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Editor: Ramore Head, Portrush

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Crag Profile: Ramore Head, Portrush

Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes

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Ramore Head, West End.

Directions: Park at the harbour, or the large car park at the East side of the head, and walk back past the tennis courts, onto the cliff edge until 2 abseil rings are reached. Ab off the one nearest the harbour to a large non tidal platform. The climbs are East of the abseil descent. The rock is nobbly, dries quickly, and is much sounder than popular opinion would have it. There is much potential for more routes,(subject to abseil inspection) but belays on the top are a problem. Not climbed on very much, due mainly to its proximity to Fair Head, but would probably have its own guide book were it in Belfast. Anyone with any more information on Ramore, contact atees@dawsonwhyte-nw.co.uk

OS Grid Reference: 853410

01 - Rapeller
D -
Length: 20m
not known
Climb easily up the abseil Route.
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02 - Sharks Arete
S 4a
Length: 20m
not known
Two metres left (East) of the abseil route, climb bulging arete and crack line which splite the tower above.
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03 - Constipated Donkey
VD -
Length: 20m
not known
A couple of metres East of Shark's Arete, there is a prominent chimney, just over half way up the face. Climb up to gain the chimney, which is bridged to the top.
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04 - First Corner
*
S 4a
Length: 20m
not known
3M East of Constipated Donkey, is an obvious corner, facing roughly towards the harbour. Bridging above. There is a belay ring at the top for this, and Constipated Donkey.
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05 - Harbour Lights
VD -
Length: 20m
not known
Climb Pillar, 2-3 metres left of "First Corner" and up wall to the top.
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10 - Lemon Peel
HVS 5a
Length: 25m
not known
Takes the right hand crackline, across the inlet, North of the abseil point and about 30m beyond "Strawberry Jam"
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11 - Orange Peel
VS 4c
Length: 25m
not known
The impressive crackline just left of "Lemon Peel"
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12 - Merve
VS 4b
Length: 8m
not known
Approx 200m North, from the abseil ring, the ground descends to a gully, which is awkward to get down. Immediately at the bottom left of this, are two straight vertical cracks. Climb them.
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13 - Skerry Arete
S 4a
Length: 10m
not known
Surmount arete a couple of metres beyond "Merve"and climb deep cracks above.
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AC2/0 - Temptation
VS 4c
Length: 20m
Sonja Nitecki, Eoin Taylor 06.05.2013
Follow a thin crackline right of the Constipated Donkey up to an overhanging bulge on the exposed face. Climb over the overhang on little pinch-holds without escaping to cracks on either side (those are only used for gear or as an easier variation of the route).
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