Route Number: 1141

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Ploughshare * *

Location: Bingorm West (Lough Barra)
Grade: VS  4c
Length: 62m
First ascent: Miss E Healey, P O'Halpin (Alt leads) (22/5/61
4c, 4a, 4a. This route takes a line up the centre of the Main Face. Start by scrambling up the slanting line of vegetation which reaches highest up the face.
  1. 22m. From the highest (left-hand) side of the strip of vegetation climb diagonally upwards using thin flakes and friction. A short steep wall is followed by a delicate traverse on a horizontal ledge. Up to vegetation and belay.
  2. 18m. Traverse right for 10m on broken rock to a pocked slab on the left.
  3. Continue upwards, using a series of platforms moving right, then left, to avoid a small overhang. Continue up on vegetated platforms, moving left where the walls fall away to a slab. Climb the corner of the slab and finish up a short wall.

Comments

ablair - 07/05/2017
Approached very agreeable via \"Granite Gangway\" and had a decent look at this - I would say no country for old men! Didn\'t fancy the fourty foot run out to the 50 year old? peg, and agree with John - did not look promising above either - even when looking over to it from Formorium (which was a good climb)- not even a micro cam. At least H.V.S

Peter Cooper - 22/08/2011
Hi John, nice choice of climbing venue - sorry the winged-locals got you. I had a very grim time with them too (some time ago now). There is an account of the 1st ascent in one the IMC journals from the 50s'. Betty Healy reckons Padraig's account was a little fanciful but still worth a few minutes of your time. I'd recommend the article for the description of the long run-out and the subsequent thank God peg placement Beyyt found.

John Duignan - 22/08/2011
Attempted this yesterday ; The vegetated approach was full on ; getting to base of climb roped up and found getting beyond the two rusty peg marks very difficult ( allowing for showers , Lichenous wet line above and then midgies !) ; The move looked harder than VS and very commiting with no obvious pro above ; any one climb it recently ? were we at the right start ? Did we just pick a bad time to climb it ?

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