Editor: Gola - Binatoke SW Wall | |
What would you like to do today? | |
| < | |
Crag Profile: Gola - Binatoke SW Wall |
|||
Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes |
|||
Directions: This is the long bay to the north west of the Maol murrinagh headland. OS Grid Reference: B759273 Click here to view location in Google Maps |
|||
37 - The Fan
No length recorded C. Torrans, C. Sheridan 6 July 96 On the west wall of Binatoke inlet, there are four symmetrically shaped corners. This route takes the second from left of these. Good climbing in an exposed situation on excellent granite. Abseil to slabs below the corners. Climb the slabs easily to the corner. Up this to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
38 - Lynx
No length recorded C. Sheridan, C. Torrans 6 July 96 This is the third corner. Start as for The Fan. Climb the slabs to the corner and follow this to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
39 - No.4 Corner
Length: 25m M.Daly, P.McGarrity 1 June '96 The route takes the fourth corner i.e. the furthest one out from the back of the inlet. Abseil to a good ledge left of the corner (viewed from above). From the ledge step left and climb the slab on good holds to the base of a corner. Climb the corner (crux) to the top. Route can also be started from ledge at sea level under big roof with a leftwards traverse to gain corner: (35+m) View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
40 - Flirting with The Void
No length recorded P.Harrington, P.Breen At the left end of the mother of all roofs is a crack, which runs from the roof to the top. The route follows this crack. Abseil to a small stance just above the roof. (Alternatively, if you want to wet your panties and create a new high grade super line, abseil below the roof to ledges which are visible at low tide). Climb the crack for a few metres until the holds become less positive. A technical move (crux) leads to easier going until just below the top where another more difficult move is encountered. Make this and exit. Not strenuous and low in the grade. Good protection. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
41 - Doppler Effect
No length recorded M.Daly, O O'Regan 30 June '96 The next crack left of Sidewinder. Abseil to the top of the overlap and take a semi-hanging belay. Climb the crack to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
42 - Big Jem
No length recorded M.Daly, P.McGarrity 14 Sept '96 Start 5m left of Sidewinder (See below). Abseil to a small ledge at low tide and take a semi-hanging belay. Climb the crack to the overlap and short corner. Surmount this and continue to the top. The route may also be started as for Sidewinder. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
43a - Sidewinder
No length recorded M.Daly, O.O'Regan 6 June '96 On the Binatoke west wall, near where it reaches the open sea, there is a belay ledge accessible by abseil. A number of routes start from here. It is situated approx. 20m along the wall from the open sea. A flat granite terrace yellow with lichen distinguishes the top. The ledge is tidal but is accessible for long periods in calm water. From the ledge described above, climb up and gain a horizontal break that runs for 10m below the overlap. Follow this leftward and continue beyond the break for 4m by a hard move. Good friend protection all the way under the overlap. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
43b - Taz
No length recorded C. Torrans, C. Sheridan June 97 This route takes the deep crack line a few metes right of Sidewinder,
Abseil to a small stance at the
lip of the roof, climb the crack to the top.
View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
43c - An Seabhach **
No length recorded C. Sheridan , C. Torrans June 97 An excellent little route with good edges and a perfect crack. Abseil
to a small stance above the
overhang and climb the crack to the top View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
44 - After Thought
No length recorded P.Breen, S.McMullan 16 June '96 From the ledge climb up and slightly left to gain a shallow corner and crack system. Follow this to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
45 - Love Torpedo
No length recorded S.McMullan, M.Daly Sept '96 Start on the sea level ledge of After Thought step up and right to good ledges below the overlap. Climb the overlap (crux) with poor small wire protection. A wet crash mat is not too far away however. Using the left hand square cut layaway and the thin right hand crack gain the top of the pillar. Difficulty disappears and it's ledges all the way to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
46 - Easy Cranking
No length recorded M.Daly (Solo) 22 Sept '96 At the seaward end of this wall there is a short wall stepped back 5m from the main wall. The route climbs a line in the centre of the wall. Climb the wall on large jugs to the base of a short corner. Exit up this. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||