Name: Glencolmcille Climbfest
Start: 2025-05-02T08:00:00+00:00
End: 2025-05-05T17:00:00+00:00

Editor: King Mintiagh (Barnanmore)
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Crag Profile: King Mintiagh (Barnanmore)
Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes
Barnanmore (King Mintiagh) - A/. Ballymoney Line. B/. Jackdaw Chimney. C/. Mayfly. D/. Crocolile Rock. E/. Sabre Cut. F/. Sabre Rattler. G/. Aeolius. H/. Arctic Fox.
Directions: This is a pleasant little Dolerite Plug about 9.5 K East of Buncrana, on the northern footslopes of Slieve Snacht. The routes are mostly in the easier grades, and some care is needed with loose rock. Follow the Buncrana/Carndonagh Mountain road until the "Plug" becomes visible on the road's southside. Limited parking available at a gateway opposite the crag, which is a 10-ish minute walk up the hill. OS Grid Reference: C393410 Click here to view location in Google Maps

NORTH SIDE Furthest left faces, as seen when facing crag. Routes left to right.

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1 - Tepee Groove S 4a Length: 10m N. McLaughlin and C. McLaughlin 26th March 2004 This takes a right slanting groove on the third short wall to the left of rocky outcrop of 'Baby Stew'. The climb can be gained by various starts. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
2 - Arrow S 3c Length: 10m C.Mclaughlin and N. McLaughlin 26th March 2004 To the left of the rocky outcrop where baby Stew is there are three short walls. This route takes the prominant cantral crack on the 2nd of these short walls. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
3 - Baby Stew VD 3c Length: 8m S Hamilton, R Groves (5/78) Centre of the closest small out crop to the left of the main crag. a strenuous finger climb following small but adequate holds to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

The most obvious feature on the North Side is Jackdaw Gully and these climbs are up inside it.

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4 - Ballymoney Line S 4a Length: 8m M.Manson, A.Tees. This route follows the obvious crack about 2m left of Irene's Chimney View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
5 - Irene's Chimney D - Length: 8m Alan & Irene Tees 1975 Straightforward chimney at the back of Jackdaw Gully. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
6 - Jackdaw Chimney * S 4a Length: 15m A Tees, R J Lee (6/76) Climb the prominent chimney at the base of the gully past the nest to a grassy ledge. Step across the gap at the chimney's top and traverse right to the end of a cramped and exposed ledge and up to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
7 - Jackdaw Chimney Direct * HVS 5a Length: 15m P Chatterley, D Campbell and party (23/8/80) The chimney is capped on its right by a series of overhangs. Climb these direct until a move towards the right-hand edge on small holds gives good hand jamming and bridging in the final crack. (Crux). Continue to the top, the belay is well back. The climb is well protected. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

The next climbs are right of Jackdaw Gully

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8 - Mayfly S 4a Length: 20m S Hamilton, A Tees (5/77) Start: At the bottom of the crag about 8m right of Jackdaw Chimney. Climb up on good holds to stand on the top of a spike (about half-way up). Pull up past a heather filled niche (crux) and pick your route to the top. . View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
9 - Crocodile Rock D - Length: 18m D Reid, A Tees (5/78) This follows a prominent rough edge about 6m right of Mayfly. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

A short wall can be seen up above a grassy slope

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10 - Polar Pat S 4a Length: 10m Alan Tees, Peter Cooper 29/09/07 This takes the right hand side of the slab, bounded on its right by the short "Sabrecut" chimney. Move left above crux, and finish to the highest point. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
11 - Sabre Cut S Length: 6m NWMC (Early 1980s) Takes the deep off-width at the top and to the right of the Tear Drop Buttress. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

Back down and right

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12 - Arctic Fox S 4a Length: 15m Alan Tees, Peter Cooper, 28/08/07 On the right hand side of the grassy bay bounded on the left by "Crocodile Rock" and on the right by "KIng Minch" is a wide crack, which is gained from a ledge, and then up left on good holds. Move up the crack, and step out left and climb delightfully to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

There are 2 climbs on the short wall above 'Artic Fox'.

