Route Number: 590

Back to Crag Editor page | Back to Guidebook Editor page

Never Never Land * * *

Location: Muckross Head
Grade: E6  6b
Length: 20m
First ascent: P Dunlop (5/93)
Route Description:
A stupendous line involving some powerful and fingery moves. Start in the short corner 5m right of Fear of Feathers. Climb the corner using flake on the left. Move right and up to undercut beneath the first roof (good No.1 friend). Make a long reach and swing out to traverse right to the next big groove (good Friends). An awkward rest can be had at the groove by sitting on the ledge. Using the jammed block, pull up and then traverse left on finger holds to the triangular point of the roof (very good 2 and 2.5 Friends at this point). Now hanging in space, sequence the overhanging wall above. Crux to top.

Comments

Pete - 03/08/2010
First Peter, now Rodders! Does anyone else want to prostrate themselves before the great god Dunlop? Perhaps you'd like to give it 4 stars O Exalted One? Are you sure 4 is enough My Lord? Shall we go for 5 Your Worshipfulness?

Pete - 02/08/2010
Rodders, if you say 3 stars, then I say 3 stars. Just wanted to be sure that our illustrious guidebook maestro wasn't caving in to pressure from the Dunlop lad.

Rodders - 02/08/2010
Hi Pete. I can't say if its 3 stars or not as I haven't climbed this. Only the ascensionists can comment on the difficulty/quality and the only people known to have been on this have confirmed the grade and quality. I'll stick my knock out here and say Paul knows a wee bit more about 3 star E6s than the rest of us in these parts!

Peter Cooper - 02/08/2010
Paul Dunlop bullied me into it! No, actually Paul presented a good case for the line and I think, as you note, Paul would know more about these things than most of us; I cetainly didn't take it to be ego on Paul's part.

Rodders - 01/08/2010
Thanks or the vote of confidence pete but you've more chance of doing this than me! I believe Si moore and a bunch of sheffield "rock stars" confirmed the grade and quality of this mega route...

Peter Cooper - 29/07/2010
It says stupendous and its an E6, happy to go with Paul's suggestion...unless you know better!

Pete - 29/07/2010
What is this? Hero-worship? We need independent opinion from the repeat-ascensionists. Rodders.....??

Paul Dunlop - 28/07/2010
this must be 3 stars!

Leave a Comment You must be logged in to leave a comment