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Editor: Eglish Valley - The Outpost

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Crag Profile: Eglish Valley - The Outpost

Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes

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Eglish Valley: The Outpost

Directions: Obvious seamed crag high up on North side of Eglish Valley

OS Grid Reference: G945888

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49 - Cabin Fever
S 4a
Length: 12m
Alan tees, Pete Smith 20/09/98
At the right hand side of the crag, is an easier angled slab split by a couple of grooves. Follow the grooves and make a delicate transfer to the holds above
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50 - Klondike
S 3c
Length: 20m
A.Tees, P. Smith 20/09/98
20m left of Cabin Fever, locate deep layback type crack system, which is climbed, past ledge, to the top.
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50a - The Hangin Judge
VS 4c
Length: 16m
Martin & Coleen McGuigan 21/07/02
2m right of Klondike,climb cracked ramp to overhang,which is taken on the right. Step back left into corner & up (crux). Flakes on the right lead to top.
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51 - Diedre of the Sorrows
VS 4c
Length: 30m
Alan Tees, Pete Smith 27/04/99
A superb diedre system, srarting from where the crag turns up the grassy ramp towadds the Cabin Fever slab. Probably low in the grade but sustained, with the crux high up.
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52 - Happy Arete
VS 4c
Length: 35m
Al Millar, Donna Ryan 5/07/2000
Takes the arete just left of "Diedre". Start up a vague groove to ledge just left of beginning of"Diedre." Make committing moves up unlikely looking arete until the obvious short crack feature above leads to a ledge. Follow corner/ arete to the top.
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53 - Dingleberry Dan
VS 4b
Length: 30m
A.Tees, Pete Smith 20/09/98
A few metres left of the "Diedre" start at an "M" shaped rock, layback, and step right to a ledge which is traversed right. Steep climbing on good holds leads up left on easier ground to the base of a wall split by a deep groove. Climb this (crux) and continue up series of easier moves to top.
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54 - Postpartum
VS 4c
Length: 30m
Donna Ryan, Al Millar 7/07/2000
Just right of "Desperate Dan McGrew" is an obvious cleaned feature running the height of the crag.. The initial corner becomes a slender ramp, and culminates in a corner and short narrow wall/slab which is split by a crack on it's right margin. The initial corner is the crux.
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55 - Desperate Dan McGrew
HS 4b
Length: 30m
Brian Johnston, A.Tees
Obvious cleaned corner going up the left centre of the crag. Good jugs lead to crux at two thirds height, where a move out right, over a buldge and back left is necessary, before continuing to the top.
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56 - Saloon Girls
HS 4b
Length: 30m
Alan tees, Pete Smith 20/09/98
A bit dirty, but beggars cant be choosers! Towards the left hand side of the crag, locate a shallow corner, which is climbed awkwardly. Continue up crack(with a flaccid penis shaped feature on the right)and surmount pillar with difficulty. Continue up eroded recessed area to the top with a few problems.
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57 - Beautiful Barry's Wrangler Jeans
VS 5a
Length: 35m
Al Millar, Donna Ryan 7/07/2000
This route is on The Bastion, a two tiered buttress a few hundred metres right of the Outpost. This takes the left trending crack feature in the middle of the upper tier. Start up obvious finger crack that leads to the left side of a ledge at 4m. Continue up crack until it peters out, and the feet are forced higher into it (crux)so that a long reach to a good hold on the left can be made. Continue to sloping ledge and follow the crack up to the next ledge. 10 m of broken terrain to the top.
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58 - Wise Owl Soul
E1 5a
Length: 30m
Al Millar, Donna Ryan 7/07/2000
Excellent varied route, also on "The Bastion". Start as for "Beautiful Barry", then from ledge at 4m, traverse left across slab using underclings and make a thin move around onto large sloping ledge.Cross ledge to bottom of obvious fine corner 3m left of "Beautiful Barry". Climb corner with increasing difficulty and finish up vegetated ledges.
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