Editor: Rocky Gap | |
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Crag Profile: Rocky Gap |
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Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes |
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Directions: Probably the most remote crag in the county, being at least 1.5 hours from either Lough Barra or Dunlewy, (with considerable ascent). From L.Barra, follow the river (Scardangel Burn) up the waterfall, past the lake between Sl Snaght and Crockbrack, to a col, and traverse to the obvious deep gully running East- West up the hill, on the right hand side. The routes are mainly on the LHS, but the is a clean buttress higher up on the right. OS Grid Reference: B932155 Click here to view location in Google Maps |
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68 - Baysellance
Length: 30m C Roberts, A Tees (15/6/85) Take the conspicuous flight of stairs towards the bottom of the crag. Access is gained via a hard move on the right. Easier variations on the left via chimney.
C Roberts, A Tees (15/6/85)
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69 - Scardangel
Length: 25m A Tees, P Turley, C Roberts (15/6/85) Takes the obvious big, cleaned,( since reclaimed for nesting purposes), cornerl0m right of Baysellance
up to overhang, then move out left and up groove. A Tees, P Turley, C Roberts (15/6/85)
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70 - Rampant
HS 4bLength: 25m P Turley, A Tees, C Roberts (15/6/85) Climb straight up broken wall 3m right of Scardangal to reach a left trending ramp, which is climbed to overhangs. Make a long step right to a ledge and follow left hand corner to belay on left. Direct Finish (4c) - instead of stepping right below overhang, follow a crack running up its left hand side. Good route.
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71 - Winding Stair
HS 4aLength: 30m Roberts, P Turley (16/6/85) 1) 15m Start at the red wardrobe sized, recess towards top of gully. Gain the ledge of the recess, then use the left hand corner to gain sloping ledge above. Move right on this ledge and climb corner to a flat ledge on right. Move right around arete and up to bigger ledge and belay.
2) 15m Follow arete to top, moving right to finish. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
72 - Definitely not a Wardrobe
Length: 30m P Turley (solo) (16/6/85) 1) 15m Just around the corner to the right of the red recess is a narrow pillar attached to the wall. Climb this to top of vegetation and step up to ledge at top of Pitch 1 of Winding Stair.
2) 15m As Winding Stair. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
73 - Rocky Gap Ridge
Length: 30m A Tees, R J Lee (21/9.75) Rocky Gap Ridge 30m D
Follow the arete on the right hand side of the minor gully separating the upper section of the buttress. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
74 - Departure Imminent
HVS 5aLength: 40m P Turley, C Roberts (16/6/85) 1) 20m The left hand side of the twin buttress on the right of the main gully is characterised by large overhangs at mid-height. Start at the bottom of arete to left of large central overhang. Climb left side of arete (stepping into corner on left for short stretch) until level with bottom of overhang. Traverse right (crux) to large overhang, then up slightly left to good holds and belay ledge.
2) 20m Scramble to top.
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75 - High King
Length: 35m A Tees, C Roberts (Alt leads) (15/6/85) 1) 15m Start 2m right of the minor gully separating the twin buttresses, at an indefinite corner. Climb the obvious line of weakness on steep but superb rock to ledge.
2) 20m Continue up same joint system to top, turning a small overhang by the face on the right. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
