Name: Climbfest 2024
Start: 2024-05-03T00:00:00+00:00
End: 2024-05-06T23:59:59+00:00
Location: Malin Head

Editor: Happy Valli Crag
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Crag Profile: Happy Valli Crag
Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes

Directions: From Ballysadare, head for Ballina and turn left after a few miles (the turn just before Raven Rock Farm sign). You pass a crag just beside the narrow road (climbing there also), and less than a kilometre ahead, Happy Valli, is on your left. Beat your way across, or better still, use a local guide (Valli)who may provide parking and even tea! OS Grid Reference: 650263
01 - 3 Steps to Heather S 4a Length: 15m Alan Tees, Valli Schafer, Angela Carlin 19/09/08 Less than 1m left of 'Prego', is a diagonal stepped corner, which is climbed to a ledge. Continue up on steep rock with good holds in a nice situation View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
02 - Prego S 4a Length: 15m Valli Schaller 15/04/2008 Start 5m left of 'Snow White' move slightly right up wall, through gap in heather ledge, to top. Stake belay. Juggy and well protected. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
03 - Silenzio prego HS 4b Length: 17m I.Krella & Ch.Taylor June 2013 This takes the wall between Prego and Snow white. It starts in the corner as for Snow White and goes up to the small corner ledge. From here leads 2m to the left and then straight up through the middle of the wall. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
04 - Snow White S 4a Length: 20m Valli Schaffer This takes the obvious two tier corner, at the left end of the crag. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

The next routes

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05 - Holy Muck VD - Length: 10m Valli Schafer June 2010 Scramble up to the vegetated ledge between Snow White and Muck on Top, climb the corner behind the holly tree. Nice big steps, well protected. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
06 - Rattenfanger Wall VS 4b Length: 15m Alan Tees, Vlli Schafer, Angela Carlin 19/09/08 This takes the wall between Snow White and Muck on Top. Start in the corner just left of the start of Muck on Top, and climb to ledge. Continue up wall above on small footholds just right of vegetated bank to smaller ledge. Start on small holds on RHS of wall, and move left to good cracks/protection in wall centre, and up right, to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
07 - Muck on Top S 4a Length: 20m Valli Schafer, Alan Tees 17/06/07 Approx 3m left of "Ox Stair" gain a ledge and a leftward rising crack to the bottom of a leaning corner crack. Climb it on good jugs, and continue directly to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
08 - Higher in Time HVS 5a Length: 30m P.Cooper & A. Tees 19/09/08 Start in a niche between starts of 'De Cuellar' and 'Verecker'. Climb up to overlap then traverse delicately leftwards, grade then continuously eases with progress, to finish up the exit crack of 'Muck on Top'; taking the right hand exit. Led on-sight. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
09 - Part Man, Part Biscuit. VS 4c Length: 20m Joe Walls, Valli Schaffer Start 3m right of Muck on Top and climb directly up, through overhang at 3/4 height (crux) to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
10 - Ox Stair VS 4b Length: 20m Alan Tees, Valli Schafer Approx 4m left of the arete of "Vereker" this route gains the shallow right facing corners at half height, and up the vertical wall above using a large "Friend" in a pocket. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
11 - Orange Hat HVS 5a Length: 20m Joe Walls, Valli Schaffer Start midway between Ox-Stair and the arete, through small overhang at mid height, to better holds above. Thinner again to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
12 - Teeling HVS 5a Length: 20m M. Daly, P. Harrington 21/07/07 On the face 1m left of the corner of De Cuellar. Climb delicately to gain a small rib. Gain the crack above and follow it through a bulge to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
13 - De Cuellar E2 5b Length: 25m Martin Daly & Chris McDaid 9th June 2007 Start in the rightward facing corner just left of Verecker. Climb the corner to the base of an overlap. Surmount this to gain a good ledge. Following the crack with increasing difficulty to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
14 - Verecker E3 5c Length: 25m Martin Daly & Chris McDaid 9th June 2007 Start a t the base of the prominent arête left of Colmcille Corner. The route takes the arête. Make one move up the short wall left of the arête and step right to the edge. Climb the arête passing one difficult section to a rest ledge at the base of the final section. Place a small friend in a vertical slot and climb the technical wall left of the arête (crux). Gain a jug on the arête which steady’s one for the final exit moves. Nut and stake belay. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

