Editor: Tory Island | |
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Crag Profile: Tory Island |
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Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes |
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Directions: Take the Turasmara boat from Magheraoarty or Bunbeg to West Town. Crags are North & slightly West of Village, around the most Westerly longest zawn. There are higher and more spectacular cliffs east, but rock quality is perhaps not so good. OS Grid Reference: B852472 Click here to view location in Google Maps |
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1 - Crested 10
HS 4bLength: 15m Alan Tees & Bill Magowan Three quarters out along the East side of a long zawn are two obvious corner/grooves, split by a fin or sliver of rock. This takes the right one. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
2 - Long Zawn Sliver
S 4aLength: 15m Bill Magowan & Alan Tees 5/06/04 This takes the LHS of the rock sliver. Starts out to the left, and gains the corner higher up. Nice route. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
12 - Siobhan
Length: 15m Alan Tees, Frank Corr 10/06/2017 Add route description here...In Long Zawn, west side opposite 'Long
Zawn Sliver' is a grooved slab with a right angled corner on its
south end. Ab down the slab and traverse beyond the corner to a
short chimney, which is climbed nicely but easily. Up the slab above
until forced left by an overhang onto a ridge. The excellent rock
deteriorates at this point, so yake car not to drop anything on your
belayer. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
| 50 metres West of Long Zawn, are 2 short inlets separated by a promontory which narrows into an arete. The West side of the first inlet is a big clean eroded slab, abseil from the cleaned block to the huge sea level central recess. The following 5 routes start in this huge recess. Rock/gear and climbing is excellent. |
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13 - Culbane Cracks
VS 4bLength: 15m Frank Corr, Alan Tees 10/06/2017 Add route description here...On the grooved slab almost opposite
'Long Zawn Sliver'. Ab down to a decent ledge. There are many
possible variations here, but this one starts towards the South end of
the slab. A steep but straightforward start leads to a succession of
thin moves above, and near the centre of the slab. Delicate. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
4 - Gravy Groove
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S 4aLength: 45m W. Schuessler, C. Gleeson, I. Miller 28/07/11 Pitch 1. From the huge recess at sea level in the centre of the crag, traverse at sea level towards the back of the geo to the base of the full crag height groove. Pitch 2. Climb the groove on immaculate rock. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
5 - One Too Many
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HS 4bLength: 30m W. Schuessler, I. Miller 28/07/11 From the central recess at sea level make a rising leftward traverse to the centre of the slab on your left, continue direct up the slab. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
6 - Central Line
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VD Length: 30m W. Schuessler, C. Gleeson 28/07/11 From the central recess climb the full crag height hand crack up the left of the recess. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
7 - Grand Wall
Length: 27m I. Miller, C. Gleeson 28/07/11 From the recess climb the left wall directly above. A tad necky! :-) View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
8 - Also Ran
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VD Length: 28m I. Miller, C. Gleeson 28/07/11 Climb the right ward trending hand crack from the huge sea level recess, finish direct. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
9 - Mille Failte
D Length: 20m A.Tees, Bill Magowan June 2004 The long easy eroded crack near the end of the West face of the first short zawn, just West of the long zawn containing Crested 10. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
14 - Tineas Farraige
Length: 25m Alan Tees, Nigel Miller and Margaret Quinn 28/06/24 On Failte Slab, start at the base of Mille Failte, and do a right- to-
left rising Traverse to gain a ledge at two thirds height. Continue
left along the ledge to a right facing shallow corner. Climb it to the
top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
10 - Star of the Sea
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S 4aLength: 20m Bill Magowan, Alan Tees, June 04 The sea facing wall. Abseil from the top of arete above Mille Failte to a small ledge at sea level. Excellent for its grade and worthy of at least one star. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
11 - Arrowhead Slab
VD Length: 20m Alan Tees, Bill Magowan.June 04 Opposite side from "Mille Failte" there is an obvious slab descending to a point. Abseil down the slab to a platform below and climb up again! Start in the corner to the right of the point. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
