Name: Midsummer trip
Start: 2024-06-21T00:00:00+00:00
End: 2024-06-23T23:59:59+00:00

Editor: Malin Head ,Skildren Mor.
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Crag Profile: Malin Head ,Skildren Mor.
Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes
Skildren Mor - Hopefully a bit clearer than the last topo, which was taken into the sun.
Directions: The huge sea stack just off (Sea Area crag) Malin Head. Descend as for Sea Area Malin, and cross the zawn whatever way you can. The removal of access from the mainland opposite, has made climbing there even more problematic. Best plan is to either kayak in from as close as possible, or take a dinghy down to the end of the Prockagh promontary, and paddle over. Very calm seas required. The easiest ascent is right, up easy shattered rock to a grassy ledge, and traverse left over a quartzite ledge and slab to steep grass and rock leading to the top. The North Wall gives superb climbing on sound, black rock, whilst the North Eastern side is higher, more committing, but with more dubious quality rock. This is a fragile environment, with birds nesting from April until the end of July, therefore if visits cannot be avoided they require a high degree of sensitivity to the needs of nesting birds. OS Grid Reference: C383592 Click here to view location in Google Maps

To the right of 'Naughty Corner' is a steep face bounded on its right is a corner crack, this is 'Muintear na Mara'.

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On the side seen from the climbs in 'Sea Area Malin'.

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01 - Gannetts Nest VD - Length: 120m Martin Mc Guigan ; John Joe Mc Cullagh 19/8/06 Cross the sea channel at the narrowest point to get to the bottom of the stack . Climb up vertically just under a Gannett’s nest on good jugs. Traverse left over Quartz and loose rubble to a loose belay. Continue traversing up over a sound ramp to a corner, belay. Scramble to the top from here. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

Once over the summit and onto the North Side (unseen from the Land) the real climbing begins! Described left to right.

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00 - Lichen oul' Wreck D - Length: 8m Bill Magowan, Alan Tees 4/08/12 The zig zag descent down the north side goes right, then left, but at the turn there is a corner with an obvious crack in it. Short, furry and sweet back to the top. Nice, but all the routes here are good. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
00 - Poser S 4a Length: 8m Alan Tees, Bill Magowan 4/08/12 One metre left of ' Lichen Oul Wreck' climb onto the arete and continue to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
02 - Pretty Polly S 4b Length: 10m P.Cooper & P. Tees 09/09/07 As you look down from the top of the descent scramble towards the right (North-East) a slabby face can be spotted across a wee chasm. Scramble down, climb goes from bottom to high point of this pleasantly angled slab with plenty of gear. Top of the slab forms a perfect belay spike for longer slings. I recommend the 2nd be secured against possible freak (big) waves, or a high sea, if your'e determined to get this line and you have a belayer who is very supportative (or possibly suicidal). View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

To the right of the descent is a face bounded on its right by a right angled corner

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03 - Tales from the Abyss * * E1 5b Length: 26m D.Millar, G.Thomas & P.Cooper Sept. 2007 This route takes the wall and shares the middle section of the Poseidon Adventure. Belay in corner at base of Poseidon Adventure. Climb the rightward trending crack 3m left of corner to sloping ledge as for Poseidon Adventure. Climb crack on left wall to obvious ledge at half height. Step back right onto wall and continue upwards with the aid of the left arête to stepped ledges and the top. Again probably needs a second ascent to confirm the grade. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
04 - The Poseidon Adventure E1 5c Length: 20m Dave Millar & Peter Cooper Sept. 2007 This route takes the first corner right of the descent ramp on the left hand side of the main north facing wall (see topo). At base of descent ramp step across to ledge at base of corner (belay in corner). Climb the layback corner crack to niche, crux, then reach left to sloping ramp on left wall. Climb the crack on the left wall and corner to the top. Belay on large spike/flake 3m back from top of corner. Needs a second ascent to confirm the grade! View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
05 - Forever Young HS 4b Length: 25m Alan Tees, Martin McGuigan9/06/07 From the slight col at the top of the island, descend to the North by a zig zag ramp to the slabs at the base of a black north facing wall. This is the "North Wall". Going West, this route is the first of two obvious twin lines which lead up to beside a rancid pool on the top. Superb, with a gymnastic start. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
06 - Grey Guillermot HS 4b Length: 25m Martin McGuigan, Alan Tees 7/06/07 Just right of "Forever Young" this takes a narrow chimney to a ledge, strenuous climbing for a few metres, easing a bit towards the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
07 - Dancing on Blades HS 4b Length: 25m Alan Tees, Martin McGuigan 7/06/07 4-5m right of "Grey Guillermot" a tip toe stretch gains a good hold and then a left trending ramp, which then switches direction on good jugs and gear. Solid and superb! View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
08 - The Naughty Corner HS 4b Length: 20m Andrew, Peter & Alan Tees Aug. 07 This is the prominent colourful corner right of "Dancing on Blades". Looks unattractive, but is actually solid, well protected, and usually dry. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

To the right of 'Naughty Corner' is a steep face bounded on its right by a crackline, this is 'Muintear na Meara'.

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09 - Muintear na Meara E1 5b Length: 30m P.Cooper & D. Millar 10/06/07 The prominent leftward facing corner, to the right of Phoenix. The climbing gets thinner and more sustained, with little for feet or hands on the slabby face; then you reach the crux. Belay on comfy ledge above, so you can clearly see your 2nd, 2nd then climbs above for approx 4 metres to final belay. There's a nice bouldery below the big ledge but is probably best left out; to assist belaying. I'd suggest a couple of stars for this one. Enjoy. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
10 - Phoenix HVS 5a Length: 25m Martin McGuigan, Alan Tees, 7/06/07 Right of "Dancing on Blades" is a damp corner, and right of this again is a prominent chimney/corner (with a leftward trending overlapping corner on its left). Climb the chimney using the corner and its right edge. At the top, a thin step left leads to a line of small holds to the top. Brilliant! View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
11 - Tutter Nablets E1 5b Length: 35m P.Cooper & D. Millar 10/06/07 Takes a rightward diagonal line on the face right of Phoenix. The line starts up the right arete of Phoenix's corner/chimney, where you meet a diagonal crackline; then step out onto the face. The route follows this crackine, 'vaguely', giving some sustained and brief bits of exposed climbing; finish is direct up the face. Due to the isolated nature of Skildren Mor an abseil inspection was done 1st and is recommended for any route here. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

The next route is at the end of the face in a corner, the top of which is bounded on the right by a pinnacle.

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12 - Puffin 'n Blowin S 4a Length: 25m Martin McGuigan. Alan Tees 7/06/07 Right of "Phoenix" is an obvious corner, where the crag base drops to a lower level. This takes the initial layback crack, steps left, takes the next corner (awkward) and goes up the left wall. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
13 - Basking with Shark HS 4a Length: 30m Martin McGuigan, Alan Tees 7/06/07 Beyond "Puffin & Blowin", descend and climb the first shallow corner to a thin quartzite vein and the top. Protection just adequate! View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
14 - Extreme Camping S 4a Length: 30m Alan Tees, Martin McGuigan, 8/06/07 The next corner right of "Basking with Shark". Variations possible. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route