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Editor: Gola - Binatoke NE Wall

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Crag Profile: Gola - Binatoke NE Wall

Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes

Directions: Binatoke is the long bay to the north west of the Maol murrinagh headland. At the seaward end of this area there is a short vertical wall. The next three routes are located on this wall and are accessed by scrambling down carefully at its seaward (north) end.

OS Grid Reference: B759273

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27 - Martin's No 1
E1 5b
No length recorded
M.Daly, P.McGarrity 14 Sept 96
This climbs an offwidth crack at the left end of the wall. Climb the wall right of the offwidth on small holds to the overhang. Make a hard move up to reach jugs above the overhang, which are climbed to the top.
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28 - Stowaway
E1 5b
No length recorded
M.Daly, P.McGarrity 14 Sept 96
The next crack right and in the centre of the wall. Climb the crack leftwards to a groove. Climb this and trend rightward up a diagonal crack to finish.
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29 - Paul's No 1.
HVS 5a
No length recorded
P.McGarrity, M.Daly 14 Sept 96
The crack 2m right of Stowaway. Climb the crack on good holds. The crux is just below the top.
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30 - Seaside Groove
VD
No length recorded
P.McArthur (Solo) 16 June 96

Further into the bay, there is a prominent open corner crack, taken by 20 Yards A'Groanin'. The following routes are described in relation to this.

Climbs the open blocky groove just left of Mental Block. Beware of possible loose stuff near the top.(Understatement of the year)


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31 - Mental Block
E2 5c
No length recorded
S.McMullan, P.Breen 30 June '96
The leftward trending undercut crack is climbed with a committing move to reach good holds and gear. The crux now involves deciding which of the positive handholds and negative footholds to use. Rock up right for a Thank God. Proceed rightwards cautiously along a line of flakes to join and finish as for Westerly.
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32 - Westerly
E1 5b
No length recorded
P.Breen, S.McMullan 1 June '96
Climb the steep wall and thin crack to the left of 20 Yards A'Groanin'.
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33 - 20 Yards a Groanin
* *
S
No length recorded
A. Tees, K.Deery, B.Johnston 12 June \'93
The obvious wide crack on the right hand side of the bay.
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34 - Atlantic Shore
E1 5b
No length recorded
P.Breen, S.McMullan 1 June '96
Climb the wall just right of 20 yds to gain cracks at half-height. Continue up these to the top.
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35 - The Tempest
E2 5c
No length recorded
P.Breen, S.McMullan 1 June '96
Beneath the overhangs to the right of 20 yds there is a thin crack and right facing groove. Climb this to get established beneath the overhangs. Continue up and right beneath overhangs to the top.
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36 - Jimmy Gogola
HVS 5a
No length recorded
S.McMullan, M.Daly Sept '96
Start on the leftward trending ramp 20m right of 20 yards a groanin'. Climb the ramp which is backed by a very wide crack. Easy but unprotected. The overhanging corner rears above and with a single tricky move to get established, excellent holds are reached. Good protection from large cams. Jug haul to the top but beware of brittle rock.
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