North, it is possible to get to sheltered routes even though it can seem exposed when you leave the car.

Anyway, we did some stuff and found chalk marks all over the shop. At least with our Ulster weather those don’t hang around long. By mid afternoon it was raining again.


Trevor was working the next weekend and I posted on the forum for any one to climb with. However all the readers must know me as there were no takers. (Thats supposed to be a joke.) Despite posting on there each weekend I go climbing there has been no interest. If I wasn’t so thick skinned, (or obtuse?), I could take offence. Anyway the weather was pants.

The 24th saw us at Sea Area Malin for a glorious sunny day. Not too hot but T shirts were sufficient. Certainly you didn’t seem to need a very extensive rack. We finished up with “Help the Aged” which while obviously not named for me, did at least have protection. It’s worth a star for that at least.The last Sunday of the month was again a Dunseverick day and proved to be rather unsuccessful with us wimping out on all the routes we tried. Finally God got pissed off with such behaviour and he rained on us. Again. Hopefully we will get a real proper Summer soon.

04 Aug 2011

Alfie, fair play to you for keeping on posting your trips on the forum. That's what it was made for. Like you, I used to persevere in the face of apathy (back in the old days of the Colmcillers).

04 Aug 2011

Alfie - I'd have signed up for one of your days out but I've only managed one weekend on the rock since we met at Easter. I'll not be out again until September

04 Aug 2011

I dont feel so unwanted now! Ive a warm glow in my heart.

06 Aug 2011

I was away! Have been at Malin since I got back, and found some nice short routes on a wee wall just east of Stelfox slab, which are climbable in wet weather (like today for instance)!! Am about to put details on the guide book. What apathy? Also, the cafe Bamba is great!

Photo of Route