Editor: Owey Island, Torglass Offshore Area | |
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Crag Profile: Owey Island, Torglass Offshore Area |
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Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes |
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Directions: The south west tip of Owey, easily located when you spy 2 islets and a sea-stack off the shore. Routes here, though subject to access problems in less than calm seas, tend to have very good quality granite. OS Grid Reference: 708225 |
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01 - Forked Lightening**
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E1 5bLength: 20m D.Millar & M.Bonner Climbs the strikingly obvious forked lightening crack on the North side of Torglass Island. Paddle out to the island by any means possible. Climb the crack via chimney to start onto ledge then continue up crack as it zig-zags its way up the face, with crux at top. Big gear handy. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
02 - Russian Roulette,
HS 4bLength: 25m Alan Tees, Bill Magowan, 11/08/12 On the north face of Torglass, just East of ‘Forked Lightning’ is a black ramp. This route climbs the ramp on an unusual combination of crumbly holds and quite good protection. Thoughtful and skilful climbing may result in the survival of your belayer, especially if he forgets his helmet. An experience not to be missed! View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
03 - Cordite Cracks
Length: 20m Alan Tees, Valli Schaffer, Bill Magowan, 11/08/12 The South face of Torglass is made up of clean granite slabs of Gola quality, and varying steepness, the most obvious feature, when viewed from the land (Owey that is) is the prominent corner taken by ‘Gun Runner’. Access is via the narrow channel, using inflatable or non inflatable floating devices. Approach on the first ascents were by sea kayak, and inflatable dinghy. A couple of metres east of the big corner taken by ‘Gun Runner’ there is a crack in the slab which disappears at about 5 metres, to be replaces by a thin one. After a couple of thin unprotected moves, the climbing is easier to reach, and overcome, a short steep layback crack at the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
04 - Gun Runner*,
S 4aLength: 20m Alan Tees, Valli Schafer, Bill Magowan, 11/08/12 Layback delightfully up the big corner to about two thirds height, where there is a thin crack on the left (just above the feature after which the route is named) giving access to the slab above. There is a temptation to continue up the corner above, but the exit is sugary and unpleasant. Traverse left across the slab under the overhanging step, and climb a short corner to the top. An option would be to go straight up the slab over a couple of furry unprotected mantles! View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
05 - No Stripes
Length: 30m Alan Tees, Valli Schaffer 23/06/14 Start a couple of metres left of Gun Runner, and climb the deep cracks diagonally rightwards, crossing Gun Runner at the Lugar, and continuing at the same angle over a slab, another diedre, to finish up a steep wall. Beware loose spikes at the top. Poor enough line! View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
06 - Distant Dynamite
Length: 20m Alan Tees, Valli Schafer, Ivan Krella, 23/06/14 .The most obvious feature of the south slabs of Torglass is a deep chimney. This takes the left edge. Nice climbing ( a lot better than it looks from the top). View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
07 - Blunderbuss*,
HS 4bLength: 20m Alan Tees, Valli Schafer, Bill Magowan, 11/08/12 Beyond ‘Gun Runner’ there is a chimney (routes here) which provides an obstacle to traversing along the bottom of the slab. Easier to ab down beyond this , to a big platform. This route takes prominent twin grooves, which steepen and bear left towards the top. At the top the rock becomes sugary in the corner, so make a thin thin step left to the arête, treating the flake with caution. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
08 - Flesh Wound***
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VD Length: 20m Bill Magowan, Valli Schaffer, Alan Tees 11/08/12 Approx 10m left of ‘Blunderbuss’ is a trough, with a deep right to left groove leading into a steep corner, above it. Start just left of the trough, gain the groove and continue up the overlapping corner on great holds and protection. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
09 - Three Muskateers**
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S 4aLength: 20m Alan Tees, Bill Magowan, Valli Schafer, 11/08/12 Beyond ‘Flesh Wound’ is a stepped layback off width, and beyond this a lovely arête sweeps down to the sea. This route starts on the right of the arête, and gains it higher up, on perfect rock, with a slight sting in the tail on the last move! View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
10 - Lady of Owey***
E1 Length: 20m Andrzej Smialy and Party 4/07/03 This is the beautiful granite spire at Torglas. Accessible at low tide, or by boat. UIAA Grade VI+. Details, apparently, left at Cruit Golf Club (they cannot find them). View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
11 - Fracture Stack*
Length: 25m Alan Tees, Ivan Krella This is the original route up Tor Ban, the big stack with an unusual partial window high up. Land right of the cave, and climb the wall on the right. Tons more routes on great granite here! View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
18 - Nautical Folly*
Length: 30m I. Miller, C. Gleeson, M. Boner 27/06/09 At the seaward end of the East facing wall of Fracture Stack (facing the Lady of Owey) there sits a large tidal platform. Climb the prominent right facing corner in the centre of the seaward wall directly above the ledge. Superb rock and holds all the way to summit. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
19 - By Hook or by Crook **
Length: 20m I. Miller S. Read 26/06/10 This route climbs the West face of the leaning tower on "Fracture Stack." Scramble/cave your way to the seaward face of the tower (between the tower and the parent stack) to the massive seaward platforms. At the seaward end of the west face of the tower climb the series of ledges to the left of the obvious roof crack. Micro wires needed. Unwise to land directly on the seaward face. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
20 - White Rage*
Length: 20m I. Miller S. Read 26/06/10 Neptune’s Lair Stack
Grid Ref B707226. This dramatic little stack sits to the North West of Fracture stack and the South East face is an excellent wall of immaculate wave battered cracks and features
This route climbs the most obvious deep crack in the left of centre of the wall. I. Miller S. Read 26/06/10 View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
21 - Caver's Delight
Length: 20m S. Read, I. Miller 26/06/10 On the land ward face of this excellent little stack, climb the groove / face immediately to the left of the monster chimney/gash at the right hand end of the face. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
