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Editor: Cruit Island - Farmhouse Crag

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Crag Profile: Cruit Island - Farmhouse Crag

Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes

Photo of crag from the photo gallery
Farmhouse Crag, Cruit - Farmhouse Crag Topo provided by Iain Miller

Directions: Four Hundred yards past the entrance to the thatched cottages, behind and below a 2 storey farmhouse, there is a buttress at the Northern end of a small beach. Climbs are described left to right.

OS Grid Reference: B732217

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- Day Pass
VS -
Length: 10m
'Drew Smiley, Nial Browne Climbfest 2010
As for Weekend pass, but follow the cracks right at 2/3 right to an awkward fist jam and over block to top.
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- Weekend Pass
HVS -
Length: 10m
'Drew Smiley, Nial Brown, Climbfest 2010
At the left hand end of the main face the return face is accessible at high tide.  In the middle of this face is a fist crack.  Bloody jams straight up this to top!
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1 - Momentary lapse of Reason
S 4a
Length: 12m
I. Miller, C. Gleeson 16/08/09
Climb the blunt Arete immediately to the left of the grim open book corner to the left of the crag. Steeper than it looks!
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2 - Easy Pieces
E1 5b
Length: 12m
Michael Hassan, Alfie Donnelly 1/5/2010
Just to the right of the obvious open book corner is a leftward trending crack line that runs all the way to the top. This route take that line. Good nut placement at about half height that is a little tricky to place. Couple of difficult moves then follow. Top a bit crumbly on first ascent.
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3 - all chalk and no action
HVS 5a
Length: 12m
H.Hennessy K.McGee 2/5/2010
climbs the righthand crack four meters left of seb. climb 7 meters untill the crack veers left reach out right to the arete and make an awkward mantle onto a good ledge move back left and finish more easily.
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4 - headrush
HVS 5a
Length: 12m
H.hennessy 1/5/2010
start three meters left of seb under a small overhang at 4 meters. climb past the overhang to good ledges follow these to top.
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5 - Seb
VD
Length: 13m
E Hackett,V Kelly 03/08/85
The wide crack with the large chock-stone jammed near the top
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6 - Ribbly Runner
VD
Length: 13m
R Higgins,D Walsh (5/8/85)
The rib immediately right of Seb.
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7 - Cois Farraige
HS
Length: 14m
V Kelly,E Hackett 03/08/85)
Why is this name so popular? The crack just right of Ribbly Runner. The crux above the horizontal break
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8 - Cruitical
VS
Length: 14m
D Doyle & G Moss 03/08/85
The crack which starts about 3m (10ft) up, 2m right of 'Cois Farraige'. Crux above break.
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9 - Sandboy
S
Length: 13m
G Moss,D Doyle (3/8/85)
The right edge of the face. Above the break, climb either or both twin cracks. The choices are endless.
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10 - Scavenger
D
Length: 13m
P Conroy,M Lynch (5/8/85)
The groove with rock fins right of Sandboy
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11 - Happy Bunnies
D -
Length: 13m
I. Miller, M. Boner 01/01/09
The very wide groove 2 metres to the right of Scavenger.
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12 - First Blood
D -
Length: 13m
M. Boner, I. Miller 01/01/09
The next deep groove a metre to the right of "Happy Bunnies."
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113 - Happy Bunnies 2
D -
Length: 13m
I. Miller, M. Boner 01/01/09
The deep groove a metre to the right of "First Blood."
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14 - Beachboys
D
Length: 13m
R Cole, O Creegan (5/8/85)
The penultimate groove at the right of the buttress.
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15 - Zola
D
Length: 12m
EHackett, VKelly(3/8/85)
The groove just left of the rib at the right-hand end of the buttress.
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16 - Rising Damp
HS 4b
Length: 12m
I. Miller, C. Gleeson 16/09/09
Climb the rib edge to the right of the "Zola" groove, a thought provoking top-out.
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17 - Grunt N Roar
HVS 5a
Length: 10m
I. Miller, C. Gleeson 16/08/09
Climb the monster roof to the right of the crag.
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17a - Out of Limbo
S -
Length: 10m
G. O'Sulliven, S. McErlean 4/5/2013
Start as for Grunt N'Roar; go up to roof but then escape right up the corner for a few moves before returning to the arete.
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