Name: Glencolmcille Climbfest
Start: 2025-05-02T08:00:00+00:00
End: 2025-05-05T17:00:00+00:00

Editor: Muckish (McSwyne's Buttress)
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Crag Profile: Muckish (McSwyne's Buttress)
Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes
Muckish Main Crag - A Crackatee Sev 3c B Tory Canyon Sev 4a C Male Cross Dresser E1 5a D Catholic Girls HVS 5a E Readers' Wives E1 5c F Act The Maggot Sev 4a G Winklepicker Sev 4a H Equus VS 4c I Razorback E3 5b J HMS Wasp VS 4b K Lord Inchiquin HS 4b L General Galtieri VS 4b M The Wizard VS 4b N Forty Winks VS 4b O Warm Up VS 4b P Boom Boom E2 5b
Directions: Approx. 2km out of Creeslough, on the Dunfanaghy Rd, turn left opposite graveyard and follow this road, which becomes unmetalled, as far as you can. McSwynes Buttress is high up on Muckish, to the left of the prominent stone chute. Access is by a faint zig-zag track to the left of the chute. Due to its location, this crag should only be climbed after a period of reasonably dry weather, and is best in the evening. OS Grid Reference: C009292 Click here to view location in Google Maps
01 - Exile Freezie VD - Length: 12m R Lee, A Tees (5/77) The route goes up the edge of a prominent arete left of the main crag. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
02 - I am the Walrus VD - Length: 12m S Hamilton, A Tees (5/8/79) Start: As for Exile Freezie Traverse left into jagged crack system leading past "Tusk"/spike to top. S Hamilton, A Tees (5/8/79) View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
03 - Tory Canyon S 4a Length: 27m A Tees, R Smith (3/8/82) Climb the obvious crack line about 7m left of the square roof at the centre of the buttress. Exit right through a window. Good route. A Tees, R Smith (3/8/82) View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
04 - Male Cross Dresser Support Group E1 5a Length: 12m D O'Sullivan, J Dugdale (5/7/92) Start 3m right of Tory Canyon. Make easy moves up to an expansive ledge at 2m. Traverse right below the roof and from the right end of the ledge reach up for good holds. Make a disconcerting traverse along the lip of the roof for 2m rightwards. Finish direct. D O'Sullivan, J Dugdale (5/7/92) View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
05 - Catholic Girls HVS 5a Length: 12m D O'Sullivan, J Dugdale (5/7/92) In the middle of McSwyne's Buttress lies a huge, square-cut overhang. Start on the left-hand wall under this overhang. Gain the horizontal break, and traverse to the left arete. Climb this for 3m and then move slightly leftwards across a horizontal break (good gear further left) to finish directly up the slab, just right of Catholic Girls. D O'Sullivan, J Dugdale (5/7/92) View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
06 - Readers Wives E1 5c Length: 12m D O'Sullivan, J Dugdale (5/7/92) Start at the right arete of the wall below the large overhang. Climb the arete easily until level with the roof. Move into the obvious crack and climb this to the top. Well protected. D O'Sullivan, J Dugdale (5/7/92) View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
07 - Act The Maggot S - Length: 60m A Tees, R Lee (5/77) 1) Start in the corner behind square overhang and follow ledge up and over large jammed boulder. 2) Scramble up over mixed ground to traverse right to base of narrow chimney. 3) Climb chimney with an undignified move to emerge at the top. A Tees, R Lee (5/77) View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
08 - Winkelpicker S 4a Length: 12m A Tees, R Smith (9/78) About 10m right of Act the Maggot there is a crack about one-third way up. Climb up on small holds to a ledge and continue left to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
09 - Equus VS 4c Length: 12m G Colhoun, A Tees (10/9/89) Approximately Sm left of HMS Wasp steep holds can be found leading to a shallow groove. Scale up these to this, above which thinnish climbing will deposit one on the top. Nice bold climbing on good rock. Stake belay in situ. G Colhoun, A Tees (10/9/89) View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
10 - H.M.S.Wasp VS 4c Length: 12m A Tees, G Colhoun (10/9/89) This takes the slightly overhanging right-angled corner left of Lord Inchiquin. Frequently wet. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
