Editor: Lough Belshade (High Crags) | |
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Crag Profile: Lough Belshade (High Crags) |
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Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes |
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Directions: The High Crag and the Very High Crag are directly above Blaeberry Buttress, and form upper tiers of this outcrop. OS Grid Reference: G983900 Click here to view location in Google Maps |
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29 - Dead Man's Ladder
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VD -Length: 30m C Boyd, P Gribbon, D Naylor, H Elliot (8/58) Start: At the corner of the crag where the south wall turns left up the hill.
Climb the steep wall on excellent holds for 15m. Step round to the right and gain a shallow groove up a steep slab. Follow this to the top.
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30 - Hombre
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HS 4aLength: 65m J Bent, P Donnelly K Bent (Alt leads) 18/6/75) HS.4a, 3b, 3c Start: Above large block (3m right of Dead Man's Ladder).
1) 18m Climb corner crack by excellent layback to ledge on the left. Belay at bottom of arete above. 2) 24m Move right into corner. Climb crack, moving right onto face near top. Exit on large platform. Scramble over rock and grass to rightward side of wall.
3) 13m Above large block, mantleshelf onto ledge. Move right and up on small holds to top.
(The first pitch provides good climbing but the remainder is rather contrived. In 1981 P Turley and A Martin cleaned the first pitch and thinking it was unclimbed called it Women's Choice).
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31 - Toblerone
Length: 27m P Turley, A Martin (4/4/81) Start: 13m right of Dead Man's Ladder at a deep crack that forks in two after 5m.
1) 18m Follow the deep crack, pulling up to the left at the triangular block at the fork. Follow corner to vegetation at top. Belay at grassy ledge.
2) 9m Climb up slanting wall to arete to the right of grassy ledge. Take large step back left into wide bottomed crack and follow this to the top.
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32 - A Midge Too Far
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VS 5aLength: 10m D McNiff, D Stelfox (2/9/89) A short but good quality pitch which starts from the top of the first pitch of Hombre, and giving a better finish to that route. Follow the crack in the left wall of the upper tier just beside Hombre's first belay.
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33 - Dambusters
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E2 5cLength: 20m D Stelfox, P Mallon (2/9/89) A spanking route up the obvious crack between Hombre and Toblerone. Make a bouldering start rightwards and then swing back left on a good jug to
gain the deep layaway crack. Follow this more easily to gain the steep upper cracks and a small ramp on the left. Shuffle up this to its highest point, and then with awkward jamming, reach good holds on the left wall (crux). Follow the crack more easily to the top.
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34 - Fudge Fingers
Length: 20m D McNiff, D Stelfox (2/9/89) Start as for Toblerone, but follow the right hand of the forked cracks. This leads across the slabs to the right arete which is followed to the top. Finish up Toblerone or walk off leftwards.
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35 - Foreign Body
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HVS 5aLength: 36m D Kilpatrick, W Brown-Kerr D Stelfox (25,8/84) Start: At the right hand side of the south face of the crag is a broad, clean slab running the full height of the crag and curving off gently at the bottom. The climb starts at the bottom, left edge of this slab. Climb the first 8m easily to an overlap as the slab steepens. Bridge up twin cracks for 2m, then swing left on a good flake (crux). Move back right on to the slab and continue up more easily on good ledges. Move right towards the top and finish on the right edge.
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36 - Delhi Belly
Length: 35m P Mallon, S Wheeler (7/87) The corner/groove line right of Foreign Body, with the crux near the bottom.
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37 - Rejuvenation
Length: 13m 8 McDermott, S McCrory (22/4/79) Start: Left-hand wall of the "Very High" crag beside some large fallen blocks about 10m up from left-hand arete and Joint Effort.
Move up on good holds to small ledge. Climb obvious overhanging chimney (awkward and strenuous). Move right from the top of the chimney across small grassy slab. Move up to belay in corner.
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38 - Joint Effort
Length: 30m P Turley, A Martin (5/4/81 ) Start: On the Very High Crag,at the edge between the high vertical west facing walls and broken south face.
Follow arete on small holds for short distance and then bridge up shallow corner to the top
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39 - Northwest Passage
Length: 12m V Russell, A Tees (20/7/86) Start 30m left of Rejuvenation. Climb a steep wall on good holds to reach an obvious overhanging corner. Now thrutch up the tantalising off-width crack above. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route |