Name: Climbfest 2024
Start: 2024-05-03T00:00:00+00:00
End: 2024-05-06T23:59:59+00:00
Location: Malin Head

Editor: Poisoned Glen (Creag Na Mbreac)
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Crag Profile: Poisoned Glen (Creag Na Mbreac)
Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes
Creag Na Mbreac - A) Bad Blood. B) Dubious Maiden. C/.Tarantula. D/.Tio Pepe. E/.Fiona. F/.Ectamorph. G/.Hammer and Sickle H/.Lal. I/.Pick and Shovel. J/.Valerian.
Directions: About half way up the North-Eastern (left) side of the glen, and about 40 minutes walk in, is this steep south facing crag. The crag forms tha back wall of a shallow bay, flanked by broken buttresses The most obvious features are a large forested ledge, just left of centre and about 10m up from the base, and a deep corner gully to the left. The crag dries quickly, but routes need a clean and are probably undergraded. OS Grid Reference: B924180 Click here to view location in Google Maps
01 - White Walls VD - Length: 75m P Gribbon, K Clauss, D Sloan, D Bond (4/55) White Walls 75m VD A poor route up the broken rocks on the left of the gully mentioned above. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
02 - Dubious Malden * HS 4b Length: 20m A Tees, G Colhoun (28/9/85) This route takes the obvious crack line at the bottom of the left-hand wall of the gully just left of Tarantula. Climb the lower crack easily to gain the heathery ledge. Continue jamming steeply up the continuation crack to the top. Good climbing. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
03 - Bad Blood E1 5b Length: 25m I Rea, M Rea, J Milligan (11/4/93) Start 2m left of'Dubious Maiden' at the base of steep arete. Climb the wall just right of the arete to ledge, then steeply up arete to grass ledge, then up short hand crack to finish out left via small alcove. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
04 - Tarantula S - Length: 42m B A Fuller, R B Evans (Alt leads) (8/57) Start: At the base of the gully mentioned above. The route follows the left of the buttress to the right of the gully. 1) 17m Scramble up to a short square chimney and climb this to heather ledge 2) 10m Climb the wall above to a small spike, then step left onto the rib. Up to holly bush and belay. 3) 15m Climb crack behind belay to gain a ledge on the left. Continue up the wall and crack above to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
05 - Tio Pepe * HS 4b Length: 78m H Drasdo, E Healy (Alt leads), F Winder (8/55 Start: At the base of the buttress immediately right of the left-hand gully. 1) 33m At the base of the buttress is a flake. Climb the crack to the left of this, exiting on the left of the block at the top. Continue easily up to the base of the main wall with orange markings. 2) 9m Move slightly right and up the obvious crack. 3) 36m Ascend the gully above moving right towards the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
07 - Ectamorph HS Length: 57m H Drasdo, M Downing (4/56) Start: As for Fiona 20m Climb corner crack to a steep heather ledge leading right to a good stance with large flake. 22m Descend ledge to top of crack and move left into corner. Up this with increasing difficulty. Gain narrow chimney on the left and climb this to stance with loose blocks and belay in niche above. 15m Move left from the niche into corner of the buttress and up to good ledge on Tio Pepe. Follow the easy ground to top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
08 - Fiona * * VS Length: 57m G J Sutton, A J Maxfield (3/4/59) Start: 6m right of Tio Pepe where a steep crack leads up to a little square cut overhang. 30m Climb crack to overhang at 5m. Turn this to the right (crux) and follow cracks to sentry box below a big block. Bridge up and gain crack on the left which is followed to vegetation and ledge below corner crack. 27m From here the direct finish climbs the obvious crack on the wall behind and then scrambles off. The original route climbs the corner crack to another ledge at 6m. From here gain ivy groove on the right and follow it to another ledge. Step left from this and follow crack to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
08 - Hammer and Sickle HVS 5a Length: 45m G.J.Sutton, H.Drasdo 20/04/57, C.Torrans F.F.A of pitch 3 20/04/81. Start: Below the highest point of the crag is a rightangled corner widening to form a huge flake, with the forested ledge to the left. Start at the foot of this corner. 1) 24m Climb the corner crack which after a block at 9m widens into a chimney. Continue up to top of flake and traverse left to grass ledge. 2) 10m Move up vegetation trending left to another ledge. Move right to the huge grass balcony in the middle of the face. Lal joins the route from the right at this point and shares the final pitch. 3/. 20m. From the left end of the balcony, climb vegetated rock to reach clean overhanging rightward facing corner, which is followed to top. It is possible to avoid this crux pitch by traversing left off the balcony to join Tio Pepe. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
09 - Lal * HVS 5b Length: 60m C Sheridan, C Torrans (20/4/81) 5b, 5a + 1 aid point Start: This route takes the wall between Hammer and Sickle and Pick and Shovel, following a ramp trending left to the big grass balcony and finishing up Hammer and Sickle. Start below and to the left of some large flakes in the middle of the wall. 1) 40m Climb flakes and crack to gain ramp, passing old peg. Continue up with increasing difficulty until horizontal crack below final bulge is reached. Traverse right, gain ledge on right with one nut for aid. Continue easily to gain large grass terrace/balcony as for Hammer and Sickle. 2) 20m As for Hammer and Sickle Pitch 3. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
10 - Pick and Shovel * * HVS 5a Length: 60m C Torrans, C Sheridan (17/6/78) 5a, 5a Start: This route takes the obvious left facing deep corner on the right-hand side of the crag. 1) 39m Climb the corner moving left, then right with difficulty. Continue up and left passing a small tree to reach a small ledge and corner. Climb corner to overhang and move left under this on good holds to belay on the ledge above. 2) 21 m Climb the short corner behind the belay, passing a large detached flake on the left. Belay well back. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
11 - Valerian * HVS 5a Length: 50m C Torrans, C Sheridan (18/6/78) HVS. 5a, 4b Start: To the right of Pick and Shovel. 1) 30m Climb up and right below overhang, pulling out of corner on the right onto wall above and small ledges above overhang. Move slightly right then up wall for 9m before moving left onto the clean edge of a heathery ledge. Climb the twin cracks on the right-hand side of the wall above to reach large belay ledge. 2) 20m Move right into a heather bay and climb the crack (block to start) in the left facing wall to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route