Editor: Winter Routes. Poison Glen | |
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Crag Profile: Winter Routes. Poison Glen |
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Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes |
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Directions: OS Grid Reference: B9416 Click here to view location in Google Maps |
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1 - Never Ever Again!
Length: 80m Iain Miller 01/12/10 Starting at the skyline ridge at the far left of the above Castle Face photo, climb up to the first steep rock band and make a thrutchfest type move up the wide crack at it's left end. Climb towards the huge hanging roof block, traverse (teeter) leftward to gain the right facing corner and ascend to the salvation of the huge platform above "Culham Rib." View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
2 - Giggle Gully
Length: 170m Iain Miller 01/12/10 Approx. 60m to the East of the start of "South Gully," climb this thinner gully to a divide, climb the left fork up a steep chimney or boulder grovel up the right fork with an un-nerving "cut loose" moment, these mini gullies reconvene and join "South Gully." Climb South Gully for 50m to a further divide of three exit gullies take the steep left fork to the huge flat expanse above "Culham Rib." View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
3 - South Gully
Length: 250m Not Known This is the obvious gully on the left of the Castle, in the Poisoned Glen. There is one short step, otherwise straightforward. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
4 - Central Gully
Length: 300m Not known Start up Castle Gully, fork left, and follow steep gully up the centre of the Castle. Has been climbed, but no ascent in proper winter conditions known. Grade III or IV probably, depending on the line taken View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
5 - Castle Gully, Poisoned Glen
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II Length: 400m Alan Tees, Martin McGuigan, Valli Schafer, Emmet Johnston, Columba McLaughlin 9/01/10 This is the deep rightward curving gully starting just left of Green Grass Gully in the Castle. Mainly straightforward, with a chimney two thirds way up, and a narrow rock chute at the top. Have been up this many times over many winters, but this is this first time I have done it in proper winter conditions, the iced up chimney makes it Gr 2. A great outing!! View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
- Ear Lickers Gully
III 3cLength: 380m Iain Miller, Oscar Millson 08/12/10 Start up "Castle Gully" until it sweeps round to the right behind the Castle Face. At the convergence of "Castle Gully" and "Central Gully" take the gully on the right up through a very steep ice boulder problem and follow the gully above to the summit. After the initial hard start the gully eases for 50m and the final 50m is very steep with a slightly overhanging boulder choke finish. A full body pump is guaranteed! :-) View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
6 - Green Grass Gully
Length: 100m Not Known The obvious shorter,steep gully to the right of Castle Gully. Steep rocky steps. Ab into Castle Gully at the back. No ascent in true winter conditions known. Climbed by Gibson McMurray in 1950. Possibly IV? View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
7 - No.1 Gully
Length: 100m Peter McConnell, Keith Monaghan 8/01/10 A two pitch, deep, gully at the right hand edge of the Castle View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
8 - No. 2 Gully
II Length: 100m Peter McConnell, Columba McLaughlin, Keith Monaghan 8/01/10 The next gully right of No.1. A short vertical pitch of 5m, followed by steep ice/frozen heather to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
9 - Arctic Tern
III Length: 12m Martin McGuigan, Valli Schafer, Emmet Johnston, Columba McLaughlin, Alan Tees 9/01/10 This is the short ice wall about 100m down from Windy/Bearnas Gap in the Poisoned Glen, on the LHS as you descend. Climbed from the lowest (right) side. Gr 4 from the left. Previously known as "Blue Tit! View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
10 - Sruahn na Bearna
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IV 4aLength: 450m Iain Miller, Alan Tees 08/01/10 Grid Ref B943165. This route climbs the multipled falled stream immediately to the West of the Bearnas Buttress in the Poison Glen. The main stream course is followed with several grade IV pitches in succession. The route follows the stream through the excellent & huge summit gully and up a final boulder choke to salvation. A strenuous and commiting route. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
11 - Slu-ice
Length: 400m Alan Tees, Paul Robinson, 1991 This takes the drainage line directly up from the top of Australia Slab. On the right hand side of the area between Bearna's buttress and West Buttress climb mixed grooved granite (and hopefully some ice), until a big heathery rake is gained, which leads off leftwards. Ignore this, and continue up a narrow gully under a big overhang and up a chimney (the best bit) to the top. Mixed III View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
12 - Gully of the Ghouls
II Length: 120m Iain Miller, Oscar Millson 20/12/10 Grid Ref B937168 This superb gully is clearly shown on the OSi map. Approach the Poison Glen from the Dunlewy Side, at the juncture of the three streams (GR B944169) head West and up into the sky line gully. Climb the gully with continued interest till the very top. Mainly steep Grade I with 2 near vertical ice walls. If banked up this gully would be a classic Grade I climb. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