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13 - Sabre Rattler * HVS 5a Length: 8m P.Cooper & A. Tees 29/09/07 4m right of 'Sabre Cut' and 3M left of 'Aeolius'. Start below and right of an overlap, climb up and then step left; once above overlap. Finish up short left-facing shallow corner. Short and exposed, gear a little lacking (Rps/small wires needed). View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
14 - Aeolius VS 5b Length: 7m P.Cooper & A. Tees 30/08/07 Climb the crackline r. of centre, finishing directly above it. Good sport on excellent, but short, rock. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
15 - King Minch * VD Length: 20m A Tees, D Reid (5/78) About 1Om right of Crocodile Rock locate large cracks at the base of crag and climb them to a ledge. Traverse left to edge and move up in footholds to heather and up to base of more cracks. Climb these and finish with a leftward trending crack in the back wall. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
16 - Crazy Paving * VS 4c Length: 12m T McKenna, FMcCloskey (14/11/93) Between 'King Minch' and 'O'Doherty's Keep' there is a steep south facing cracked wall. The route follows the face between the crack and arete. Climb finishes over'V' shaped groove at the top. Poor protection with small holds. Descent on right down an awkward gully. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
17 - O'Doherty's Keep VD Length: 15m S Hamilton, A Tees (7/77) Follow the wide crack on the right of 'Crazy paving', just around the corner from King Minch (to its right). An awkward move near the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

Next routes are across a gully to the right where a short steep wall can be identified by a pair of left-facing corners.

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18 - Flaky Pastry VS 4c Length: 10m M McGinty, Z Stephenson (8/8/00) This route takes an obvious offwidth crack (?)on the left-hand side of the rock outcrop. From an awkward stance, climb the off-width into the corner and then up the wall to finish. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
19 - Choux VS 5a Length: 9m Peter Cooper (un-seconded) 19/08/07 On the r. of 'Flaky Pastry' are a corner and then a groove/shallow corner. The groove is climbed to an overlap, aim for rock spike. Whilst short, the rock is good; gear ends just below crux. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

Next route is approx. 10M right of Flaky Pastry and Choux, directly behind a large pointed boulder.

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20 - Monty VD Length: 10m NWMC (Early 1980s) Directly behind a large pointed boulder, awkwardly climb the wall to a ledge; go left and then easily up the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
21 - Sionalnn's Groove VD Length: 8m C & N McLaughlin (15/8/98) 3 metres to the right of `Monty' is a visible groove. Start at the right hand edge, traverse left into the groove, which is climbed on good handholds and bridging. Locate a high jug and gain the overlap. Exit to top through the V slot. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
22 - Dee's Edge VD Length: 8m N & C McLaughlin (15/8/98) Start as for `Sionainn's Groove' and climb the edge to the top, without using holds on `Sionainn's Groove' or the slab on the right. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

The next route is located on an outcrop down the hill, approx 4 mins walk.

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23 - Hangover Blues HS 4b Length: 12m T. McKenna, F. McCloskey (14/11/93) Climb a diagonal crack with a chockstone at 3/4 height, on the left portion of the bottom outcrop; 1M right of a separating gully. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

The next routes are around the back of summit plug ("opposite side of the hill"), on very good rock.

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24 - Pulp Fiction VD Length: 8m M. McLucas, S. Hamilton (3/97) This route takes the corner of the short steep capped wall at the extreme left hand edge of the wall, to exit left of overhang. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
25 - Monkey Nuts * * VS 5b Length: 9m P.Cooper (unseconded) 29/09/07 The crack-line direct, without deviation. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
26 - Spanking the Monkey HS 4b Length: 8m M McLucas, S Hamilton (8/97) Just right of'Pulp Fiction' climb broken crack until it thins out after large obvious foothold. Step right onto arete to finish. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route

The next routes are situated at the far right hand side of the buttress, before a gully.

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27 - Natural Blonde S 4b Length: 7m P.Cooper & A. Tees 19/09/07 A direct start below the, now dug-out, crack of 'Blonde Accesory' gives pleasant enough climbing. This climb doesn't replace 'BA', just gives a more natural clean line. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
28 - Blonde Accessory S 3c Length: 7m M McLucas, S Hamilton (8/97) At the extreme right of the wall, climb to a grassy ledge at halfway, step left, and finish up crack. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route