Editor: Gola - Main Wall | |
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Crag Profile: Gola - Main Wall |
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Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes |
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Directions: This is the main climbing area so far. Descent is by abseil, or else take a Diff staircase at the southern end of the wall, which descends in a northerly direction. At low tide, it is possible to scramble as far as the zawn with the twin cave at the left (northern) end of this section of the crag, where there is a very steep cracked wall, which contains the first four routes. OS Grid Reference: B760271 Click here to view location in Google Maps |
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087 - Gathering Momentum
No length recorded R.Browner, S.Coughlan 3 August 1996 The left-hand crack system on the steep wall. Start on the left end of the ledges where they begin to disappear, about 6m right of the cave. Climb the crack system to a faint corner/groove. Continue up this then leave it to finish slightly rightward, avoiding the obvious softer left hand finish. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
088 - Central Route
No length recorded K. Pyke, A. Anderson 25 August 97 This route takes the central line in the face, left of Gyration. Start at the wide, hanging groove capped by a narrow chimney. Climb the groove and chimney, with increasing difficulty, to gain crack systems proper. Continue up leftward-trending cracklines strenuously but on good jams to finish. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
089 - Gyration
No length recorded R.Browner, S.Coughlan 4 August 1996 The leftward trending crack on the right-hand end of the steep wall. Start on the right hand end of the steep wall beside a large corner. Climb the crack past a bulge to easier ground above. (The hard start can be avoided by stepping on to the route from the corner 5m above). View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
090 - Hyperglide
No length recorded R.Browner, S.Coughlan 3 August 1996 The right hand crack on the steep wall. Start in the back of the dark corner down on the ledges. Bridge easily up the corner until it becomes too wide to bridge. From here swing left into the crack, continue up this to finish. (It is probably possible to escape rightward towards the top). View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
90a - The Reaper
Length: 25m I. Miller, C. Gleeson 03/06/12 Approx 3m from the corner in the dark recess wall, left of "Gun Runner," climb the stepped crack. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
091 - Gun Runner
No length recorded M.Daly, S.McMullan To the right of this steep wall is a left facing wall split by a single crack that starts four metres above the ledge. Gun Runner Takes this crack. Traverse along a horizontal fault into the base of the crack. Climb the crack to gain (by a difficult move) a jug to the right. Continue using mainly layback technique to finish up Cormorant Crack. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
092 - Cormorant Crack
No length recorded D.Doyle, M.McInerney To the right of Gun Runner there is a prominent widening corner running the full height of the cliff. Follow the corner for a couple of moves until a prominent crack leads left and up. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
093 - Run of the Arrow
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VS 4bNo length recorded P.Harrington, A.Romero This route takes the corner and upper groove for its full length. Sustained and well protected . View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
094 - Ceol na Mara
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E2 5cNo length recorded P.Breen, S.McMullan 2 June 1996 Climb Run of the Arrow for 5 metres then move right to the arête and continue up this to large ledge. At the right hand end of this ledge a thin crack splits the face above. Climb this to another ledge. Follow crack more easily to the top. At high tide, your second can belay on a ledge in Run of the Arrow above the point where you move to the arête. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
095 - TÃÂr na nÓg
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E3 5cNo length recorded M.Daly, P.McGarrity 2 June 1996 To the right of this, there is a wall with a prominent cave/recess running to half height. The next route takes the crackline left of this cave. Climb the crack strenuously to a poor rest at mid-height. Continue with difficulty to reach a jug on the right and better rest. Continue to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
096 - Brass Monkey
No length recorded M.Daly, O.O'Regan 29th June 1996 Start below the large cave in the main wall left of Galway Hooker. Climb the left wall of the cave (no.11 hex in crack at the back of the cave). Pull up left around the flake and gain good ledge on the wall. Climb the twin cracks and groove to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
097 - Galway Hooker
No length recorded M.Daly & P.McGarrity 15 June 1996 Right of Tir na nOg there is a large cave. The route takes the next crack right of the cave. Climb strenuously up the crack and gain a ledge at 10m by a difficult move (one arm rest). Continue by pinching a flake and then poor jams to gain a small niche and rest (thread runner). Climb steeply on rounded holds to top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
098 - Shagamorant
No length recorded R.Laffan, D.Flynn 2 June 1996 This climbs the corner at the right-hand end of the wall. Follow the corner to the bulge at 5m. Steep bridging reaches a good hold on the right wall. Pull up onto a small ledge above, then follow corner again, staying mostly with the cracks on the right of the flakes in the corner. The rock in the upper section requires care. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
099 - Bull Root
No length recorded P.McGarrity, M.Daly 2 June 1996 Start on the large ledge beneath Shagamorant. Step off the right side of ledge, and, using flake, climb to higher ledge. Climb crack above to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
100 - Snow Desert
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HS 4bNo length recorded P.Harrington, A.Romero Climb the obvious cracks and grooves in the middle of this wall. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
101 - Constitution
