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Editor: Winter Routes. Poison Glen

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Crag Profile: Winter Routes. Poison Glen

Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes

Photo of crag from the photo gallery
The Castle, Poisoned Glen - A well defined Castle Buttress in the Poisoned Glen

Directions:

 

 

OS Grid Reference: B9416

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1 - Never Ever Again!
III 3c
Length: 80m
Iain Miller 01/12/10
 Starting at the skyline ridge at the far left of the above Castle Face photo, climb up to the first steep rock band and make a thrutchfest type move up the wide crack at it's left end. Climb towards the huge hanging roof block, traverse (teeter) leftward to gain the right facing corner and ascend to the salvation of the huge platform above "Culham Rib."  
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2 - Giggle Gully
II
Length: 170m
Iain Miller 01/12/10
 Approx. 60m to the East of the start of "South Gully," climb this thinner gully to a divide, climb the left fork up a steep chimney or boulder grovel up the right fork with an un-nerving "cut loose" moment, these mini gullies reconvene and join "South Gully." Climb South Gully for 50m to a further divide of three exit gullies take the steep left fork to the huge flat expanse above "Culham Rib."  
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3 - South Gully
I
Length: 250m
Not Known
This is the obvious gully on the left of the Castle, in the Poisoned Glen. There is one short step, otherwise straightforward.
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4 - Central Gully
III
Length: 300m
Not known
Start up Castle Gully, fork left, and follow steep gully up the centre of the Castle.  Has been climbed, but no ascent in proper winter conditions known.  Grade III or IV probably, depending on the line taken
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5 - Castle Gully, Poisoned Glen
* *
II
Length: 400m
Alan Tees, Martin McGuigan, Valli Schafer, Emmet Johnston, Columba McLaughlin 9/01/10
This is the deep rightward curving gully starting just left of Green Grass Gully in the Castle.  Mainly straightforward, with a chimney two thirds way up, and a narrow rock chute at the top.  Have been up this many times over many winters, but this is this first time I have done it in proper winter conditions, the iced up chimney makes it Gr 2.  A great outing!!
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- Ear Lickers Gully
III 3c
Length: 380m
Iain Miller, Oscar Millson 08/12/10
Start up "Castle Gully" until it sweeps round to the right behind the Castle Face. At the convergence of "Castle Gully" and "Central Gully" take the gully on the right up through a very steep ice boulder problem and follow the gully above to the summit. After the initial hard start the gully eases for 50m and the final 50m is very steep with a slightly overhanging boulder choke finish. A full body pump is guaranteed! :-)     
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6 - Green Grass Gully
IV
Length: 100m
Not Known
The obvious shorter,steep gully to the right of Castle Gully.  Steep rocky steps.  Ab into Castle Gully at the back. No ascent in true winter conditions known. Climbed by Gibson McMurray in 1950.  Possibly IV?
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7 - No.1 Gully
II -
Length: 100m
Peter McConnell, Keith Monaghan 8/01/10
A two pitch, deep, gully at the right hand edge of the Castle
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8 - No. 2 Gully
II
Length: 100m
Peter McConnell, Columba McLaughlin, Keith Monaghan 8/01/10
The next gully right of No.1. A short vertical pitch of 5m, followed by steep ice/frozen heather to the top.
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9 - Arctic Tern
III
Length: 12m
Martin McGuigan, Valli Schafer, Emmet Johnston, Columba McLaughlin, Alan Tees 9/01/10
This is the short ice wall about 100m down from Windy/Bearnas Gap in the Poisoned Glen, on the LHS as you descend. Climbed from the lowest (right) side.  Gr 4 from the left.  Previously known as "Blue Tit!

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10 - Sruahn na Bearna
* *
IV 4a
Length: 450m
Iain Miller, Alan Tees 08/01/10
Grid Ref B943165. This route climbs the multipled falled stream immediately to the West of the Bearnas Buttress in the Poison Glen. The main stream course is followed with several grade IV pitches in succession. The route follows the stream through the excellent & huge summit gully and up a final boulder choke to salvation. A strenuous and commiting route.
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11 - Slu-ice
III
Length: 400m
Alan Tees, Paul Robinson, 1991
This takes the drainage line directly up from the top of Australia Slab.  On the right hand side of the area between Bearna's buttress and West Buttress climb mixed grooved granite (and hopefully some ice), until a big heathery rake is gained, which leads off leftwards.  Ignore this, and continue up a narrow gully under a big overhang and up a chimney (the best bit) to the top. Mixed III
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12 - Gully of the Ghouls
II
Length: 120m
Iain Miller, Oscar Millson 20/12/10
Grid Ref B937168 This superb gully is clearly shown on the OSi map. Approach the Poison Glen from the Dunlewy Side, at the juncture of the three streams (GR B944169) head West and up into the sky line gully. Climb the gully with continued interest till the very top. Mainly steep Grade I with 2 near vertical ice walls. If banked up this gully would be a classic Grade I climb. 
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