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Editor: End's of the Earth Crag

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Crag Profile: End's of the Earth Crag

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Ends of the Earth Crag -

  1. Groovy Gully mod
  2. The Slippery Slope VD
  3. Caoimhe's Corner VD *
  4. Dimples Direct VD
  5. Ripples Direct S *
  6. Sonic Boom VS 4c **

Directions: This hanging slab of immaculate Quartz sits at the seaward tip of the Northern wall in the lonely and scenic Glenlough Bay. Access is a 3.5km clifftop walk from the An Port road end followed by a short exposed scramble down to the top of the crag.

OS Grid Reference: G567912

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1 - Groovy Gully
D
Length: 35m
Iain Miller, Caoimhe Gleeson 29/05/09
The huge groove at the left end of the slab.
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2 - The Slippery Slope
D
Length: 35m
Iain Miller, Caoimhe Gleeson 29/05/09
Climb the centre of the dimpled slab to the right of Groovy Gully.
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3 - Lorraines Ladder
D
Length: 25m
Paul Quinn, Iain Miller 08/07/10
Starting from the half height ledge, climb the the deep left trending groove 6m to the right of the access "Groovy Gully" chimney.   
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4 - Maria's Steps
D
Length: 25m
Paul Quinn, Iain Miller 08/07/10
Climb the deep right trending groove, starting 2m to the right of "Lorraines Ladder."
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5 - Caoimhe's Corner
*
VD
Length: 35m
Iain Miller, Caoimhe Gleeson 29/05/09
Climb the excellent left facing corner, 10 or so metres to the right of Groovy Gully.
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6 - Dimples Left Hand
VD
Length: 35m
Iain Miller, Samantha Bottoms 14/08/11
Climb the left edge of the slab above and immediately to the right of "Caoimhe's Corner" direct through the summit niche of "Dimples Direct."
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7 - Dimples Direct
VD
Length: 35m
Iain Miller, Caoimhe Gleeson 20/05/09
From the belay at the base of Caoimhe's Corner step right and climb the centre of the slab and through a wee niche to the summit.
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8 - Dimples Right Hand
S
Length: 35m
Iain Miller, Samantha Bottoms 14/08/11
Climb the next left facing corner to the right of "Dimples Direct," climb the steep corner above and up direct to summit.
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9 - Fallen Block Romp
D
Length: 35m
Iain Miller, Samantha Bottoms 14/08/11
Climb direct to gain the huge fallen block at mid height on the crag and romp to the summit.
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10 - Ripples Direct
*
S
Length: 35m
Iain Miller, Caoimhe Gleeson 29/05/09
Climb the centre of the next slab to the right. Your left hand/foot on rippled perfection whilst your right hand/foot is on smooth immaculate rock.
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11 - Sonic Boom
* *
VS 4c
Length: 70m
Iain Miller, Caoimhe Gleeson 29/05/09

Abseil approach down "Groovy Gully" to a large recess above the rage. 

 Pitch 1: 35m 4a From the bottom of Groovy Gully, traverse right on superb rock. Stay as close to Neptune as possible and feel the energy of the sea level blow hole.

 Pitch 2: 35m 4c Climb the steep smooth sided left facing corner to the summit.


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12 - Slippery Tipple
*
HVS 4c
Length: 35m
Iain Miller, Samantha Bottoms 14/08/11
Climb the left edge of the immaculate "Famine Village" slab. Gain the slab at it's lowest point (crux) and continue direct. Very bold up the bottom of the slab to mid height small wires.
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13 - The Famine Village
* *
VS 4c
Length: 60m
Dave Millar & Ivan Krella 02/04/11

Climbs next corner to the right of "Sonic Boom." 

 Pitch 1: Traverse diagonally right along base of crag above undercut to main corner on right side of the main face. Belay in corner.

 Pitch 2: Climb corner above via small overhang to start and then corner and nice slabby face above to poorer rock and the top.


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14 - Thank God Corner
*
VS 4c
Length: 40m
Dave Millar & Iain Miller 08/04/11

 Pitch 1, As for Famine Village to belay in the corner.

 Pitch 2, Climbs the next corner right of the Famine Village. Climb famine Village corner to overhang, ascend Famine Village for a few metres then step up and right into corner groove. Ascend this to the top.


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15 - Prisms of Fear
* * *
VS 4c
Length: 90m
Iain Miller, Dave Millar 08/04/11

 Pitch 1. 40m Traverse Diagonally right along the base of the crag above undercut to main corner on right side of main face.

 Pitch 2. 40m Gain the ledge on the steep wall on your right, climb the right trending fault/crack to gain the outstanding left trending ramp. Climb the ramp to a wee niche at it's top.

 Pitch 3. 10m Continue on ramp to the summit. 

 An UBER exposed route with a very committing feel on immaculate rock/gear and surroundings. 


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- Gogarth
VS 4c
Length: 75m
D.Millar & G.Thomas 26th May 2012
P1  4a  10m. Traverse in from base of abseil to base of main corner at right hand end of main slab. P2  4c 25m. Climb corner for 5m to base of obvious diagonal crack splitting the steep right hand face. Climb this for 7m until you come across a large ledge system traversing the main steep face. Traverse the ledge system rightwards stepping down at one point and then back up to spacious pod in centre of the main face. P3  4c 30m. Crouching down, traverse right from pod for few metres to base of a diagonal crack/groove breaking off the main ledge sytem. Climb this steeply at first and then continue up groove as the gradient eases to ledge system. Climb a leftward trending diagonal groove to a spacious ledge. From here step right onto main arete and climb this for 7m to belay at base of junction of good rock with broken rock. P4  4a 10m. Continue up arete and easier angled righthand face on broken ground with care to top.
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