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Editor: Union Woods - Union Wall

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Crag Profile: Union Woods - Union Wall

Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes

Directions: Can be accessed from Ballisodare and Collooney via forest tracks in Union Woods. Least complicated route is from the White Gates, near Union Foods (G692294). Follow track to "Crows Foot", a three way junction, and then take middle track. At the next junction take a right and head up hill on the track for about 900 metres. "Crag of Dan" appears first on left, which is now very overgrown. Union Wall is then 100 metres beyond this, also on the left

OS Grid Reference: G682286

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1 - Awkward Friend
HVS -
Length: 12m
Jonathan Gilmore, Daniel O'Brien, Conal Sexton (24 May 2016)
Start 1m left of the bottom left of the crag and climb past the bulging eye-like feature diagonally towards the next bulging eye-like feature at two thirds height. Clamber over onto a shelf at 2m below the top and followed by an awkward unprotected move to the top  
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2 - Crack, Crack and a Prayer
HVS -
Length: 12m
Jonathan Gilmore, Conal Sexton, Daniel O'Brien (24 May 2016)
Two metres left of Awkward Friend, climb just to the right of the obvious rightward trending crack. Continue to the next crack, which is about 1 foot left of the first crack. Continue up to the shelf 2 metres below the top
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A shorter crag to the left of the main crag has a number of routes on it. The top of this crag and also the main crag, can be accessed by a track to the right of the main face. The top of this crag has been cleaned since the topo photo was taken
Topo

3 Welcome to the Jungle

4 Tomtrooper

5 The Walls have Eyes

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3 - Welcome to the Jungle
S -
Length: 7m
Daniel O’Brien, Jonathan Gilmore 17 May 2019
 

Follow the obvious crack in the middle of the crag, with the large eye like hollow. Juggy, with good protection

 
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4 - Tomtrooper
HS -
Length: 7m
Conal Sexton, Daniel O’Brien 28 May 2019
 

Climb the faint crack between “Welcome to the jungle” and “The walls have eyes”. Crux is at the top out.

 
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5 - The Walls have Eyes
HS -
Length: 9m
Daniel O’Brien, Conal Sexton 21 May 2019
 

Follow the obvious crack on the right edge of the crag. Juggy, with good protection all the way. Excellent wire placement just before top out

 
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This route is on the Crag of Dan, now overgrown apparently.
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6 - Blessed are the Half- Hearted
VS 4c
Length: 8m
Alan Tees, Valli Schafer, Geoff Thomas 17/06/07

"For they shall sacrifice a friend" Start in the obvious overlapping corner, bridge up and stretch for good holds on the left wall, move left and into wide crack. follow to the top, and recently chopped jungle.
 
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