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Editor: Gola - South West Corner

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Crag Profile: Gola - South West Corner

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Directions: A little beast of a wall is to be found on the SW tip of Goal Island. Outside of high seas the crag is very accessible by foot. Approach, about 15 minutes walk south west from the camp site. Drop down to sea level opposite Torglass and follow the shore past an inlet and some short steep overhanging walls on your left until you reach the hidden corner. To date there are a small selection of good quality climbs ranging from Diff-HVS. A couple of the most obvious quality lines await future visitors better versed in E grades. (routes are described left –right as you face the corner) For the record a small selection of routes have been done by various groups on the short walls a few hundred meters further east of the corner. The main south facing sea cliff opposite Torgalss has seen a bit of development with a number of new routes put up over the summer of 2012.

OS Grid Reference: 268 755

1 - First Steps
D -
Length: 8m
12AUG2011 (S Read, solo)
Up the easy steps on the left had side of the crag
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2 - Reiki my ass
VD -
Length: 8m
12AUG2011 (S Read, solo)
The first direct line up the steps
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3 - Easy Lionel
VD -
Length: 8m
12AUG2011 (S Read, solo)
Start to the left of the small square cut alcove and move up trough a good wee open book corner
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4 - The Beast of Gola
HVS -
Length: 8m
12AUG2011 (S Read, E Ross)
Bridge directly up through the middle of the square cut alcove and make a couple of steep moves to gain the small ledge above (crux), moving up left to finish.  Great fun
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5 - Attila the Thumb
HVS 5a
No length recorded
Stuart Abraham, Ronan Kernan 7/6/13
Starts 2m right of The Beast of Gola. Mantle onto a large ledge and bridge out left to place gear. Climb to the right of the alcove until a tricky step left on side pulls allows a finish as for The Beast of Gola. Harder and pumpier than it looks.
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6 - Follow the craven
HVS -
Length: 12m
12AUG2011 (S Read)
The first slightly overhanging line to the right of the main corner, direct start is harder than the corner on the left.   Well protected but character building climbing gains the small platform at 2/3’rds height, then just head for the top as quick as you can.  
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7 - Dragon Fly arete
VS -
Length: 12m
12AUG2011 (S Read, E Ross)
The main arete on the right and side of the wall, great positive jugs and fantastic climbing all the way.
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8 - Sneaky Pete
HS -
Length: 10m
12AUG2011 (S Read, E Ross)
Start right of the arête, move up through the steep corner to easier final ledge. 
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