The next three routes are to the left of the main obvious corner which is climbed by Colmcille Corner
15/ Raven HS 4b
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15 - Raven HS 4b Length: 25m Martin McGuigan, Alan Tees & Valli Schaffer 26/01/08 Start below and right of the left facing corner leading to the large nest on the wall left of "Colmcille Corner". Climb from the lowest point, up and left into the corner, avoiding the nest as best you can. Continue up (airily) on good holds, left of the line of "Dont Touch That Tree" seaching desperately for protection, to the top.This route should only be attempted outside the nesting season, lest ye bring the wrath of the environmental officer (and a very cross raven) down on your head! View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
16 - Dont Touch That Tree E1 5b Length: 25m G.Thomas, Sandra Kennedy, V.Schaffer, 2/09/06 Takes the spectacular crack line to the left of Colmcille Corner. Crux is mid height. Superb route. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
17 - Colmcille Corner HS 4b Length: 25m Alan Tees, Bill Magowan, Valli Schaffer 28/05/06 Takes the most obvious corner on the crag. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

The following routes are all on the wall to the right of Colmcille Corner

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18 - Corcoran's Fightin' Sixty Ninth E2 5c Length: 30m Martin Daly & Brendan Proctor 7th April 2007 2 Metres right of Colmcille Corner there is a short corner. Start just right of this. Climb up by technical moves to the first runner at 7 metres. Continue to the overlap at 2/3 height (good runners). Climb this using a good hold on the right-hand side of the lip of the overlap. Place two poor runners and continue through crux moves to a good ledge and runners. Finish up short corner. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
19 - General Humbert E2 5c Length: 30m Martin Daly & Brendan Proctor 4th November 2006 Start 5 metres right of Colmcille Corner just left of fence. Climb up wall to flake at 4 metres. Climb directly up wall passing horizontal breaks (friend protection). Gain the base of a faint crack. Climb the crack and gain a quartz niche. Climb steeply up bulge to gain good jugs. Surmount the bulge (crux) and get established at the base of crack. Follow to top. Good protection. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
20 - Paddy Alley E2 5c Length: 30m Martin Daly & Brendan Proctor 7th April 2007 Start 6 metres right of Colmcille Corner and 1 metre right of fence. Climb to obvious scoop. Continue to good ledge at base of thin crack. Climb this at first and when it peters out, (½ friend placement on the left) continue up the wall (crux) to rest. Follow the re-emerging crack to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
21 - Poltroons S 4a Length: 22m Alan Tees, Sandra Kennedy, Valli Schaeffer, 2/09/06 About 20m right of "Colmcille Corner" climb one of two short corners, and move up left to reach obvious ledge. Steeper, but well protected, climbing leads directly to a second narrower ledge, from where a series of rightward trending steps leads to a vegetated ledge. Climb directly up clean wall to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
22 - Spider E1 5b Length: 20m Dave Millar & Valli Schaifer This route climbs the wall and overlap between "Poltroons" and "Hellburner". Start 2m left of Hellburner and climb to right hand side of obvious overlap at 1/3rd height. Assemble gear and move diagonally up and left to obvious horizontal break and from here to spacious ledge above. Climb slabby wall left of the Hellburner corner to another ledge and then the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
23 - Hellburner HVS 5a Length: 20m M.Daly & C.McDaid 23/7/08 Just left of Rhiannon, there is a right facing groove/corner. Climb this direct, through the bulge to a spacious ledge. Finish up via heather clad ledges. Very well protected View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
24 - Rhiannon E2 5b Length: 20m Chris McDaid & Martin Daly 9/6/07 This route supercedes the original "Oxtail". Starts 3m left of the isolated boulder. Climb direct to the horizontal break (small cams), then technical and precarious climbing leads up the wall (RP's) through a "corridor", after which the angle relents. The technical climbing ends here, although its worthwhile to continue to the top of the crag via a dense heather ledge and a pleasant short wall of pink granite. Climbed onsight, ground up, no pre inspection or cleaning carried out View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
25 - Eratic Billko VS 4c Length: 10m Chris McDaid & Martin Daly 9/6/07 Starts directly opposite the isolated boulder. Climb the crack direct until a prominent bulge is reached. Layback to the right and thinly pull through the bulge. Climbing ends here, (hence the 10m), but worthwhile to continue to the top via the heather ledges and pink granite described in "Rhiannon". View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
26 - Elizabethan VS 4b Length: 10m C. McDaid & Martin Daly At the crags righthand extremity, there is a huge detached pillar/block. Start just left of this, climb the prominent left trending crack until a sloping leftward ramp is gained. Follow this to heather ledge View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
27 - Oxy-Moron HVS 4b Length: 8m Peter McConnell P.J.Monaghan 17/08/08 This takes a line just left of "Ox-Tail 2", and right of Elizabethan. Pull up into a good pocket, and continue up directly to a slanting ledge. Step left, and climb (unprotected) to the top. The line had a previous ascent but using a knot on the ab rope for protection on the final moves. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
28 - Ox-Tail (Vdiffmearse) S Length: 8m Alan Tees, Valli Schaffer, Martin Boner, 17/08.08 V.Diff my A*** said Valli! The obvious big crack at the right end of the crag. Finish off at the top of the big flake, or continue up the slabs to the top (the first moves off the flake are considerably harder than V.Diff, particularly in the wet). View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

Above and behind the main crag, there is a band of rock, at the left hand of which is a free standing pinnacle.

