Name: Climbfest 2024
Start: 2024-05-03T00:00:00+00:00
End: 2024-05-06T23:59:59+00:00
Location: Malin Head

Editor: Gola - NW Zawn Area
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Crag Profile: Gola - NW Zawn Area
Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes

Directions: This zawn is at the end of the Gola Highway. It has a Ã¢â‚¬ËœDuirlingÃ¢â‚¬â„¢, or Bouldery beach and corners at its head. Its east wall has a prominent detached leaning tower, and massive rocks lying precariously on steep slopes above. Routes are numbered L-R as if you were looking at the crag from the sea. OS Grid Reference: B762275 Click here to view location in Google Maps
1 - An Sron E4 6a No length recorded C. Torrans C. Sheridan 15 Sept 96 This route takes the left trending groove that runs into the wide crack on the face of the prow. Climb the groove (difficult bridging and layaways) to reach good edges under the roof. Follow the crack around onto the face (a knee-lock gives a hands off rest) just above the roof. Continue up the crack on slopers and jams. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
2 - Vanishing Point E1 5b No length recorded C. Torrans, C Sheridan 8 Sept 96 An excellent route on perfect granite with good protection. The route takes the corner and crack on the east wall just right of the non-tidal ledge. Start from the ledge, climb down and right to a good crack and follow this past an overhang and corners to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
0 - Transatlantic HS 4c Length: 15m C.Hayes, M.Young - June 2003 Climbs the small sea stack. A step across from the mainland ledge gains the groove in the centre of the wall via a hard move. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
2 - Holographic Universe HVS 5a Length: 20m Thomas Prebble, Conor Gilmour (ground up on sight) 10/Jun/2012 This route takes the thin crack to the right of the black dyke. Move up the thin crack on steepening ground to gain the ledge. Continue up on positive crimps as the crack widens. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
2 - The Ubiquitous Blue E1 5b Length: 22m RÃ³nÃ¡n Kernan, Conor Gilmour 6/6/12 (ground up on sight) On the far side of the zawn from Ghost Road is a prominent leaning pinnacle, slightly detached from the main wall. This route takes the corner crack on the northern side of the pinnacle, passing through a small roof at one third height. Good protection and solid rock (at least for your right foot anyway) Belay well back. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
0 - The Third Policeman HVS 5a Length: 22m RÃ³nÃ¡n Kernan, Stuart Abraham 9/6/13 A good corner climb on excellent rock. On the far side of the zawn from Ghost Road is a prominent leaning pinnacle, slightly detached from the main wall. This route takes the corner crack on the southern side of the pinnacle. Take care with dubious chockstones and big cams would be useful. Belay as for The Ubiquitous Blue. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
2 - Smuggling Raisins HVS 5a Length: 20m Thomas Prebble, Conor Gilmour (ground up, on sight) 09/Jun/2012 This takes the steepening ramp on the left side of the pillar, opposite Ghost Road. Move awkwardly over the bulge to the base of the ramp. Continue up the right side of the ramp on increasingly delicate moves, traversing left at the top to avoid a loose top out. Belay far back on the right. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
2 - Inscrutability Puff E2 5c Length: 20m Conor Gilmour, RÃ³nÃ¡n Kernan (ground up, on sight) 06/Jun/2012 Opposite Ghost Road in Northwest Zawn at the top of the cliff lie some prominent and precarious looking slabs with a short tunnel through them. Not far left of this is a rising right to left fist-size crack with a small roof at the bottom. Climb this, taking care with loose rock at the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
2 - Louse House HS 4b Length: 18m Stuart Abraham, RÃ³nÃ¡n Kernan 9/6/13 5m Right of Inscrutability Puff. Climb the obvious right-to-left crack to an alcove. Climb onto a pedestal on the left then step right, finishing up the blocky pillar. Take care with loose rock at the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
2 - Wizard's Sleeve E1 5b Length: 18m C. Gilmour, T. Prebble 09/06/12 Take the inland facing slab on the corner to the left of “Ghost Road,” negotiate the delicate slab whilst attempting to place your smallest gear. Stay left at the top as the right edge is a tad loose. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
3 - Ghost Road E1 5b Length: 20m I. Rea, M. Rea 15 Sept 96 The next two routes climb the steep, north-facing black wall that has a tapering cave to its right, near the back of the zawn. The superb left arÃƒÂªte of the wall, climbed on its left hand side. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
4 - War Music E2 5b Length: 20m I. Rea, M. Rea 15 Sept 96 Near the left side of this wall is a short chimney, leading to a short left facing corner, then a flake then an impending crack. This is the route. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
5 - Cygnus VS 4c Length: 30m I. Rea, M. Rea 7 Sept 96 The following three routes all face east and ascend the black slabby wall, tucked in at the west corner of the boulder strewn cove. They can be climbed at lowish tide. Ascend the flaky crack just right of the corner. Where it peters out, step right onto small foot ledges about 4m below the top. Finish on small holds beside a thin crack. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
