Name: Glencolmcille Climbfest
Start: 2025-05-02T08:00:00+00:00
End: 2025-05-05T17:00:00+00:00

Editor: Horn Head
What would you like to do today?
Add a route to this crag	Add an inter-route note to this crag
Delete routes on this crag	Update the order of routes on this crag
Edit the details of this crag	Return to the editor homepage

Crag Profile: Horn Head
Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes
Horn Head
Directions: This is a sea cliff situated about 4km from the village of Dunfanaghy in northern Donegal. It extends for about 2km and varies in height from 30m to 200m. It is made up mainly of horizontally bedded quartzite of varying ` quality, with sections of loose blocks being common. Rock of very good ' quality also exists, however, with the climbing being on very steep rock with good jugs, but there isn't too much of this. To get there, get onto the main road which forms a circuit around Horn Head. Take the first left off this circuit, and follow this road to its end on the western side of the peninsula. Parking is available beside the road near a small gravel quarry The following routes are found in the marble arch ' area, which can be found by going down a farm track and across fields for about five minutes. The area forms a cove with the arch on one side and three small promontories at the other OS Grid Reference: B989405 Click here to view location in Google Maps
01 - Demolition Man S - Length: 30m S MacGearailt (Summer 89) Climb the obvious chimney and corner above the arch. The abseil approach is probably the crux. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
02 - Redundancy Blues S - Length: 40m P Breen (Summer 89) Climb the face and cracks right of Demolition Man. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
03 - Arch Rival HVS 5a Length: 60m P Breen, T O'Brien (Summer 89) Approach by abseil: 1) Climb the obvious chimney to a large ledge. 2) Climb the steep obvious cracks above to the overhang which is climbed using a good hold. Continue to the belay ledge. 3) Move left and then up the crack on dubious rock. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
04 - Face Value VS 4c Length: 40m T O'Brien, P Breen (Summer 89) Scramble down the descent gully, and then make a short abseil to a non-tidal ledge. 1) Climb up and left to a large ledge and belay. 2) Climb the overhang, and continue more easily to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
05 - Chance Encounter VD - Length: 24m P Breen (Summer 89) The left-hand arete of the descent gully. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
06 - North Coast Ramble VD - Length: 24m T O'Brien (Summer 89) The right-hand arete of the descent gully. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
07 - Carcass Caravan HVS 5a Length: 43m S MacGearailt, J O'Reilly (Summer 89) Approach by the descent gully on the right. 1) An easy diagonal leftward traverse leads to a large belay ledge in a leftward-facing corner. 2) Continue diagonally leftwards to a crack line below the overhang. Strenuous moves lead to a corner and chimney cutting through the overhang to a large terrace. 3) An obvious crack leads to the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
08 - Hang Loose VS 4c Length: 30m T O'Brien, P Breen (Summer 89) Climb the corners on the left of the first pillar. Easy, but steep and exposed. Move left under the overhang. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
09 - Ocean City HS 4a Length: 30m S MacGearailt, J O'Reilly (Summer 89) Ocean City 30m HS.4a The left-hand arete of the first pillar. Again easy but exposed. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
10 - Helmet Head VS 4b Length: 20m J O'Reilly, S MacGearailt (Summer 89) Just to the right of the gully splitting the front of the first pillar is where you'll find the starting blocks for this one. Climb up the wall on large projecting flakes. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
11 - First Erection VS 4b Length: 20m T O'Brien, P Breen (Summer 89) Climb the arete right of Helmet Head. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
12 - Bed and Breakfast S - Length: 12m T O'Brien (Summer 89) An easy route up the right-hand side of the third pillar. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
12 - Bed and Breakfast S - Length: 12m T O'Brien (Summer 89) An easy route up the right-hand side of the third pillar. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
13 - Fudging the Issue E1 5b Length: 12m S MacGearailt, J O'Reilly (Summer 89) A short yellow overhanging wall to the right of Bed and Breakfast. Climb the steep wall on widely spread flat holds. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
14 - Phone-call from Fairhead S - Length: 15m T O'Brien (Summer 89) Climb the quartz groove on the right-hand side of the second pillar. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
15 - Letter from America HVS 5a Length: 16m S MacGearailt, J O'Reilly (Summer 89) This takes the steep wall on the left side of the third pillar, with an intricate line through the square-cut overhangs. Start at the sharp crack and approach the first overhang from the right. Move left at the second overhang and then finish up the wall. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route
16 - Parting Shot HS 4b Length: 18m S MacGearailt (Summer 89) Start at the base of the third pillar and trend leftwards across the steep wall to the corner. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route