Colmcille Climbers

Start: Half way up left hand side of the crag, 24m up from Tuning Fork Flake. 1) 21 m Climb crack to surmount small triangular block at 5m. Climb up onto grass ledge. Move left, surmount detached block. Continue up, then follow a crack to right of tongue of vegetation to the top:
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HS.4a, 4a Start: This route takes a line up the corner edge of the crag finishing up an obvious corner capped by a detached block. 1) 18m From about 1 m left of the corner climb up left to the foot of an overhanging corner with a triangular back wall. Up this strenuously but on good holds to grassy slab. Move left easily up slab to corner belay. 2) 15m Climb the wall above, pulling out past the vibrating flake to reach easy ground above.
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Start: This route takes the easiest line of resistance up the main face, in a rising traverse from left to right, starting 1m right of Tuning Fork Flake and finishing up Gas Guzzler, very exposed but well protected. Follow the obvious rib of broken rock to reach at about 20m, a black corner. Step down and right to a small ledge, then bridge round the corner rib to a crystalline rock bay This is the top of Gas Guzzler. Take the wall above, or more easily take the chimney on the right of the wall, then move back left to the top. Best belay about 2m below the top.
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This route takes an almost parallel but lower line to Waterloo, joining it at the step round into Gas Guzzler. Start: At a sloping shelf about 2m right of Waterloo on the main face. An awkward start leads up and right to the foot of a steep black corner, climb the right wall of this at its right end (crux) and move left into steep but juggy wall corner Qoining Flyover at this point). Up this wall to join Waterloo at the step round the black corner into Gas Guzzler and finish.
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Start halfway between Fear Gorta 1 and Flyover at a groove line. Gain the groove with difficulty, and then move easily upwards to join Fear Gorta 1 at a steep corner. Pull up the steep right wall of this and up a juggy wall above to reach Waterloo at a ramp. Carry on straight up to the base of a corner, as the wall steepens make a series of difficult moves to gain the upper ramp. Follow this to the top.
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This route takes a direct line up the left-hand side of the main face, starting about 4m right of Fear Gorta 1, crossing it and Waterloo at mid-height and continuing straight up the steep wall above. Sustained in the upper section but well protected. Start easily up a series of rock steps to the foot of a steep cracked wall, with large sloping shelf on the right. Up the wall with increasing difficulty until an awkward high step leads to a sloping ramp. Move round the corner left to join the steep juggy corner of Fear Gorta 1, and continue up the ramp of Waterloo. Continue straight up the wall above, bridging left into a deep groove at about mid-height and continuing with increasing difficulty to a good flake about 3m from the top. Step left and make one more awkward move up to good jugs and finish.
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Start 1.5m right of Flyover. Climb into the base of the obvious corner, and from here join Flyover. Follow this to the broken ledge at half height. Move 1.5m right and climb the steep wall bridging right passing a small loose flake (crux). Continue on up the corner to finish on good jugs.
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Start: At the bottom of the thin vertical crackline up the middle of the main wall to the right of Tuning Fork Crack. 1) 36m Bridge the two parallel cracks !o the small overhang at 4m. Swing round left into the crackline. Follow this to a short bulge (crux) and then on more easily to the foot of a slightly impending wall. Move left across this to a rocky bay. Back right up a short corner, onto easy ground and the top. Belays are either at a small stance 2m below the top or a long way back.
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S.3c, 4a Start: Route takes the rib on the left of the large grassy recess, steps to the right of the tree belay, and continues up the dirty corner above. 1) 15m Climb easily up clean rock on the rib. One awkward move to gain a large block and then step right into the grass and tree belay. 2) 15m Climb the deep corner on the left above, bridge up the two nearly parallel grooves. Exit left on steep heather. The original description was very vague and the route was also done under the name of Abba in 1974.
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 Pitch 1. 3C 15m Climb easily up clean rock on the rib. One awkward move to gain a large block and then step right into the grass and tree belay.

 Pitch 2. 5A 20m Climb the deep corner on the left, with many contortions, exit direct onto an excellent wee grassy ledge, 2m below summit.

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VS.4b,4c Start as for Folly Wolly Doodle. 1) Up the right edge of the buttress as for Folly Wolly Doodle until ledge where it steps right to grass. Continue delicately up edge of slab to grass ledge and corner on left. 2) An awkward move up and then left leads to good ledge. Continue up cracks in the wall above to the top. Belay is a long way back.
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Start: Right of Folly Wolly Doodle is a fine buttress extending about half-way up the crag, split by a thin crack with an overhang at mid-height. A layback start leads to good finger jamming up to the overhang. Step left and rest before the crux moves up the crack above. Up the crest of the buttress to belay. Either traverse left to Pitch 2 of Folly Wolly Doodle or, climb right, up grassy and broken ground to the top.
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A fine technical corner which can be linked with Confusion to give a good sustained afternoon out. Alternatively, approach by the first pitch of Folly Wolly Doodle. Start at the grass ledge half-way up the right side of the crag. Climb up the initial corner to gain a small ledge below the main corner. Make some difficult bridging moves up the corner to reach good flakes on the left, leading to an easier finish.
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E1.5b, 4c On the right-hand side of Blaeberry Crag is a steep right (or east for those of you with a compass) facing wall split by a crack. 1) 10m Climb the crack with poor protection at the crux at 5m to a shoulder. 2) 15m Move up grass ledges on the right to the foot of double cracks in the upper tier. Bridge up these, over a bulge, to a ramp on the right. Move back left into the crack, and so to the top. Could be done in one pitch for all the rope-drag lovers amongst you.
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