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Editor: Winter Routes. Slieve Snaght

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Crag Profile: Winter Routes. Slieve Snaght

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Slieve Snaght - North Face Topo.

Directions: The huge, remote and mildly intimidating North face of Slieve Snaght in the Derry Veagh Mountains, provides a selection of excellent low grade winter climbs in a superb and atmospheric location.

OS Grid Reference: B 9215

1 - The X factor
*
I
Length: 350m
Iain Miller 25/02/10
Climb the center of the North Face as for "Hogmanay," and take the obvious left hand snow ramp/gully to the summit. This snow ramp can be easily seen from Dunlewy village 6 km to the North.
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2 - The Last Hurra!
II
Length: 120m
Iain Miller 25/02/10
From Dunlewy Vilage 6KM to the North of  Slieve Snaght, the North face of Slieve Snaght is bissected by a huge X of prominent snow ramps. The upper half of this X is taken by "X factor" on the left branch and "Hogmany" on the right branch. From the centre of the X (the intersection of "X factor" & "Hogmany") climb direct to the summit up a series of steep iced slabs and even steeper iced corners.
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3 - Silver Tear
II
Length: 120m
Iain Miller 01/03/10
Starting 5 metres to the right of "The Last Hurra" climb direct to the summit up more steep iced slabs and corners.
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4 - Silver Streak
I
Length: 120m
Iain Miller 01/03/10
Starting 10m to the right of "Silver Tear" climb up the icy slabs and up the centre of the snow ramp to the summit. This is a very icy route when not banked out!
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5 - Hogmanay
* *
I
Length: 350m
Alan Tees, Paul Robertson 13th Jan 1991
 This route climbs a direct line up the centre of the huge, remote and intimidating North face of Slieve Snaght in the Derry Veagh Mountains. Grid Ref B924147 Starting centre bottom of the thick ice covered slabs climb a direct line for 200m up the slabs to a huge boulder at the base of a prominient left trending ramp. Ascend the ramp to gain the huge steep centre gully high in the upper face. Climb the centre gully to th summit. A winter grade of I would be appropriate for this long and superbly atmospheric climb.
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6 - Gadarene Ridge.
* *
II
Length: 350m
Iain Miller 25/02/10
Climb the centre of the North Face as for "Hogmanay" to the huge boulder at the base of the left trending snow ramp. Climb directly up from the boulder, following the slightly left trending groove/gully, climb up a steepening and up into a larger gully. From the base of this larger gully gain and ascend the large blocky ridge to the summit. This summit ridge provides several superb situations.
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7 - Nomad's Gully
*
I
Length: 150m
Iain Miller 01/03/10
Climb the steep snow gully to the right of "Gadarene Ridge" to the summit.
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8 - Two go foolish in Derryveagh!
II
Length: 130m
Iain Miller, Steven "Jock Read 23/12/09
On the North Ridge of Slieve Snaght, approx 5m right of the summer route "5 go wild in Derryveagh" climb the huge open book corner for 30 or so metres and continue direct up superb ice smears running down the slabs. Excellent climbing on immaculate iced slabs with just enough frozen turf to save the day!! :-) A Winter grade of II would be the order of the day!
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