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Editor: Poisoned Glen (Last Small Buttress).

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Crag Profile: Poisoned Glen (Last Small Buttress).

Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes

Directions: This is a group of small buttresses high on the right hand side of the glen, and overlooking the West Buttress. The walk in is long, and the routes are shorter than others in the glen, but the rock can also be cleaner and is east facing.

OS Grid Reference: B937168

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51 - Rattlesnake Rib
*
VD -
Length: 54m
S Rothery F Winder (Alt leads) (29/3/59)

Route takes the well defined rib on the left of the central or largest of the crags.

  1. 12m Climb broken rock up the edge of the first steepness.
  2. 12m Climb the groove immediately left of the edge to a small stance.
  3. 18m Follow the rib on excellent rock as near the edge as possible.
  4. 12m Continue up the rib. The first steepness can be avoided.

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52 - Anaconda Corner
S 4a
Length: 60m
R Finlay H Moore, T Hawkins (Alt leads) (22/10/74)

Start: The topmost of the buttress presents a steep red wall to the valley. The Central crack of this wall is taken by Mamba. Left of the red wall is Cobra Cracks and left of this is a prominent rib, above and right of two converging grass gullies. Anaconda Corner starts at this rib.

  1. 42m Climb steep grass and rock to corner recess under steep crack.
  2. 18m Climb steep crack to pedestal stance at 6m. Up open leaf corner on poor finger jams to pinch grips on flake. Step left and up easy rock and steep grass to belay.

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53 - Cobra Cracks
HS 4b
Length: 38m
S Rothery, F Winder (29/3/59)

Start: The line to the left of the red wall, going up chimneys and cracks to under the prominent overhang.

  1. 21 m Move up to the base of a steep narrow chimney formed by a detached block. Climb the chimney strenuously and then continue up the next steep crack and out onto a large grass ledge by steep vegetation.
  2. 21 m Move up to the base of a steep narrow chimney and climb it until it becomes possible to straddle across to a narrow ledge from which an awkward mantleshelf is made to the next step. The short chimney to the left of the overhang is climbed to a large ledge.
  3. 5m A wall, with difficult mantleshelf, leads to the top.

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54 - Mamba
*
VS -
Length: 33m
T Hand, E Goulding (2/6/79)

Start: In the centre of the red wall right of Cobra Cracks is an obvious groove. Start up the cracks right of the groove.

  1. 15m Climb cracks and good holds, occasionally moving left to the rib, to a long narrow ledge.
  2. 18m Follow the ledge rightwards to gain the terrace above. Finish up the final wall by huge flake.

One further route has been recorded, which may take the same line as Mamba. It was called College Route and climbed by A J Maxfield and M Rittman.


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