11 - Lord Inchiquin HS 4b Length: 60m A Tees, R Smith (Alt leads), S Hamilton (8/77) About 5m right of Winkelpickler there is a nose with a gap at the bottom. On the other side there is a crack in the corner which is climbed to a terrace. Climb corner above to ledge below overhang. Move left and climb steep corner on good holds. A Tees, R Smith (Alt leads), S Hamilton (8/77) View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
12 - Razorback E3 5b Length: 12m N Grimes, solo, A Millar Rip-roaring climbing up the sharp arete left of the nose of Lord Inchiquin and immediately left of the corner of HMS Wasp. Climb the undercut arete on its left, slabby side, to a foot ledge. Now, finish up a metre or so left of the arete, where a crank will bring you nose-to-nose with a flat hold and thence salvation. Utterly serious climbing with the crux being saved for the last move. N Grimes, solo, A Millar View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
13 - General Galtieri's Corned Beef Butty VS 4b Length: 12m R Smith, A Tees (3/8/82) General Galtieri's Corned Beef 13m VS.4b Bully This takes the shallow nose just left of the Great Stone Chute. Start: From a large jammed block at its base. Climb the nose and step awkwardly right to gain a crack. Climb this to the top. R Smith, A Tees (3/8/82) View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
14 - The Wizard VS 4b Length: 12m A Tees, R Smith (3/08/82) Start about 3m right of Galtieris Corned Beef Bully. Climb slab and surmount overhang and shelf before moving right into corner. Layback up crack to top. /8/82A Tees, R Smith (3) View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
15 - Warm Up VS 4b Length: 20m M Manson, A Tees (10/77) Scramble up to base of wide fissure in corner high up on right hand side of crag. In the right-hand wall a slightly overhanging crack is found. Climb it and veer left to the top. A strenuous climb, especially in the wet. M Manson, A Tees (10/77) View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
16 - Boom Boom E2 5b Length: 10m D O'Sullivan, J Dugdale (5.7 92) This climbs the wall right of Warm Up and immediately left of the superb arete on the upper section of McSwyne's Buttress. Start at the toe of the arete. Easy climbing leads up for 4m and then left to a large flake. Move up to a narrow ledge and left again for 2m to a block and crack. Go up and tend right and back left again to finish direct up the centre of the wall. Bold climbing, but low in the grade. D O'Sullivan, J Dugdale (5.7 92) View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
17 - Gin Trap S 4a Length: 12m A Tees, M Manson (10/77) Below and right of Warm Up there is a corner above a ledge at about 2m. Climb to ledge and up corner surmounting overhang rock on the left. Continue up corner rightwards to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
18 - Soaring Forties HS 4b Length: 14m A Tees, R Smith (22/5/83) Start: Just across the Stone Chute from Balor's Pinnacle is an obvious tower in two tiers. On its righthand side is a corner with fine cracks in it. Climb corner until able to move left to edge and up to platform. Wide crack leads to smaller ledge and further crack to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
19 - Forty Winks VS 4b Length: 14m A Tees, R Smith (22/5/83) On the left-hand side of the tower is an obvious rightangled corner which is climbed. This route finishes with the third crack mentioned in Soaring Forties. A Tees, R Smith (22/5/83) View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
20 - Crackatee S 3c Length: 10m A. Tees. R. Smith 3/8/82 About 23m left of the top of Tory Canyon there is an off-width crack. To the right of this is an undulating wall. Climb the crack, the angle eases half way up. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
21 - Leitrim's Ladder VD - Length: 10m A, Tees. P McCandless 7/8/83 About 12m right of Crackatee is a wide crack rising in steps with jammed chockstones. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
22 - Fadge D - Length: 8m Alan Tees, Cnlumba McLaughlin. 5/9/99 About 6m. right of 'Leitrims Ladder' is an obvious easy corner. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
23 - Surge VS 4c Length: 5m Columba McLaughlin, Alan Tees 5/9/99 1 m left of `Fadge' , is a right-angled corner. Move up rightwards into it, and attack the crux using a small flake in the corner, and foothold on the left arete. Continue up the corner to the top more easily. Columba McLaughlin, Alan Tees 51 View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route