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Editor: Carrigan Head (Black Rock)

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Crag Profile: Carrigan Head (Black Rock)

Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes

Directions: 800 metres to the South East, is the huge overhanging, and not immediately inviting, crag facing towards Sail Rock. Descend the grassy promontory below the overhanging Black Rock to the start of the slabs. From here either abseil down to sea level or scramble down the slabs and traverse round at sea level back into the zawn to the north of the promontory. The first three routes do not seem to have had a second ascent so descriptions should be treated liberally.

OS Grid Reference: 565750

01 - Book Mark
VS -
Length: 36m
S R Young, B Davies (8/75)
Start: This route takes the obvious corner on the cliff opposite the slabs, opposite the boulder filled zawn. From the brown stained ledge gain the wide crack in the corner and climb strenuously with some loose rock and vegetation, though good protection. Belay to boulders well back at the top.
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02 - Tir na nOg
VS -
Length: 40m
J McKenzie, D Mitchell (7/73)

Start: On the steep impressive dark wall of rock right of Book Mark, between the closed of the zawn and the slabs.

  1. 25m Climb straight up on small holds for 10m. Make an awkward move right, then back left to rib. Climb this to belay.
  2. 15m. Surmount bulging wall above with difficulty. Move into obvious groove and climb this to the top.


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03 - Mind Minder
VS -
Length: 54m
S R Young, B Davies (8/75)

VS (2 aid points) Start: On the same wall as Tir na nOg from the boulders on the floor of the zawn.

  1. 30m. From the boulders gain the steep wall and climb directly up to a `False large pinnacle thing" and belay.
  2. 24m Move up towards the right until the overhangs are reached. Move up into the break using two nuts for aid and continue on steep loose rock to belay on the grassy descent promontory.


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04 - Slab 1
VD -
Length: 25m
S R Young, B Proctor (16/3/75)
Climbs the left hand-side of the slab, at its junction with the steep wall.
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05 - Slab 2
D -
Length: 25m
B Proctor, S R Young (16/3/75)
This line follows a friction line up the slab roughly midway between Slab 1 and Slab 3.
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06 - Slab 3
D -
Length: 25m
Young, 8 Proctor (16/3/75)
Takes the easiest line up the centre of the slab.
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