Editor: The Crow's Nest

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Crag Profile: The Crow's Nest

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Directions: The Crow's Nest Gr 359 989 Approach from Strabane, turn right for Artigarvan, and at 357 997 turn right up a concrete lane beside a building advertising car wash and Computers. Drive to the end of the lane, park*, and walk up the narrow glen for less than 10 mins to a slight clearing. The Crow's nest is on the near side of a waterfall on the LHS. To access it, there should be a small cairn marking a minor fork in the path, take the fork, and make a rising traverse to the left following the sound of the waterfall. The Crow’s Nest was developed in the early 80s as a climbing venue, but is now totally overgrown, with the exception of one route, co-incidentally the best one in the Glen. *The glen was leased in 1982 by the Ulster Trust for Nature Conservation, who prohibited any activities within its bounds, including climbing. I suspect this lease has expired, but it is now is an ASSI, and whilst there appear s to be no specific ban on activities such as climbing, wholesale cleaning would be undesirable and counterproductive. There are 2 or three quality routes in the glen of historic interest which should be preserved, and there is no reason where these cannot co exist with the flora and fauna, providing those who climb there show respect, and observe the principles of ‘leave No Trace’. It would perhaps be wise not the draw unnecessary attention, so have your bag packed, ropes out of sight etc when you park the car.

OS Grid Reference: 359 989

01 - Sunset Boulevard
* * *
S 4a
Length: 25m
Alan Tees, Richard Smith 9/04/81
  Climb easily up left to a big ledge.  A short steep wall leads to a higher stance under the overhangs, step  up left, across a gap, and gain a short  hand and foot traverse out onto the nose.  Climb the arête on a great situation to the top.  Protection on demand!  Descent is on the other side from the waterfall, look out for a small track down through the trees etc.
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02 - Rigor Mortis
VS 4c
Length: 25m
Alan Tees, Richard Smith 14/10/79
There is one more quality route which is not overgrown.   Before reaching the path fork, a wall is visable on the left, with a small cave (with red letters saying ‘Cave’ surprisingly enough!).  From the cave, exit right (awkward but well protected) onto a wall and climb up through a corner to a grassy ledge, belay.  Continue up the wall above past a tree to the top on small holds and adequate protection.  
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