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E4 6aNo length recorded P.Breen, P Harrington 30 June 1996 The following routes are on the next wall. The crack Left of Ship Wrecked. Climb steep wide crack to good fistjam below thin finger-crack. Steep fingerlocks and holds lead to a rest. From here move left to Arete below top bulge. Exposed layback over top bulge. 4 Camalot useful in wide crack. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
102 - Ship Wrecked
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E2 5bLength: 20m P.Breen, P.Harrington, S.MacGearailt 2 September 1995 This route takes the prominent crack with an obvious sentry box in the middle. Easy climbing leads to a thread runner at the base of the sentry box. Climb past the sentry box (crux) and continue up grooves and past old sling to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
103 - Destitution
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E2 5bLength: 20m P.Breen, S.McMullan, P.Harrington This route takes the crack just right of Ship Wrecked. Climb crack on good holds to below niche. From here, move right and steeply up a diagonally rising flake to ledge. Continue up grooves to top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
104 - Destitution Direct
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E2 5cLength: 20m J. Hawkins, P O Farrell Follow Destitution to the niche move left to climb bulge using layoffs and flared cracks. Groove above niche still unclimbed.????? View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
105 - Restitution
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E3 5cLength: 20m P.Breen, P.Harrington (1 Rest point)C. Torrans C. Sheridan FFA The wide crack right of Destitution. Climb the steep crack bridging the lower section. Continue up wide crack to gain good hold (crux) Finish up easier grooves to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
106 - Cornered Rats
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HVS 5bNo length recorded M.McInerney, D.Doyle To the right of this area are three left-facing corners, followed by a fourth corner split by an arete to give a further two groove lines. This route takes the leftmost corner line. A weird experience View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
107 - Castaway
No length recorded P.Breen, S.McMullan, P.Harrington ("Desperate" - Simon Patton who climbs 6a!) The second left facing corner. Climb lower corner easily to base of second corner at mid height. Climb left face to gain large ledge at the top of corner (crux). Continue up face to top. Some dodgy rock. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
108 - Sundance
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VS 4cNo length recorded P.Harrington, P.Breen The third left facing corner. Harder than it looks! View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
109 - What's Left
No length recorded P.Breen, S.McMullan 29 June 1996 Arete and north facing wall right of Sundance View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
110 - Lunch Money
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HS 4bNo length recorded M.McInerney, D.Doyle Next there is a large corner split in two by an arête. This route takes the corner groove to the left of the arête. Start below and to the left of the corner, and climb to a ledge at half height. Finish up main corner to top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
111 - Golan Heights
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VS 4cNo length recorded R.Laffan, D.Flynn This route climbs the corner groove to the right of the arête. Start in a short corner below the arête. Climb this corner with awkward step right into main corner groove at mid-height. Continue up this (delicate or strenuous) to exit through niche on skyline on right. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
112 - Leopard
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HVS 5aNo length recorded P.Harrington, P.Breen Climb the left-hand side of the wall left of Black Cleft for a few metres until good protection can be found. Trend slightly right on good holds until a ledge is reached with two vertical cracks above it. Finish up the right hand crack. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
113 - Mirror Image
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E1 5bNo length recorded P.McGarrity, M.Daly 2 June 1996 Start 2 metres right of leopard. Climb wall to a ledge. Move left crossing Leopard and climb wide crack to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
114 - Shortie
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HVS 5aNo length recorded P.Harrington, P.Breen July 1996 (direct start: eliminate, unclimbed and extreme!) This route climbs the thin crack on the left wall of the Black Cleft. Start up the cleft at a point level with a small overhang. Move left to the crack (reaching holds above the overhang from the gully) and climb it to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
115 - Black Cleft
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D No length recorded S.MacGearailt (solo). Climbs the obvious black cleft right of Shortie. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
116 - The Last Oasis
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HS 4bNo length recorded P.Harrington, A.Romero, M.McInerney The next routes are to the right of 'Black Cleft', starting at the wall where there is a square roof. The route starts below the roof and trends leftwards. Climb grooves to reach a ledge and a left facing wall, then up easier crack on the far left. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
117 - Thug
No length recorded P.Harrington, P.Breen Start as for The Last Oasis. Follow it to the ledge then instead of moving left to the easier crack make a strenuous move using the first crack to gain the top. A well protected one move wonder. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
118 - An tOileánach
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E3 6aNo length recorded M.Daly, P.McGarrity 2 June 1996 Start below the square roof, climbing to its left with another overhang at mid-height. Climb the steep wall using the edge on the right and gain the overhang with a difficult move. Climb the overhang on good jams and gain the groove above (crux). Climb this with difficulty to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
119 - Born Again Climber