6 - Frantic Heart HVS 5a Length: 30m I. Rea, M. Rea 7 Sept 96 Start 2m right of Cygnus. Climb small holds on the wall just left of the arÃƒÂªte and gain a good ledge at 1/3 height. From here climb up good holds on the left of the arÃƒÂªte to a point where, from good flakes, a short step up and left gains a crack. Gain ledge and finish as for Cygnus. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
7 - Shifting skies VS 4c Length: 30m I. Rea, M. Rea 7 Sept 96 Start right of the arete at a hand crack. Go up this a short bit until big holds lead left to the arete. Climb the arete directly to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
8 - A Man Escaped S Length: 25m I. Rea, M. Rea 14 Sept 96 Follows the next fault left of Old Friends, finishing left of a nose. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
9 - Old Friends S Length: 25m I. Rea, M. Rea, S. Willis 14 Sept 96 This route faces east and takes the cracked fault just left of the right hand edge of the north-facing buttress View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
10 - Bagpipe Music VS 4c Length: 25m I. Rea, M. Rea 14 Sept 96 The following three routes are accessible at most states of the tide, but by abseil only. Right of Old Friends is a series of sloping ledges. There are large loose blocks directly above these ledges, so it is best to approach down the following route. From the ledges climb the left edge, up flakes and then a tight little corner. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
12 - Nexus 6 HVS 5a Length: 25m I. Rea, M. Rea 14 Sept 96 From the right side of the ledges follow a blocky corner to its top. Go left to a crack and up this to a good ledge just below the top View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
11 - Libra VS 4c Length: 25m I. Rea, M. Rea 14 Sept 96 Just left of Nexus 6. Climb the blocky arÃƒÂªte to gain a ledge at the flake crack on Nexus 6. Make a long step left around a corner to a foot ledge. Avoid the slightly loose corner by climbing the edge to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
13 - The Neb VS 4b No length recorded C. Torrans, C Sheridan 7 Sept 96 Abseil down the neb to ledges, depending on the tide. Start under and just left of the neb, climb cracks and a block to the top passing on the left side of the neb. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
14 - Street Sharks VS 4c No length recorded C. Sheridan, C Torrans 7 Sept 96 Start as for The Neb. Follow the right trending cracks. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
16 - Seapink E1 5b No length recorded C. Sheridan C. Torrans 7 July 96 Abseil to the broad ledge and traverse along the ledge to a short corner. Climb the corner crack to top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
15 - Blackie VS 4b No length recorded C. Sheridan, C. Torrans 15 Sept 96 The following routes begin from a long continuous ledge at the base of the north-facing wall directly opposite the sea-stack/island. The ledge is clear at low tides and is reached by abseil or from the descent-route described for Fokisit Wall (See below). This route climbs the crack in the black recess at the east end of the wall. Abseil down the arÃƒÂªte to a broad ledge that runs along the main face. Continue down to ledges (tidal) or belay above. Climb the arÃƒÂªte for 2 metres and move left to the wide crack. Follow this to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
17 - Outdoor Relief HVS 5a No length recorded C. Torrans, C. Sheridan 15 Sept 96 Climb the wall just right of the arÃƒÂªte and move right to big jugs. Continue up the wall above and finish up the slim groove on the right (several possible finishes) View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
18 - Buffalo Bills VS 4b Length: 25m I.Rea, M. Rea 8 Sept 96 Just left of the recess at the right side of the steep wall. Climb a right slanting crack that leads into a V shaped niche. Gain ledges above the niche, go right and climb a short left facing corner View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
23 - Bird Song VD Length: 25m I Rea, M. Rea 8 Sept 96 Just right of Cold Mountain and follow a line of flakes diagonally up right towards a knob. Go past this to a ledge, and then finish up left. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
20 - Mushrooms HVS 5a Length: 25m I. Rea, M. Rea 8 Sept 96 Climbs the right hand corner of the alcove to a hand crack then an easy ramp. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
21 - L'Atalante VS Length: 25m I Rea, M Rea (8/9/96) Follows the left edge of the triangular buttress. Climb easily up a few blocky ledges then step right on to the face and follow the left edge delicately to gain the easy ramp off. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
22 - Cold Mountain VS 4b Length: 25m I. Rea, M. Rea 8 Sept 96 Takes a direct line to the apex of the buttress. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
19 - Sick Rose VS 4c Length: 25m I.Rea, M. Rea 8 Sept 96 Climbs the left hand and slightly overhung corner of the alcove, exiting right at the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route