Editor: Umfin Island | |
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Crag Profile: Umfin Island |
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Details of the crag can be reviewed below. Editing links are present on all routes and inter-route notes |
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Directions: Rocky Island North of Gola. OS Grid Reference: B766284 Click here to view location in Google Maps |
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15 - Applecross Cracks
Length: 10m Alan Tees, Valli Schafer 19/06/2010 Cross the big square sea arch on the west of the island and descend westward on ledges, coming back round to the left on a non tidal ledge, leading into a corner. There is a step on the ledge, and twin cracks directly above. Climb these to almost the top, step right and climb the crack in this higher section of wall on good holds and gear. Delightful, and easier than it looks. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
17 - Navajo
Length: 10m Dave Millar & Martin Bonner June 2010 This route takes the obvious crack on the wall left of the sea arch.
Approach via abseil to ledge. Climb the crack tetterring on the left
side of the sea arch. Note this route is located by walking from the
Buckateer wall to the south facing sea arch . View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
16 - Fernenst the Foam
Length: 15m Alan Tees, Valli Schafer 19/06/2010 Right of "Applecross Cracks" the ledge terminates in a corner. Climb onto the arete just right of this, cross a narrow ledge and surmount a couple of steps, before a fine exposed exit onto the top. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
01 - Buckateer
Length: 20m A Anderson, C Bull, G Huxter (27/07/97) Buckateer Wall
Route takes leftwards flying crack in overhanging wall. Start in the centre of the wall and then follow a
prominent crack to where it veers leftwards on overhanging ground. Swing wildly on jams and buckets, reaching left to finish.
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02 - Harbinger
Length: 20m K Pyke, G Huxter (27/07/97) Takes the next crack left
of 'Buckateer. Boulder start and steep moves allow an overhanging groove to be reached more easily at 11 m. Finish up this directly in a good position.
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03 - Tierdrops
Length: 20m A Anderson, K Pyke, G Huxter (28/07/97) To the right of'Buckateer'there is a three tier wall with crack systems. This route takes the central line.
A powerful reach gains the first ledge. Painful jams the next. Continue steeply up the black cracks in the final tier.
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04 - Splush Wall
Length: 15m K Pyke, A Anderson, G Huxter (28/07/97) Takes the east-facing wall forming the corner of the Buckateer area. Starts to the left corner chimney. Climb up and left to the centre of the wall. Move in fine positions and on good holds to finish up this directly. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
05 - Curach Crack
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HVS 5aLength: 25m C. Bull, A. Anderson (29/07/97) Superb! Takes the arete/crackling to the right of the arch (facing in).Start on the ledge beneath the arete. Follow the wide cracks in the arete until it moves onto the wall. Then directly up the wall on easier ground to finish.
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06 - Diminishing Returns
Length: 20m K Pyke, C: Bull, A. Anderson (29/07/97) Start at the right end of the face bordered by large ledges.Follow the first thin crackline directly, moving left on face holds at the top.
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06 - Diminishing Returns
Length: 20m K Pyke, C: Bull, A. Anderson (29/07/97) Start at the right end of the face bordered by large ledges.Follow the first thin crackline directly, moving left on face holds at the top.
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07 - Hurrican Dan
Length: 25m G. Kirk, G Huxter (01/08/97) Storm Wall (right of Buckateer- When facing in)
"Hurrican Dan" Climbs the right fork of the bifurcating crack in the middle of the wall. Climb the steep crack for 6m to where it splits. Take the right fork up to the roof. Climb directly over the roof and ground above to finish.
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08 - Mungo Park's Missed Opportunity
Length: 25m G Huxter (unseconded) (29/07/97) Action Zawn (right of Storm Wall facing in)
In the middle of the wall, there is a prominent crack/groove line. This route takes a crack and steep wall immediately left of this.
Mungo Park's Missed Opportunity
E4/6. 6a with rests.
(Was not returned to for clean ascent due to bad weather).Ciimb easily up to a small overhang, pull through this and then continue strenuously up the crack. Leave this and continue directly up te steep wall via horizontal breaks to the top. Very steep and powerful climbing.
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09 - Saved from the Gall
Length: 12m F McCloskey, S Carlin (6/08/97) Climbs the leftward trending crackling on the seaward wall (left of 'Carlins Corner')
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10 - Bridge over Troubled Waters
Length: 10m F McCloskey, S Carlin (6/08/97) The most westerly'V' groove before descents and ledges.
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11 - Tooce Mwaih
Length: 10m F McCloskey, P Lemoine (5/09/98) Carma Pholl ATseideain
The First inlet north of the main wall. Both routes here are described as short but good.
Tooce Mwaih,climbs the main crack and flakes on the north wall, opposite `Spot'. Easier than it looks.
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12 - Arete Patrick
Length: 10m F.McCloskey, P.Lemoine 5/09/98 Climb the wall and arete left of'Tooce Mwaith'. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
13 - Spot
Length: 15m F McCloskey, P Lernoine (5/09/98) This is on the South wall, opposite the two routes above. Start on ledge, on left end of this wall, well above the sea.Traverse right to wet crack. move right at overhang (crux) or climb the flared offwidth overhang. Exposed but safe.The lower half of this route could be added to, but would be a lot harder. View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
14 - Cogadh na gCarad
Length: 10m F McCloskey, P Lemoine (5/09/98) First corner crack East of An Straighre Dubh (descent). Up corner to ledge. Avoid juggy overhang by moving slightly right (crux) or climb overhang direct at 5c? View Route Edit Route Upload a new photo for this route | |||
15 - Fold Mhona
Length: 10m P Lemoine. F.McCloskey;5/09/98) Abseil down west face of walls south of Camas Pholl a tSeidean. Climb the stepped corner midway along. Crux at top.
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