Editor: Bingorm Central (Lough Barra) | |
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Crag Profile: Bingorm Central (Lough Barra) |
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Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes |
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Directions: See Guide OS Grid Reference: B941143 Click here to view location in Google Maps |
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c01 - Gray Slab
Length: 63m N.Brown, W.Hannon,F.Butler,E Gallagher 25/05/60 The route follows the edge of the first rocks on the left side of the crag, starting high up, above and left of the long easily angled slabs of Bin Man. The climb starts on a rib of a gully and continues up the slabs above. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
c02 - Bin Man
Length: 123m E.Healey, B.MacCall (Alt. Leads) W.Hannon, K.Shelley 17/04/60 The route starts on the long easily angled slabs at the bottom left of the crag. Follow the two main slabs and move generally right to reach a chimney at about 90 m. Climb this steep but easy chimney and second chimney above to top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
c03 - Twilight
Length: 93m N.Brown, S.Rothery (Alt. leads) E.Gallagher, F.Butler 20/06/60 This route is on the left hand side of the largest rock mass of the central buttress. Start at the foot of the obvious chimney below the twin grooves leading to the overhang at the top of the buttress.
1/. 39m. Climb the wall to the right of the chimney and pull up onto vegetated ledge at 9m. Move right and up short walls, then back into the groove and up to stance. 2/. 30m Straight up groove and wall on left on good holds to ledge below overhangs. 3/. 24m. Move right along ledge and up into obvious corner at 9m. Down to the right below a small overhang which is climbed strenuously, continue up slabs to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
c04 - White Slab
Length: 90m S. Rothery, T.Cullen, S.Yates, U.Moore 16/04/60 Start in the centre of the large white slab low down on the central section of the buttress, to the left of the deep gully.
1/.39m. Straight up centre of slab to vegetated ledge at 24m. Move left and up to platform at the bottom of a steep corner.
2/. 15m Climb the corner groove to a stance at mid height.
3/. 22m. Traverse round to the right to a heather tongue and up to a broad ledge under a overhang.
4/.14m Move along ledge to the right and up corner on the left of the deep gully. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
c05 - Botany Bay
Length: 75m S.Rothery, F.Beloe 20/05/61 This route follows the left edge of the deep gully. Start to the right and about 15m above the start of "White Slab".
1/.23m Climb the steep slab by a groove slanting to the right and up to grass ledge. 2/.15m. Move across to the left and up a vegetated overhang to belay below next slab. 3/.18m. Climb a short vegetated groove and traverse left and up corner to a large field of dwarf oaks. 4/. 19m. Climb above the large block onto the edge of the gully, and join White Slab for the final 10m. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
c06 - Felicitation
Length: 60m P.Gribbon,C.Sloan,E.Innes, 4/1955 The route follows a narrow rib up the central section of the cliff. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
c07 - Apollo
Length: 63m P.O'Leary, P.O'Halpin, P.Power 6/06/60 The Climb follows the cracks on the slabs immediately to the right of the main gully and continues up a rib on the face.
1/. 24m. Take the left hand of two parallel cracks to overhang, up this on the right and continue up crack by increasingly difficult moves, leading to a small sloping ledge with a patch of vegetation in a corner on the left.Belay.2/. Move up edge for 3m and then back right onto face. Up slab to grass ledge. 3/. 30m. Traverse right over two ribs to second groove, which is climbed for 5m before stepping right onto rib. Follow the general line of this to the top View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
c08 - Oblivion
Length: 84m E.Gallagher, N.Brown 15/04/60 Start at the lowest point of the right hand buttress. A poor route following slabs and vegetation up the broken buttress. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
c09 - Oblivious to Oblivion
VS 4bLength: 100m Bill Magowan, Alan Tees Alt leads 18/07/04 This takes the obvious clean pillar of rock between the 2 gullies on Bingorm Central. Start bottom left on short rightward trending corner, up onto slab, left on undercuts and up onto upper slabs. These are followed almost until they run out, and over 5m right to belay at the bottom of groove. Pitch 2 goes up the clean groove on fine holds and "Bingorm" protection. Thin move (crux) leads into corner and up to arete, with eroded groove on right hand side. Up arete, and exit left to belay. Pitch 3 is well described in Oblivion, (Poor quality climbing on vegetation and some rock) View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
c10 - Failure
Length: 48m P.& T.Cripps 26/03/69 A further gully separates Bingorm Central from Bingorm East. This route starts left and above the corner of the rib on the left of the gully, and follows a line of broken rocks and slabs, finishing up a shallow vegetated chimney. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||