Name: Climbfest 2024
Start: 2024-05-03T00:00:00+00:00
End: 2024-05-06T23:59:59+00:00
Location: Malin Head

Editor: Malinbeg (The Island)
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Crag Profile: Malinbeg (The Island)
Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes

Directions: The Island The eleven routes below are all on the small island directly west of the Tower. The routes are all on the east face of the island and are described from left to right (south to north) looking at the island from the tower Awkwardness of access precludes the climbs popularity though there are some good routes. The most practical method is for the climbers to swim across to the southern end, and for gear to be roped across. It is unnecessary to point out the need for calm weather conditions. The routes are described in relation to two platforms, one at the south end. nearly opposite Prawn Zawn, the other about half way along the face OS Grid Reference: G490795 Click here to view location in Google Maps
60 - Leonard's Lament HS - Length: 23m D Walsh, D Keena (30/7/77) Start: At the left-hand edge of the south platform opposite Prawn Zawn. Gain a small obvious platform at 6m by means of a 6m fluted crack. Climb the obvious corner directly above, exiting slightly right. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
61 - SW1/61 Blackjack 23m HVS HVS - Length: 23m T Irving, D Keena (30/7/77) Start: 2m right of Leonard's Lament. Climb directly up the broken rock to the foot of a thin crack in the steep wall at 10m. Step left onto arete and surmount overhang above by means of strenuous mantleshelf. Ascend arete above, finishing just right of Leonard's Lament. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
62 - Trucker VS Length: 23m T Irving (solo) (30/7/77) Start: 2m right of Blackjack. Climb the broken rock directly to the foot of an obvious fat crack in the steep wall. Climb crack, surmounting bulge with hand jams and exit directly above top of crack. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
63 - Clawback HS - Length: 25m D Walsh, T Irving (1/8/77) Start: just right of Trucker. Follow the stepped diagonal and only right weakness in the steep wall above for 17m until it is possible to traverse diagonally left over the steep wall itself, finishing as for Trucker View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
64 - Crows Nest * * HS - Length: 30m D Keena, D Walsh (30/7/77) Start: Above the high-water mark, on the extreme right edge of the same platform, at the foot of twin grooves traversing, diagonally right to the foot of some overhangs. Follow these grooves to the foot of the overhangs where it is possible to traverse right 10m directly underneath the overhangs until this traverse emerges at the foot of a steep wall after 6m. The wall above forms the first of four prominent corners rising vertically from the second platform at the middle of the island. Ascent the slightly overhanging wall in exceptionally airy position on enormous holds for 12m to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
65 - Cannonball Corner * * HVS - Length: 23m T Irvine, D Walsh(1/8/77) Start: At the extreme left of the middle platform directly underneath a violently overhanging corner. The route follows the prominent corner which is the second of the four prominent corners directly above. Ascend the initial overhang awkwardly and strenuously to an off-balance stance. Climb the continuously vertical - corner above by the obvious line. A serious line as protection is only satisfactory. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
66 - Privateer VS - Length: 23m T Irvine, D Walsh (1/8/77) Start: In the middle of the platform to the right of Cannonball Corner, underneath and to the right of the third corner above. Ascend the broken rock easily for 4m, where it is possible to step down and left above an overhang below to a position at the bottom of the third corner. Ascend the foot of the corner very delicately without protection. Follow the corner strenuously to a point 2m below the top where it is necessary to step out of the corner right on very small holds to finish directly above. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
67 - Splash Gordon 23m S S - Length: 23m D Walsh, G Barrett (31/7/77) Climb the easy broken rock and ascend the steep rock to the foot of the fourth corner. Ascent the fourth corner above delicately and airily to exit on top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
68 - H.M.S. Tyrolean S - Length: 14m D Walsh, G Barrett (31/7/77) Start: Extreme right of the middle platform. The climb follows the obvious wide crack on the left of the slab on the right-hand side of the platform. Start at the foot of the crack. Climb the crack on doubtful rock to the crux at 12m and exit on easy ground. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
69 - In Uisce Le Long S - Length: 14m D Walsh, S Long, M Caulfield (6/81) Start: At the corner at the north end of the sound, at the foot of obvious clear cut corner. Climb the corner strenuously, escaping left when the going becomes too tough. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
70 - Nautical Myles HS Length: 14m D Walsh, M Caulfield, S Long (6/81) Climb the short wall on the right-hand side and mantleshelf awkwardly onto ledge. Chimney and bridge up the shallow depression above and stretch to hold over top (crux). View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route