Editor: Malin Head (Uncle Monty's) | |
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Crag Profile: Malin Head (Uncle Monty's) |
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Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes |
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Directions: Approach as for Sea Area Malin, parking by Breasty Bay. Follow pathway in front of the angular bungalow, then head towards 'The Devil's Bridge' but veer west (left) along the rocks; aiming towards a small isle off the tip of the penninsular to an area of short clean walls. You'll either be standing on the top of the crag or looking back at the faces, easy to miss on your 1st visit. Narrow Zawn is located immediately on its north side. Access is subject to permission from the Landowner John Ward. email john@headland.ie OS Grid Reference: C38195884 Click here to view location in Google Maps |
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1 - Mort
Length: 12m B.Wingham & P.Cooper 15/08/2004 Starting over on the left climb an arcing line up a nick in the top, to the left of where the crag starts to rise to its high pt. An oddly alpine feel to it (?). View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
2 - Malin
Length: 11m Bill, Pete or Alan 07/2004 A direct line, starting directly beneath, up to the v-notch of 'Mort'. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
3 - Extracting Teeth
Length: 11m Bill, Pete or Alan 07/2004 Starting from the left go across until you meet a clean face with a shallow step on its left and a arete/deep step to the right. Cllimb up following a natural line. Pleasant. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
4 - Reaper Man
Length: 10m B.Wingham & P.Cooper 18/07/2004 Starting from over on the right follow the corner/deep step right of 'Extracting..' and left of 'Rusty Nail'.This is also on topo, from the 2007 Climbfest, as 'Schoellar', if climbed before it will be ammended; details are 'sketchy'. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
5 - Rusty Nail
D Length: 10m P. Cooper 11/07/2004 From the bottom right of the zawn, left of 'Flies..' step up onto a clean face and follow the right-facing groove/corner.The original route of the crag, done in deck pumps and two pints were used for aid! Never mind ascents in nails what about ascents with ales. Still awaits a 1st sober ascent. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
6 - Flies in Love
Length: 10m Pete Smith Take a line right of the final stepped bit of wall and left of 'Woof..', exiting left of the v-groove. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
7 - Woof Said Gaspod
Length: 10m B.Wingham & P.Cooper 18/07/2004 The face following the right arete, with some fine upper moves. Led on-sight. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
The next routes are now on the steeper face and start 2 - 3M left of the broken back corner of the zawn. Film Buffs may spot one, sad, individual's favourite film via the route naming. |
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8 - Rue the Day
VS 5aLength: 10m 18/07/2004 Left hand end of the steep-side of the zawn. Climb up into right-facing corner then before the top of the corner step out left onto face, finish direct up face. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
9 - Are you the Farmer?
Length: 10m P.Cooper & B.Wingham 18/07/04 Follow the line of 'Rue the Day' to the top of the corner, long-ish reach to finish. Gear thin. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
10 - A Whiter Shade of Withnail
Length: 10m P.Cooper & B.Wingham 10/07/05 3M right of 'Are you the Farmer?'. Straight up the face to a small, projecting, block; then straight-up for easy finishing moves.NOTE: no protection in middle area and a nasty landing awaits if you fluff this one! View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
11 - Here Hare Here
Length: 11m P.Cooper & B.Wingham 10/07/05 The arete of the projecting face to the right of 'A Whiter Shade of Withnail' and left of 'Perfumed Ponce'. Large cam in big horizontal break. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
12 - Perfumed Ponce
Length: 11m P.Cooper & G.Thomas 17/07/2004 On right hand side of projecting buttress/face start below couple of small stepped roofs until go left onto headwall. Follow up feint crack to top. Led on-sight, may be 5b. Nice line. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
13 - Montague H. Withnail
Length: 11m P. Cooper & G. Thomas 17/07/2004 Start in the corner at the right hand end of the buttress/face aim for feint corner but then pull around right for lovely-looking smooth right hand wall (thin). Go up face for small pointed flake (sling) and finish direct. Led on-sight, AIRY. Note, no stepping-off onto ramp to your right; that'd be naughty! View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
| To the right of 'Montague..' are a couple of short protectionless slabs, these have provided some good top-roped fun. |
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14 - Go For Gold
Length: 10m Trevor Hartley and Alfie Conn 5 August 2012 Start at the right side of the butress and on the left edge of the slabs below a small square roof. Climb easily for a few meters. There is cam protection on the left. Take it as it is the last but is sufficient. Climb delicately up the slab to a good jug (if you are shaped like an ape you can make a very long reach for it!) Easily to finish View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
14 - Out in the Heats
Length: 10m Alfie Conn and Trevor Hartley 5 August 2012 Just to the South of the "main" crag is the sea. Just before it are easy angled slabs, with a recessed slab in the middle. On the left side of the recess is a slightly steeper slab with a steeper finishing wall.Climb the slab and the short wall/bulge at the top.Only recorded because we were exploring and did this. However on reflection it would be a good start for a nervous first time leader with bags of protection opportunities.Probably only moderate View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
14 - Shot Putt Corner
Length: 8m Trevor Hartley and Alfie Conn 5 August 2012 On the sea edge walking to or from the "Main crag" is a small overhanging piece of what looks like rotten rock that looks as if someone has fired a shot gun at it. It can be located from above as it is level with where three sea channels meet at the Western end of the first small island you reach when coming from your car.Start below the overhang. Climb to below it and turn it on the right. The rock is solid where it looks rotten but after halfway there is some dubious blocks. Most (if not all) were thrown at the second by the leader on the first ascent View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
