Editor: Malin Head (Devil's Bridge Area) | |
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Crag Profile: Malin Head (Devil's Bridge Area) |
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Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes |
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Directions: Approach as for "Sea Area Malin" but walk along a minor path directly west, until you reach the well known, picturesque but modest, "Devil's Bridge". The climbs are mainly on the south facing wall of the next zawn, immediately north. The area has currently been made 'out of bounds' to all by the absentee landlords OS Grid Reference: C383590 Click here to view location in Google Maps |
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00 - Northern Bites: Trevor's Vow
Length: 6m Alfie Conn and Trevor Hartley 6 November 2011 A few metres to the West of the V and near sea level is a sloping ledge. From the left end of this ledge climb beside a left/right trending off width to a large chockstone and the top View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
01 - Minor Oversight
VD -Length: 10m A.Tees, Pete Smith 04 Two thirds along the south facing wall of the zawn just north of Hells Hole (just beyond a black dyke)is a V shaped niche or alcove. Abseil down to the sea, and climb the back corner crack, up the ramp on the RHS of the "V". View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
00aa - Jellyfish
Length: 10m Alfie Conn and John Niven 17/6/2012 A few metres to the West of the V and near sea level is a large sloping ledge. Descend below this to the rock pinacle. Roughly half way along the wall is a short crack. Go up this to a ledge and then up the ridiculously sharp flakes. A pathetic route used to escape after the leader showed a lack of backbone! View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
00a - Guiness Gives You Strength
Length: 12m Trevor Hartley and Alfie Conn 12/5/12 A few metres to the West of the V and near sea level is a large sloping ledge. Descend below this to the rock pinacle. At the Eastern end of this a toe of rock descends into the sea and there is a short crack above that. Make a few moves over this crack and onto a ledge. Above this is a slightly overhanging chimney full of spikes. Up this to the top. If the tide is high or the sea too rough for the start, it is easy to traverse from the large sloping ledge to the bottom of the chimney View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
02 - Seabird
Length: 10m Pete Smith, July 04 Takes the crack just over a metre to the right of "Oversight". View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
03 - Andy's Route
HS 4aLength: 10m Andy Tees, Alan Tees July 04 Climbs the pillar forming the left hand side of the "V"on good rock. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
04 - Car Door
Length: 17m P.Cooper & B.Wingham 07/04 In the area called Tyrolean Zawn and 1M r. of 'Sea Bird', when tide is low. Start below a shallow niche and climb directly up the slab, gear a bit spaced. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
05 - Tyrolean Dyke
Length: 17m P.Cooper & G.Thomas 31/08/08 In the Tyrolean Zawn a steep black dyke of rock can be seen on the r. of 'Sea Bird' and 'Car Door' climbs; at left end of the main face.The line climbs up the r.hand side, with a step left to finish at the top. Not finished direct as my tired little fingers found that this Tyrolean Dyke got quite moist at the finish!Beware of occasional crumbling holds and gear placements on this and particularly on climbs to the r.of this. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
- Lay off the chips
Length: 10m Trevor Hartley 15/7/2012 At the eastern end of the zawn and at sea level is a small pinnacle. This is split from the main cliff by an off width crack. Startbelow the crack on the seaward side. Layback until your body fits into the slot. Then grunt to the top. The grade is diet dependant as well as limpets/barnacle growth. Protection depends on the wedged flotsam.Accessable at low tide. This was not seconded as neap tide was coming in and had to rig an abseil from top of cliff to rescue a crag fast leader! View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
06 - Stormy Days
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E2 5cLength: 12m D.Millar & P.Cooper, May 2006 At the eastern most end of the Hells Hole Area/Zawn (GR383590) a right facing open book corner exists at the base of a sloping ramp. Stormy Days climbs the steep right facing corner right of this half way up the sloping ramp. Belay on abseil rope and cams in horizontal crack at base of corner. Climb corner, to top, sustained. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
7 - Bat out of Hell
Length: 10m Columba McLaughlin and Margaret Quinn April 2015 In the Zawn on the Western side of the Devil's Bridge, abseil
down the South Western corner of the Bridge. There is a very
noticeable aréte. Climb this. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
8 - Stairway to Heaven
Length: 20m Columba McLaughlin and Margaret Quinn April 2015 At lowest tide, start at a point lower than Bat out of Hell. Easily
traverse diagonally upwards and under the southern wall of the Bridge.
Climb the the south-eastern corner of the bridge. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
- Traverse Of The Prods
Length: 40m Alfie Conn and Trevor Hartley 15/7/2012 On the southern side of the zawn a ramp leads down to the sea opposite the V shaped inset. Start at the bottom ish of this ramp and traverse East. Follow the obvious hand traverse around the corner. The rest is mainly a scramble best undertaken in a gale for maximum exposure. Go around another easier but often damp corner and so to a flat rock stuck in a loose easy angled chimney. Go up the wall right of this. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||