Name: Glencolmcille Climbfest
Start: 2025-05-02T08:00:00+00:00
End: 2025-05-05T17:00:00+00:00

Editor: Leenan Head
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Crag Profile: Leenan Head
Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes
Leenan - Uranuslab Area
Directions: Access from Derry is over Mamore Gap to Leenan, turning right before the pier, and parking at the bridge over the moat, Gr 300444. Continue on foot through the ruined fort, and the crag is just South of the small sea stack "Leenan Needle". The routes are on the slabs forming the South side of two or three prominent corners. OS Grid Reference: C296465 Click here to view location in Google Maps
01 - Colonic Irrigation D 3c Length: 18m Alan Tees, Bill Magowan 7/03/10 Abseil down the right hand side of Uranus Slab (the slab forming the South side of the most Northerly corner) to a fine ledge above the water level, and right of, a cave. Follow the groove, first steeply, and then more easily to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
02 - Haemorrhoids S 4a Length: 18m Alan Tees, Bill Magowan, 7/03/10 Abseil down the centre of the slab to gain the ledge, (further right of "Colonic Irrigation"). Surmount the short impending wall on small footholds and continue up the centre of Uranus slab View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
03 - Colonic Hydrotherapy D - Length: 20m Alan Tees, Bill Magowan, 7/03/10 Ab down Uranus, to a small platform at sea level, at the base of the arete, (being careful not to be swept away)!Climb back up the arete, steeply at first, but on jugs, and then more easily. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
04 - Leenan Arete D - Length: 18m Alan Tees, Bill Magowan 7/03/10 Ab down the corner just South of "Uranus" to belay above wave level. Traverse out right, and continue up easily, but airily to the top on the arete. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
05 - Leenan Needle VD 3c Length: 20m I. Miller, B. Whelan 11/06/10 Lenan NeedleGrid Ref C296446. This route climbs the easy angled South Face of the Wee sea stack just off Lenan Head. Access is by Abseil to the tidal platforms facing the southern end of the stack, followed by a short atmospheric sea passage. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
6 - Loophole D - Length: 30m NWMC 1/06/1955 This route is on the Urris Hills just above Leenan Bay. Walk up to Gr316429, where there is an outcrop of rock facing east on the upper flank of the second summit from Mamore Gap. The route is described as an arete, followed by a tunnel, a slabby corner, and a final awkward corner. There is a slab alternative to the initial arete, on it's right. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

Lenan Head. GR305452. From the corner as the road turns along the coast 500m accross the field to an obvious large square block. NW facing. Ab to big ledge.Tidal . Beware big waves!Add route description here...

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7 - The Hum VD - Length: 27m Tim Fogg , Carroll O'Dolan 16/8/20 Start up a steep juggy wall at the left edge (looking in) of the ledge. Climb up the the bulge , pass it on the right and finish on top of the large block. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
8 - Humble D - Length: 22m Tim and Pam Fogg , Carrol O'Dolan 16/8/20 3. Climb straight up to the right edge of the big block. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
9 - ????? HS 4b Length: 22m H M and TF 20/7/21 Two metres left of Humdinger . Start up a crack to reach an overlap pull over this and f inish straight to arrive at the Big Block View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
10 - Humdinger S - Length: 26m Tim Fogg , Carroll O'Dolan 16/8/20 26m Climb the obvious deep cracked corner to the overhang, pass it on the right View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
11 - Humdoodle S - Length: 12m Tim Fogg , Carroll O'Dolan 16/8/20 Climb the right hand edge of the small slab on dubious rock with not much gear. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
12 - Hum Something HS - Length: 18m Tim Fogg , Carroll O'Dolan 16/8/20 Right of Humdoodle towards the caves. Belay where the ledge starts to get smaller. Traverse to the arete, up this and on up a bobbely slab. Slightly left to finish over easy ground View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

GR 297426 Headland with two arches. SW face. 1 mile SW from Leenankeel. All ab in. Tidal . Beware big waves! Four routes left of the seaward arch.
Inter-Route Note
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13 - David's Arete. VD - Length: 20m David Scott, Carroll O'Dolan , Pam and Tim Fogg 8/8/20 leftmost of Four routes left of the seaward arch. Climb the broken arete moving right on a ledge to finish up the exposed arete. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
14 - Wooly jumper D - Length: 20m Tim Fogg , Carroll O'Dolan , Pam Fogg 15/8/20 Climb the twin cracks three metres left of 'Bob the sheep' View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
15 - Bob the sheep.* VD - Length: 20m Tim Fogg , Carroll O'Dolan , David Scott 8/8/20 Hard V.diff * Climb the perfect arete left of the arch. Great position. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
16 - Heat Wave VS -** Length: 18m TF and HM 20/7/21 Start from 'Bob the Sheep' Traverse right across the foot ledge and follow the crack to the top with increasing difficulty. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
17 - Spider Corner HS - Length: 18m Hugh Mc Cann and TF 20/07/21 Just to the right of the Heat Wave Arch. The first of Two corners ( Pam thinks 'Cleaning the Crack' would be more relevant to the occasion!!) Climb the small left hand corner and finish over the left side of the overlap View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
18 - Spiderless S - Length: 18m TF and H M 20/7/21 Climb the big corner and finish over the right side of the overlap, Access from the col between the arches View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
19 - Respirator S - Length: 16m Tim Fogg , Carroll O'Dolan 15/8/20 Stance with gear in the wheezing crack. Climb the corner. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
20 - Cistern S - Length: 16m Tim Fogg , Carroll O'Dolan 15/8/20 Climb easily up to the head wall. Steep moves to finish. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route