Editor: Cooney Rock | |
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Crag Profile: Cooney Rock |
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Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes |
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Directions: The crag is located 500m down the road before arriving at Scailp na gCapaill. 400 m before arriving at Scailp na g Capaill there is a parking place for 3 cars at the side of the road. From the parking, walk down (away from Scailp na gCapaill) a further 100m and cross a low wall on the right into forest. The crag is 20m ahead in the woods. Access to the top of the crag is at the right-hand side. Follow the track cut through the gorse jungle to the top, it is also the descent. OS Grid Reference: Click here to view location in Google Maps |
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1 - Codex
Length: 25m B.Proctor M.Daly 20.4.2019 This route takes the obvious crack that splits the centre of the
wall.
Climb the crack passing 2 technically difficult sections. Near to top
step left
onto the arete and climb the wall above using perfectly shaped
pockets. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
2 - Breithla
Length: 25m M.Daly B.Proctor 24.3.2019 Route starts 2m left of Codex and 1m left of obvious " letterbox".
The route follows a faint crack up to an overlap at 6m. Climb the
overlap up to an overhang at 10m.
Climb this on the right and follow crack above to top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
3 - Bluegrass
Length: 25m M.Daly B.Proctor 28.3.2019 Route starts 2m left of Breithla. Climb the blackish groove which
trends diagonally left at first and then diagonally back right to a
stance below an overlap at 7m (first runner). Climb this leftwards to
below an overhang. Climb the overhang (hard moves) and get
established on small holds (poor rest) at the base of 2 parallel faint
cracks (small wire protection) climb this with increasing difficulty
until respite is reached by gaining big T.G. jugs and ledge. Easy to
top and block belay. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
4 - Sligo Sloper
Length: 25m M.Daly B.Proctor 29.4.2019 Route takes arete 2m left of Bluegrass. Slope up diagonally leftwards
to reach arete.
Climb this (crux) to large ledge below short corner. Up easily to
top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
5 - Black Gold
Length: 25m M.Daly B.Proctor 30.3.2019 Route takes the black wall right of Codex. Climb the centre of the
wall on large pockets to a horizontal break at 8m.
Arrange protection and climb the wall with difficult moves at first on
the right to gain a sloping foothold.
Step back left to a small rounded pocket on the wall. Steady oneself
and use crimps and side pinches for a few moves to gain a magic jug
and gear. Up easily on pockets to top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
6 - Carpetbagger
Length: 23m B.Proctor M.Daly 20.4.2019 Route takes the first groove of Black Gold. Climb up to a sloping
pulpit and from here climb the groove.
Step left near top onto the arete. Climb easily to top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
7 - Ivy Groove
Length: 23m B.Proctor M.Daly 20.4.2019 Route takes next groove right of Carpetbagger.
Climb to the pulpit and step right into the groove. Up this passing 2
steep sections to top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
8 - Crack a-go-go
Length: 20m M.Daly B.Proctor 29.4.2019 Route takes curving crack in the centre of the wall right of
Carpetbagger.
Start from large ledge. Follow line of crack to ledge below top. Up
easily to finish. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||