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Editor: Horn Head

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Crag Profile: Horn Head

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Horn Head

Directions: This is a sea cliff situated about 4km from the village of Dunfanaghy in northern Donegal. It extends for about 2km and varies in height from 30m to 200m. It is made up mainly of horizontally bedded quartzite of varying ` quality, with sections of loose blocks being common. Rock of very good ' quality also exists, however, with the climbing being on very steep rock with good jugs, but there isn't too much of this. To get there, get onto the main road which forms a circuit around Horn Head. Take the first left off this circuit, and follow this road to its end on the western side of the peninsula. Parking is available beside the road near a small gravel quarry The following routes are found in the marble arch ' area, which can be found by going down a farm track and across fields for about five minutes. The area forms a cove with the arch on one side and three small promontories at the other

OS Grid Reference: B989405

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01 - Demolition Man
S -
Length: 30m
S MacGearailt (Summer 89)
Climb the obvious chimney and corner above the arch. The abseil approach is probably the crux.
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02 - Redundancy Blues
S -
Length: 40m
P Breen (Summer 89)
Climb the face and cracks right of Demolition Man.
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03 - Arch Rival
HVS 5a
Length: 60m
P Breen, T O'Brien (Summer 89)
Approach by abseil: 1) Climb the obvious chimney to a large ledge. 2) Climb the steep obvious cracks above to the overhang which is climbed using a good hold. Continue to the belay ledge. 3) Move left and then up the crack on dubious rock.
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04 - Face Value
VS 4c
Length: 40m
T O'Brien, P Breen (Summer 89)
Scramble down the descent gully, and then make a short abseil to a non-tidal ledge. 1) Climb up and left to a large ledge and belay. 2) Climb the overhang, and continue more easily to the top.
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05 - Chance Encounter
VD -
Length: 24m
P Breen (Summer 89)
The left-hand arete of the descent gully.
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06 - North Coast Ramble
VD -
Length: 24m
T O'Brien (Summer 89)
The right-hand arete of the descent gully.
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07 - Carcass Caravan
HVS 5a
Length: 43m
S MacGearailt, J O'Reilly (Summer 89)
Approach by the descent gully on the right. 1) An easy diagonal leftward traverse leads to a large belay ledge in a leftward-facing corner. 2) Continue diagonally leftwards to a crack line below the overhang. Strenuous moves lead to a corner and chimney cutting through the overhang to a large terrace. 3) An obvious crack leads to the top.
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08 - Hang Loose
VS 4c
Length: 30m
T O'Brien, P Breen (Summer 89)
Climb the corners on the left of the first pillar. Easy, but steep and exposed. Move left under the overhang.
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09 - Ocean City
HS 4a
Length: 30m
S MacGearailt, J O'Reilly (Summer 89)
Ocean City 30m HS.4a The left-hand arete of the first pillar. Again easy but exposed.
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10 - Helmet Head
VS 4b
Length: 20m
J O'Reilly, S MacGearailt (Summer 89)
Just to the right of the gully splitting the front of the first pillar is where you'll find the starting blocks for this one. Climb up the wall on large projecting flakes.
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11 - First Erection
VS 4b
Length: 20m
T O'Brien, P Breen (Summer 89)
Climb the arete right of Helmet Head.
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12 - Bed and Breakfast
S -
Length: 12m
T O'Brien (Summer 89)
An easy route up the right-hand side of the third pillar.
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12 - Bed and Breakfast
S -
Length: 12m
T O'Brien (Summer 89)
An easy route up the right-hand side of the third pillar.
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13 - Fudging the Issue
E1 5b
Length: 12m
S MacGearailt, J O'Reilly (Summer 89)
A short yellow overhanging wall to the right of Bed and Breakfast. Climb the steep wall on widely spread flat holds.
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14 - Phone-call from Fairhead
S -
Length: 15m
T O'Brien (Summer 89)
Climb the quartz groove on the right-hand side of the second pillar.
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15 - Letter from America
HVS 5a
Length: 16m
S MacGearailt, J O'Reilly (Summer 89)
This takes the steep wall on the left side of the third pillar, with an intricate line through the square-cut overhangs. Start at the sharp crack and approach the first overhang from the right. Move left at the second overhang and then finish up the wall.
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16 - Parting Shot
HS 4b
Length: 18m
S MacGearailt (Summer 89)
Start at the base of the third pillar and trend leftwards across the steep wall to the corner.
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