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29 - Watchtower S Length: 12m Martin Daly & Brendan Proctor 4th November 2006 Above & behind the main crag there is a band of rock. At the left-hand end there is a freestanding pinnacle. The route takes a crack line on the left side of the pinnacle. Climb the crack to an overhang. Climb this, first on the left and then step back into the crack. Follow to top. Scramble off with care. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
30 - Western Corridor HS Length: 12m Martin Daly & Brendan Proctor 4th November 2006 This route is behind the pinnacle at the left end of this band of rock, at the highest point. Climb crack past a few ledges. Nut belay well back. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
31 - Another 800 years HS 4b Length: 10m Olliver Castle, John P. Dunne, Greg Byrne and Ash Corkery 04/06/07 On the clean wall above the main crag. Approx 3 meters to the right of Western Corridor there is a vegetated corner. This route starts two meters to the right on the clean face. Climb on the vertical wall using postive holds and a small crack to a small ledge. From the ledge with a long reach sand climb over the overlap (crux) to a good rest. Easier moves to the top. Nut belay well back to the left (excellent protection) View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

Up behind the main crag and along to the right, there is a 10m high clean wall approx 20m long.
Happy Valley Crag Sligo - The words in the sky tell the whole story
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32 - Space Dust E1 Length: 8m Chris McDaid & Valli Schafer & Cormac Flynn 16th April 2007 A few metres left of "Angel Delight". Climb the crack to a large recess, then climb the crack in the upper short wall technical). Rested on gear on first attempt. Led cleanly ground up at a later date View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
33 - Puzell or Bust E1 5b Length: 8m D Millar, V Schafer - 26th April 2008 This route climbs the wall and crack to the left of Spacedust on the small 10m wall. Climb the short lichen covered wall via good breaks to a ledge at 2/3rds height. Continue up crack above via good holds and gear. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
34 - Restitution E1 5b Length: 10m Martin Daly & Paul Harrington & Chris McDaid 14th April 2007 On the same wall as "Angel Delight". Start approx 6m left of "Angel Delight". Climb the wall and gain the crack at about 3 metres. Following to top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
35 - Sherbet Dip E2 5c Length: 9m Chris McDaid & Dave O'Neill Just right of Restitution, climb the discontinuous broken crack system running up the crag, passing through a couple of horizontal breaks. Unprotected crux on final blank section of wall View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
36 - Angel Delight E2 5b Length: 10m Chris McDaid & Martin Daly & Paul Harrington 15th April 2007 This route takes the faint flared crack leading up to a small right facing stepped overlap. The direct line is taken throughout. Very bold top half. After taking 2 falls, the route was then climbed ground up. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

Ivy Wall - A 10m wall situated in the jungle to the left of Snow White. The wall can be approached through the jungle or better from the top of the crag. From the top go to the free standing pinnacle and walk for 100 m directly towards the nearest visible inlet of the sea. At the top of the wall keep right to descend easily.

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37 - Liberty HVS 5a Length: 9m Martin Daly Brendan Proctor 12/9/2009 Ivy Wall - A 10m wall situated in the jungle to the left of Snow White. The wall can be approached through the jungle or better from the top of the crag. From the top go to the free standing pinnacle and walk for 100 m directly towards the nearest visible inlet of the sea. At the top of the wall keep right to descend easily.LibertyStart: Left of Equality and right of the tree stump. Climb the wall to a small niche and continue to top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
38 - Equality VS 4c Length: 10m Martin Daly Chris McDaid 30/7/2009 Start: below a small tree at the top of Ivy Wall. Climb the wall in the centre to a niche below the top. Finish by way of an off-width crack behind the small tree. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
39 - Fraternity VS 4b Length: 9m Martin Daly Brendan Proctor 12/9/2009 Start a few metres rigth of Equality. Climb the wall to gain 2 faint cracks near the top. Up these to finish. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
40 - From east to west HS - Length: 9m Ivan krella&Valli Schafer&Glen Blaney 8.5.2011 The route starts about 3m right from Equality.Climb the easiest line and step left in the middle of the wall, then contiue strait up to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route