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Editor: Aranmore Island

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Crag Profile: Aranmore Island

Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes

Directions: [caption id="attachment_15607" align="alignnone" width="300"] DCIM/100MEDIA/DJI_0411.JPG[/caption] From the lighthouse at the Northern end of the island (Grid Reference B643188), descend the dramatic steps just outside the wall towards the sea.  The following climbs are in this area.  The rock is excellent to climb on, if a bit thin on gear at times.  Unique Ascent.ie has details of climbing on the various sea stacks surrounding the Island

OS Grid Reference: B654193

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1 - Crex Crex ***
HS 4b
Length: 25m
Marty Mc Guigan, Alan Tees. September 2020

This takes the obvious  2- stepped crackline easily seen on the left from about  half way down the Lighthouse Steps.  Solid, well protected and only about 4a (despite it’s apparent steepness and dramatic situation), until a tricky move up the scoop at the top.  Expect to have an audience. Superb route.
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2 - The Couloir
VD 3c
Length: 25m
Marty Mc Guigan, Alan Tees. Sept 20

About half- way down the steps there is a deep V gully on the right.  Clamber down this to a big diagonal gash on the right.  Climb this, staying within it’s confines.Add route description here...
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3 - Fringe Benefits.
S 4a
Length: 25m
Alan Tees, Marty Mc Guigan. Sept 20

Climb easily the roundish arete that forms the left hand edge of the Couloir to about half height (no gear), cross the couloir and gain cracks that run up the slab parallel to, and about a metre right of, the Couloir.
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4 - The Lighthouse Keeper’s Daughter*
VD 3c
Length: 30m
Alan Tees, Marty McGuigan. Sept 20

Continue down the gully to a big pool. Ascend to above the pool from the left, to gain an obvious shallow overlapping corner.  Nice climbing with good gear to the top.
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5 - The Mermaid’s Pool
VD -
Length: 20m
Marty Mc Guigan, Alan Tees. September 2020
 

A little bit further down the gully on the right is an alcove containing a secluded and delightful pool. Great spot for a skinny dip. Climb directly out of this and continue up the wall above. Variations probable.Add route description here...
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6 - Lighthouse Slab**
VD -
Length: 90m
Iain Miller?

This is the abseil descent to the crossing to Lighthouse Stack, and is probably usually jumared up.  It makes a delightful slab climb, albeit with gear quite spaced at times, and is well worth doing on its own merit as a 2 pitch climb, (particularly if you don’t fancy the crossing to the stack).  Look out for wet streaks!

 
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