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E1 5bLength: 15m S.MacGearailt, T.O'Brien 2 September 1995 This route climbs the steep wall immediately right of the square roof, through an alcove at mid-height. Climb the crack with hard moves to pass a small overhang and gain the comfortable alcove. Make committing moves up and right, then trend back left on ever-rounder holds to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
120 - Seamonsters
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HVS 5bNo length recorded S.McMullan, P.Breen Start two cracks right of Born Again Climber. Climb up large holds to gain a large ledge beneath an overhung niche. Chicken out leftwards on this ledge using undercuts and finish up the tricky corner crack View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
121 - Seamonsters Direct
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E1 5cNo length recorded P.Breen, S.McMullan 29 June 1996 Direct finish for Sea Monsters. Climb Seamonsters to the ledge then continue directly up overhung niche (difficult). View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
122 - Don't Pay The Ferryman
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HVS 5aNo length recorded P.Breen, S.McMullan, P.Harrington Takes the next crack right of Seamonsters Direct. Climb crack to overhang. Continue through overhang and more easily to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
123 - Lonesome Boatman
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HVS 5bNo length recorded P.Breen, P.Harrington Climbs crack through next small overhang, featuring a painful handjam. Good holds available to the right, if you bring them with you. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
124 - Waterworld
S No length recorded P.Harrington, P.Breen This climbs the next arete on the right, at the edge of a deep recess. Don't get excited. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
125 - Deep Recess
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D No length recorded D.Doyle (solo). | |||
126 - Not CQR
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VS 4cNo length recorded R.Laffan, D.Flynn On the wall between the recess and the descent route, there are four routes. Start at the left end of the wall. Follow a crack, just right of the arête, to a reasonable hold just below the horizontal niche. A hard move gains a good hold on the wall just above the niche, then pull up and left into a groove just left of the arête. Finish more easily up this to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
127 - Anchors Away
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HVS 5aNo length recorded P.Breen, P.Harrington This route takes the line of the crack towards the centre of the wall. Follow a line of positive holds, just left of the crack, to gain a horizontal break and another vertical crack. Follow this to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
128 - Scabbro
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E1 5bNo length recorded S.McMullan, P.Breen, P.Harrington This takes the next crack right. Climb steeply up the crack to good holds and a rest below the square-cut block. Launch up to a sloping ledge, which is better on the right, and finish directly above on slopers. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
129 - Hexes from Heaven
No length recorded S.McMullan, P.Breen, R.Laffan Climb the steep crack and groove, which starts at the base of the descent route. Finish by the arête on left. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
130 - Descent route
No length recorded Follows the obvious right-trending staircase to top of crag View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
131 - Big Boots
No length recorded S.McMullan (solo) | |||
132 - Seventh Wave of a Seventh Wave
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VS 5aNo length recorded S.McMullan, P.Breen 15 June '96 Further right, at the most southerly end of the Main Face, there is a large flat platform, normally accessible at all states of tide. This is the first crack on the left of the large square platform. Climb up the thin leftward trending crack with the crux close to the ground. The crack is easier than it looks as is protected by small wires. Gain the ledge and continue on through a notch exit directly above on monster holds. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
133 - New Route
No length recorded | |||
134 - The Good, The Bad and The Ugly
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E1 5bNo length recorded M.McInerney, D.Doyle, R.Laffan Climb the obvious crack (steep) with a rest on the two intermediate ledges. Finally launch out on the top wall to climb through niche above, just left of overlap. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
134a - The Devil made me do it.
Length: 20m G.Galligan, M.Duignan, A.Moloney 5/08/06 Takes the 2 corners 3 metres to the left of "The Beautiful". Start on the inside one, bridging to the main slab, then moving right to the outside corner. Continue to the top of the block.. Plenty of poor friable rock here. Finish as per "The Beautiful. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
135 - The Beautiful
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HS 4bNo length recorded R.Laffan, D.Flynn At the east end of this wall, there is another deep recess just before the cliff turns into Narrow Zawn. Climb the crack and corner in the back left of the recess. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
136 - Mind Games
No length recorded P.McArthur, E. Cooper (3 rest points) 29 June 96 Climbs the short overhanging wall at the back of the recess. Belay as for The Beautiful. Step over to the other side and climb up easily until level with a small overlap. With strenuous moves bridge left onto the wall and make a couple of moves to reach a good hold on the left. Make a series of technical moves up on small flat holds to reach good edges below the top. (Good 1.5 Friend in right crack). Final pulls over rounded holds bring you thankfully to the belay. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
137 - The Feast of Cana
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VD No length recorded D.Flynn, R.Laffan To the right of this recess, there is a stepped arete forming the west entrance to Narrow Zawn. The final route climbs this arete. Climb the arête and rightwards easily over slabs. At half height climb over jutting blocks, then up more easily to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||