Route Number: 950

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Fiddler's Green * * *

Location: Malinbeg (Main West Wall)
Grade: HVS 5a
Length: 27m

First ascent: D Walsh, D Webster (20/5/78)

Route Description:

Start: The route takes the wide ramp about 3m right of Flying Enterprise. Gain the ramp at 7m by some , strenuous moves and follow it easily right to the base of a short overhanging corner. Climb this (crux) to gain the sloping ledge on the right. Continue more easily to the top.

george taking a leak! - Note wet patch on slab below.

Comments

Peter Cooper - 18/08/2010
I thought I'd share Dave Walsh's recollection of this line with you (from an e-mail March 2010, contacted him as part of guidebook research), Peter. "It was an obvious mainface line and it was the object of effort from McKenzie, Billane, Torrans, everyone, but it was me cracked it. That never happened to me before or after. Every new route I ever put up in 20 years new-routing was the result of having the enthusiasm to suss out new stuff, week by week, month by month and year on year, as well as the eye for a good line. Never before or after Fiddlers Green was it the case that I was or did "better" than others. Also, my pet dog Rowsby Woof, a Jack Russell puppy of 12 weeks, drowned after a fall into the harbour area, while I was climbing, the news brought to me while I was mid-crux, which gave the name."

Anthony Feeney - 30/03/2009
The pic shows me on Clipper E2 5c. Fiddler's Green follows the obvious line of ramps just above, with a difficult finish on the shadowed block.

George Carleton - 29/03/2009
Led this route on Saturday. Its a brilliant climb offering interesting climbing on the crux where the gear is a little sparse.