Editor: Port Bay | |
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Crag Profile: Port Bay |
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Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes |
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Directions: These routes lie on a sea-stack in the breathtakingly beautiful Port Bay. It lies two miles North-west of Glencolumbkille. Just follow the rough track down to the coast and parking place. Descent to sea-level is quite easy, and numerous small sea-stacks exist. Berg Stack is easily visible from the beach, lying a few hundred yards around to the left. The stack can be identified by the two steep grooves on its North side. Follow the coast path over two bridges and descend a small grass and rock ramp to sea-level. The stack can be accessed at low tide by walking across boulders. Two pitons were placed at the top for abseil in 1988, but the second should beware of loose pebbles. OS Grid Reference: G546882 Click here to view location in Google Maps |
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01 - Mayday, Mayday
Length: 20m P Clerkin, P Clerkin (2/5/88)
Start at the crack line about 8m from the left edge of the wall. Follow the fault line to a peapod over a loose bulge, and finish up a chimney.
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02 - Davy Jones' Nose
Length: 20m P Clerkin, P Clerkin (8/5/88) Start below an obvious nose in the centre of the wall, 3m right of Mayday Mayday. Climb over the nose to a ledge at half height. Follow San Andreas (see below) for 2m until horizontal blocks are reached. Climb over these to the top.
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03 - San Andreas
Length: 25m P Clerkin, P Clerkin (5/5/88) Start 2m left of America. Stagger obviously up a fault line left across the main face and finish up a vertical chimney to the top (as for Mayday, Mayday).
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04 - America West Coast
Length: 25m P Clerkin, P Clerkin (15/5/88) Start as for Cormorant but follow the obvious fault line to a horizontal break at half height. Go over a broken wall to a ledge, step left and finish up to the top.
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05 - America Direct
Length: 21m P Clerkin, P Clerkin (2/5/88) Start as for America West Coast, but follow the line of weakness between West and East Coast directly to a ledge, and finish up the centre of the smooth face of America.
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06 - America East Coast
Length: 20m P Clerkin, P Clerkin (2/5/88) Start 3m left of right-hand corner and follow fault line up east coast of America.
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07 - Cormorant
Length: 22m P Clerkin, P Clerkin (8/5/88) Start as for America but follow a large crack line trending right to a ledge at half height. Step left onto
the wall and follow the first crack line directly to the top. Be careful of the flake at two-thirds height.
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08 - Dequesa Santa Anna
Length: 25m P Clerkin, P Clerkin (8/5/88) Start 1.5m from the right-hand edge, and follow parallel crack lines to the top. Crux at two-thirds height.
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09 - The Girona
Length: 21m P Clerkin, P Clerkin (8/5/88) Start at the right-hand edge of the wall. Follow a leftward-trending crack past a hedgehog-shaped plant to the top. Crux at two-thirds height. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
10 - The Wedge
Length: 20m S R Young, J Leonard (21/4/73) From the platform, ascend the groove on good holds to a ledge. Continue up past the lichen section left to the top.
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11 - Armada
Length: 21m P Clerkin, P Clerkin (15/5/88) Start 1 m right of The Wedge, the second and smaller obvious corner. Climb over a series of sharp blocks to about 3m and then step awkwardly up into the corner and bridge up to the top.
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12 - Mahogany Gaspipe
Length: 35m C Roberts, J Spain (11/9/90) The following routes are on the lower main half of the Main Wall. So far no-one has tried the second pitch through loose rock to the top of the cliff.
Mahogany Gaspipe, Start 1 m left of the right-hand end of the Main Wall. Climb straight up on good holds with increasing exposure until arrival at belay/abseil pegs.
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13 - Neo-Maxi-Zoomed-Weebie
Length: 35m M.McMahon, M.McConnell (11/90) Start 8m left of the right-hand end of the Main Wall. Climb straight through the overhang with little difficulty and continue up a steep wall with increasing exposure until arrival at belay/abseil pegs (one good peg, one very suspect bong) View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
14A - Shortcut To Mushrooms
Length: 35m M McMahon, M McConnell (11/90) Start near the left hand edge of the Main Wall where the small overhang which runs across the main face ends. Climb the left-hand side of the overhang and continue up the steep wall with increasing exposure to the belay/abseil pegs. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
15 - Teetering on the Tottering
Length: 35m M McMahon, A Beavis (1991) Mid-way along the wall containing 'Shortcut To Mushrooms' etc, there is a series of overhangs. Climb up beneath these until you arrive beneath a large grey block. Turn overhang on the right (crux) and continue up wall to the abseil point as for 'Shortcut To Mushrooms" View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
16 - Gully of the Gods. (An Port)
Length: 180m I. Miller, C. Gleeson 17/08/09 Grid Reference G546896. On the headland facing the monsterous landward face of Toralaydan Island, there sits a gully running full cliff height. The gully is the only way down the surrounding cliffs to access the island and is a very serious undertaking. Climbed from sea level in pitches of 20, 45, 45, 50, 20 metres to the cliff tops using excavated boulders as belays. The location and atmosphere are considerable! :-) Gully marked with a very discrete summit cairn. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route |