Name: Glencolmcille Climbfest
Start: 2025-05-02T08:00:00+00:00
End: 2025-05-05T17:00:00+00:00

Editor: Scalp na gCapail
What would you like to do today?
Add a route to this crag	Add an inter-route note to this crag
Delete routes on this crag	Update the order of routes on this crag
Edit the details of this crag	Return to the editor homepage

Crag Profile: Scalp na gCapail
Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes

Directions: This gneiss crag is situated in the Ox mountains in County Sligo (Grid Ref 642278), Sheet 25, Collooney. Take the road from Ballysadare to Ballina. Turn onto a minor road on the left after 3 km ,signed for Cooney (L6102) leads shortly to this roadside crag in the townland of Collooney (if you continue on the road it will lead to Happy Valli crag). The original routes were focused on the triangular face more visible from the road, but more recently ( 2018/19) cleaning has produced more routes on the left side of the cliff. Routes are described left to right. OS Grid Reference: 642278
1 - Santa Maria de Vison HS 4a Length: 20m M.Daly, B.Proctor 6.10.18 The route takes the LHS of the wall. Climb square cut ledges on the LHS of the wall to where it steepens. A few technical moves lead to good jugs and the top. Good protection. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
2 - Garda Siochana HS 4b Length: 20m C. OFiannachta, H.Doherty 13.05.19 Start 2m right of Santa Maria on good steps, moving slightly right and up to quartz feature. Good pockets and gear lead to a series of ledges and cracks to below a tree. Follow cracks and left of tree to where it steepens. Pass a small tree and thin crack and mantle headwall (crux) to heather ledge. Finish up a small bank. Very good protection and variety of holds. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
3 - Juliana VS 4c Length: 25m M.Daly B Proctor 29.09.19 A further 8m to the right there is an overhang at mid height and a second overhang near the top. The route climbs through the middle of the two overhangs. Move up to the lower overhang and climb through it. Continue up the wall to a stance below the second overhang. Climb to the crack in its centre and gain jugs above. Mantle over it to the top (crux). View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
4 - Lavia E1 5b Length: 25m M.Daly, B.Proctor 29.09.19 Start 2m right of 'Juliana'. Pull up onto wall by difficult moves and climb diagonally rightwards to stance below faint crack. Move up to base of bulge. Climb this strenuously (crux) to a good rest. Continue to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
5 - Firestarter HVS 5a Length: 20m C. O'Fiannachta, J Gilmore 13.05.19 Three metres right of Lavia, this route takes the most direct line through the steep head wall/bulge at mid height. Climb up the niche and bridge left to a good stance below head wall. Give the wall a hug, arrange protection and make two bold moves to surmount this, to good holds and a rest. Finish up the slabby wall. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
6 - Bealach An Laoch Suaimhneach VS 4c Length: 20m C.O'Fiannachta, J Gilmore 13.05.19 Two metres right of Firestarter, start at the small undercut. Climb up and slightly right of a human sized notch. Up onto slab and straight up towards the overhang. Make a committing move to surmount this (dont step right). Have a rest and continue up the middle of the slabby wall to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
7 - An Domhan Nua S 4a Length: 20m C. O'Fiannachta, H. Doherty 27.04.19 Climb the stepped tongue on good holds up onto spacious ledge. Make your way up into the twin cracks (good gear) and onto another ledge, from here make an awkward move up and over slight bulge and straight up stepped corner groove. Small gear on top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
8 - Under the Carpet HS 4c Length: 20m C.O'Fiannachta, I. Krella May 17 Start 3m left of Moore Street Trader. Climb the bulge and stay left of neighbouring route unti joining is necessary at two thirds height. Finish as per Moore Street Trader. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

The main feature of the crag is a prominent triangular face, split by three obvious lines. The leftmost one is taken by Moore Street Trader.

Edit note Upload a new photo for this note
9 - Moore Street Trader HVS 5a Length: 25m M.Daly & C.McDaid 27th April 2007 The main feature of the crag is a prominent triangular face split by three obvious crack lines. The leftmost one is taken by this route. Climb the left slanting crack to the top. Hard start and finish. Stake belay. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
10 - Polish Paddy VS 4c Length: 25m M.Daly & C.McDaid 27th April 2007 This route climbs the central crack through a small roof and follow directly to the top, finishing up a small slabby wall. Stake belay View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
11 - Ganger Gaffney E2 5b Length: 25m M.Daly & C.McDaid 4th June 2007 Halfway between Polish Paddy & Tweezer, climb through the horizontal break then up a precarious slab (protected by no5 nut in slot) through the faint overlap/break and then up a left trending crack to join the neighbouring routes in the upper section. Stake belay View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
12 - Tweezer VS 4c Length: 25m C.McDaid & M.Daly 27th April 2007 Climb the rightmost crack with an awkward initial section. The route gradually traverses leftwards in the upper section to join the slabby wall of the previous route. Stake belay View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
13 - God of Strathyre E1 5b Length: 13m C.McDaid & D.O'Neill 28th April 2007 On the left wall of the right arête of the triangular face, there are two faint crack lines. Climb these with minimal protection until a large scoop is gained. Don’t use the arête!! Belay on the tree on right hand side and abseil off. Abseil tat in situ View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
14 - Postie Pornstar S 4a Length: 20m C.McDaid & M.Daly 4th June 2007 The arête immediately right of God of Strathyre is climbed direct, with a step right at half height. Continue up the arête. Stake belay. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
15 - Hanging Tree Chimney S - Length: 25m G.Foley 9th Oct 1976 Takes the chimney to the right of "Postie Pornstar". Up chimney, step left at the top, good holds to a tree. Continue to the top. Peg belay 3m back from the edge. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
16 - Tadpole Creek D - Length: 25m G.Foley 9th Oct 1976 Start right of Hanging Tree Chimney. Scramble easily leftwards to a heather ledge. Climb a series of cracks and ledges to the top. Peg belay. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
17 - Teach Urlar HS 4b Length: 17m M.Daly & C.McDaid 9th June 2007 Further right there is a wall seamed by three cracks. The first two cracks share a common start before splitting after two metres. The leftmost is taken by this route. Climb the leftward trending blocky crack, traverse right when the heather is reached and top out. Stake belay View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
18 - Floozy in the Jacuzzi VS 4c Length: 17m M.Daly & C.McDaid 4th June 2007 The adjoining crack is climbed direct until a rightward facing groove is gained. Climb this and top out through heather. Stake belay. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
19 - Crack Cocaine VS 4c Length: 17m M.Daly & C.McDaid 4th June 2007 One metre further right is another crack, climb it direct to another heather top out. Stake belay. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route