Name: Climbfest 2024
Start: 2024-05-03T00:00:00+00:00
End: 2024-05-06T23:59:59+00:00
Location: Malin Head

Editor: Malinbeg (South End)
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Crag Profile: Malinbeg (South End)
Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes

Directions: From the Tower, and the top of Prawn Zawn, the cliff runs south for about 150m to a large blowhole about 5m back from the cliff edge, and opposite the largest of three rock islands just offshore. The first 100m of this section is broken and uninteresting, the last 5Om forming the area of the crag known as the South End. Immediately south of the broken rock area is a promontory which overlooks an obvious narrow bay area bounded by overhangs and a large slabby area on the north side. The first four routes are in this area, and most easily reached by an abseil to a large ledge above a pool to the south of the promontory, or by scrambling with care down a steep rib on the west side of the promontory. The first three routes start from this ledge and are described from left to right looking from below. OS Grid Reference: G490795 Click here to view location in Google Maps
01 - Lemon Solo VD - Length: 30m J Leonard, D Walsh (11/5/76) Start: At the right-hand end of the ledge above the long narrow pool. Climb the steep slab veering slightly left at first on small but good holds until just beside the top left-hand corner of the obvious bay (surrounded by overhangs on the right) and traverse left to climb the top wall at its obvious weakness on the left. Poor protection, small wires useful. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
02 - The Wreck of the Hesperus S 3c Length: 25m D Walsh, J Leonard (11/5/75) Start: Above and to the right of lemon Solo at the bottom of the bay surrounded by overhangs. Climb the obvious line of weakness on the right-hand side of the slab beneath the first overhang on the right. Continue up until a step (sometimes wet) left and down leads to the bottom of an obvious overhanging comer which is climbed by a block and a high jug handle and bridging to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
03 - Skipper Curran's Corner HS 4a Length: 18m J McKenzie, D Blake (5/6/76) Start: The dark and obvious corner below the top overhang above and to the right of The Wreck of the Hesperus. From good ledge belay climb directly up corner groove which arcs at 5m. Make a delicate step to good handholds and continue left to top and belay. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
04 - Castaway S 4a Length: 24m D Walsh, J Leonard (10/5/75) Start: About 15m to the right of Skipper Curran's Corner the obvious cleft on the dark side (north) of the next promontory which can be reached at low water from the bay area. Belay at the foot of the cleft and climb the steep cleft above, bridging between good holds on the right and friction on the left. Excellent protection throughout. Small amount of dubious rock near the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
05 - Ancient Mariner VD - Length: 30m J Leonard, G Barrett (8/5/79) The next three routes are located on another obvious promontory to the south of Castaway. There is a deep overhanging corner immediately south of the promontory followed by a large slab which runs as far as the cave running into the blowhole. This slab contains a further three routes. Ancient Mariner starts with an abseil down the rib of the promontory to some large blocks. Traverse left across the bottom of the promontory slabs for about 10m to reach a higher ledge below the slab above. The route takes a line from here to finish on the north side of the promontory a few metres from Castaway, by following a small corner crack on the left side. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
06 - Shark Back VD - Length: 23m B Proctor, S R Young (31/3/75) Abseil down as for Ancient Mariner. The route follows a line up the slabs on the south side of the promontory. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
07 - Shark's Fin S - Length: 23m S R Young, B Proctor (31/3/75) Start: Abseil down as for Ancient Mariner. Traverse slightly right round the corner and belay at the black band. Descend and cross below the black band overhang and onto the smooth slab. Step onto the right edge and follow this to finish up some dark rock. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
08 - Rig Jig S - Length: 23m S R Young, B Proctor (31/3/75) The edge described above overhangs the slab on which are the next three routes. Rig Jig to Start: Abseil down to good ledge just above high water at the right-hand side of the slab. Stakes may be needed for abseil anchor. From the belay traverse left to the centre of the slab. Climb directly to the top via the bulging smooth section at mid-height. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
09 - Keel VD - Length: 23m B Proctor, S R Young (31/3/75) Start: Abseil down as for Rig Jig. From'the belay follow the obvious crack line near the right-hand edge of the slab. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
10 - PugwashÃ¢â‚¬Â¢ VD - Length: 24m M Curran, D Loughrey (27/5/75) Start: Abseil descent as for Rig Jig. Climb the tilted groove to the right of the belay to the right edge of the slab. Follow this edge, which overhangs the cave and gives fine positions, to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
11 - Topper HS 4b Length: 40m J Hume, D Hanna (6/4/86) The following four routes all start from the ledge on Rig Jig which is reached by abseil. Topper, Traverse left from Rig Jig to the base of a chimney. Bridge up the chimney to 4m before an overhang, climb rightwards and up onto the slab for 3m. Swing right onto obvious overhanging block on good holds. Pull round left and climb left on rust-coloured rock to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
12 - Z Z Top S 4a Length: 40m D Hanna, B Mallon, M McRoberts (7/4/86) Climb down slightly onto a fault line. Follow this up and left for 15m to where it ends. Climb the overlap veering right for 10m to a good stance. Follow a leftwardtrending crack to complete. Finish at loose rock at the left-hand corner of the slab. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
13 - Lazy, Hazy, Crazy Sunshine Days VD - Length: 35m B Mallon, D Hanna, M McRoberts (7.4.86) Climb up as for Keel. Where the crack widens, trend right, follow the slab up left for 5m. Exit easily straight up. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
14 - Over the Top VS Length: 35m B Mallon, D Hanna (7/4/86) From the belay, climb the outside edge of the rightwardtrending ramp. From the right-hand corner of the ramp step back right onto a ledge above a cave. Step right and surmount overhangs on good holds. Go into small recesses and step right awkwardly and climb the bulge with difficulty (crux). Continue up and exit left. If the cliff is followed from the South End in the direction of the harbour, there is a long finger of land pointing south and forming a long narrow inlet. There are a number of possibilities for long easy routes on the walls and crest of this rib. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route