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Editor: Tory Island

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Crag Profile: Tory Island

Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes

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Tory Island

Directions: Take the Turasmara boat from Magheraoarty or Bunbeg to West Town. Crags are North & slightly West of Village, around the most Westerly longest zawn. There are higher and more spectacular cliffs east, but rock quality is perhaps not so good.

OS Grid Reference: B852472

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1 - Crested 10
HS 4b
Length: 15m
Alan Tees & Bill Magowan
Three quarters out along the East side of a long zawn are two obvious corner/grooves, split by a fin or sliver of rock. This takes the right one.
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2 - Long Zawn Sliver
S 4a
Length: 15m
Bill Magowan & Alan Tees 5/06/04
This takes the LHS of the rock sliver. Starts out to the left, and gains the corner higher up. Nice route.
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12 - Siobhan
VD 3c
Length: 15m
Alan Tees, Frank Corr 10/06/2017
Add route description here...In Long Zawn, west side opposite 'Long Zawn Sliver' is a grooved slab with a right angled corner on its south end.  Ab down the slab  and traverse beyond the corner to a short chimney, which is climbed nicely but easily.  Up the slab above until forced left by an overhang onto a ridge.  The excellent rock deteriorates at this point, so yake car not to drop anything on your belayer.
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50 metres West of Long Zawn, are 2 short inlets separated by a promontory which narrows into an arete. The West side of the first inlet is a big clean eroded slab, abseil from the cleaned block to the huge sea level central recess. The following 5 routes start in this huge recess. Rock/gear and climbing is excellent.
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13 - Culbane Cracks
VS 4b
Length: 15m
Frank Corr, Alan Tees 10/06/2017
Add route description here...On the grooved slab almost opposite 'Long Zawn Sliver'.  Ab down to a decent ledge.  There are many possible variations here, but this one starts towards the South end of the slab.  A steep but straightforward start leads to a succession of thin moves above, and near the centre of the slab.  Delicate.
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4 - Gravy Groove
*
S 4a
Length: 45m
W. Schuessler, C. Gleeson, I. Miller 28/07/11

Pitch 1. From the huge recess at sea level in the centre of the crag, traverse at sea level towards the back of the geo to the base of the full crag height groove.

Pitch 2. Climb the groove on immaculate rock.


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5 - One Too Many
* * *
HS 4b
Length: 30m
W. Schuessler, I. Miller 28/07/11
From the central recess at sea level make a rising leftward traverse to the centre of the slab on your left, continue direct up the slab.
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6 - Central Line
* * *
VD
Length: 30m
W. Schuessler, C. Gleeson 28/07/11
From the central recess climb the full crag height hand crack up the left of the recess.
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7 - Grand Wall
HS 4b
Length: 27m
I. Miller, C. Gleeson 28/07/11
From the recess climb the left wall directly above. A tad necky! :-)
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8 - Also Ran
*
VD
Length: 28m
I. Miller, C. Gleeson 28/07/11
Climb the right ward trending hand crack from the huge sea level recess, finish direct. 
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9 - Mille Failte
D
Length: 20m
A.Tees, Bill Magowan June 2004
The long easy eroded crack near the end of the West face of the first short zawn, just West of the long zawn containing Crested 10.
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10 - Star of the Sea
* *
S 4a
Length: 20m
Bill Magowan, Alan Tees, June 04
The sea facing wall. Abseil from the top of arete above Mille Failte to a small ledge at sea level. Excellent for its grade and worthy of at least one star.
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11 - Arrowhead Slab
VD
Length: 20m
Alan Tees, Bill Magowan.June 04
Opposite side from "Mille Failte" there is an obvious slab descending to a point. Abseil down the slab to a platform below and climb up again! Start in the corner to the right of the point.
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