Name: Glencolmcille Climbfest
Start: 2025-05-02T08:00:00+00:00
End: 2025-05-05T17:00:00+00:00

Editor: Malinbeg (Prawn Zawn)
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Crag Profile: Malinbeg (Prawn Zawn)
Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes

Directions: Lying just to the south of the tower. Prawn Zawn is the deep inlet ending in a cave. The next ten routes lie on the promontory that runs from the island sound along the north side of the zawn. Descent is by abseil down the non-tidal platform at the foot of the promontory from where all the routes are easily reached. The normal abseil line is down the central section. The rock at the top of the zawn is poor and some care is needed to ensure sale abseil anchors. Pegs may be useful. The centre of the main cliff fell in 1988 with the loss of classic routes'Pieces of Eight','John Dory' and'Flotsam'. However, other routes have since been logged in the affected area. OS Grid Reference: G490795 Click here to view location in Google Maps
01 - Below Deck VD - Length: 22m D Walsh, K Byrne (16/4/76) Start: The route takes the arete on the left-hand side (looking from the sea) of the promontory, opposite the island. Follow the line of the rather broken arete to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
02 - Crabp VD - Length: 22m D Mitchell, D Bruce, M Torrans (10/5/75) Start: Left of the smooth blank wall is a shallow gully. Start to the left of this. Climb the initial compact rock to broken rock above. Exit through the gap in the steeper rock above. Loose rock towards the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
03 - Day by the Sea E2 6a Length: 20m N Harkness (25/5/86) This takes the arete immediately right of where Pieces of Eight used to be. Climb the arete on small holds. Using the pod on the right gain a small ledge and resting position. From the ledge continue up the slab to the top. Protection is good but small. This appears to be the same route as "In Memorium Arete" 1988 View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
04 - Dolphin's Dump HS 4b Length: 22m W Poots, D Ferguson (5/4/88 At the bottom of the descent gully into Prawn Zawn there is a prominent corner. This is climbed for 3m, then move up to the right staying parallel with Jetsam. Continue up on long reaches and finish up a small corner at the top using small holds. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
05 - Dolphins Do, Climbers Don't VS 4b Length: 24m W Poots, D Ferguson (5/4/88) Start as for Dolphin's Dump until a ledge is reached at half height. Using a downward pointing flake in the middle of the face on the left, step down slightly and stretch across to a small foothold. Place protection before continuing up the left on small ledges. Poorly protected. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
06 - Jetsam * HS 4b Length: 22m D Walsh, J Leonard (10/5/75) Start: at the foot of the wide crack on the right-hand side of the central depression. Climb the wide crack and into the groove with the overhanging right wall at the top. Bridge between good holds on the right wall and friction on the left (crux) to the top. Well protected. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
07 - The Gangplank VS 4c Length: 22m P Sloane, P Coakley (15/4/79) . Start: To the right and above Jetsam is an obvious wide groove leading up to an overhang. Climb the groove to reach a small ledge below the overhang. Pull out right through the overhang and into the corner above (crux). Bridge up the corner to a sloping ledge and on easily to the top. . View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
08 - Damien Strikes Back HVS 5a Length: 24m D Woodward, W Poots (11/88) At the left-hand edge of the wall between Gangplank and Vannin is a corner capped by a cracked overhang at 5m. Climb up to the overhang and swing onto the wall on the right. Climb up left of the wall on thin holds. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
09 - Vannin * * VS 4b Length: 22m J McKenzie, J Leonard (16/4/76) The next two routes start in the obvious corner above and to the right of Gangplank. Vannin Takes the steep slab/wall on the left of the corner. Climb up groove trending left to the overlap. Pull up with difficulty using a foothold on the left of the overlap to reach good holds above. Continue up the fault above to the top with one difficult step to the right about half way. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
10 - Gannet's Folly S 3c Length: 16m J Leonard, D Walsh (10/5/75) Start: Takes the steep ramp on the right of the corner and Vannin. Gain some height on the ramp and then using the crack on the right-hand side continue up on good jugs to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
11 - Poop Deck * HS 4a Length: 18m J McKenzie, J Kerr (23/4/76) Start: The route takes the narrow right trending ramp right of Gannet's Folly and above the cave at the back of the zawn. Move up the ramp 4m to where it steepens towards a vertical groove. Up this with difficulty until a good handhold on the right edge can be reached. Continue up groove and easy wall to the top. Protection is available but care is needed as a leader or second fall could result in hanging free over the cave below. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
12 - Red Weed VD - Length: 15m P Coakley M McCormick (4/81) The next two routes are on the opposite side of the zawn from Poop Deck. They are reached by descending easy rock about 75m south of the tower to sea level and traversing into the zawn. Red Weed starts about 10m right of the back of the cave is a shattered wall/buttress. The route reaches this by a stab from sea level and finishes up a groove on the right. A poor route on doubtful rock. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
13 - Seaweed HS 4b Length: 15m M McCormick, P Coakley (4/81) Start: To the right of the slab start of Red Weed is a rib split by a groove. Climb this groove to a black ledge. Move right into overhanging corner containing big spike. Follow this to the top, treating the spike and rock with care. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route